patrickd79

Hey all. Thanks for the responses. As you can see I am no mechanic and have only mentioned what I can see. So, from what I have described, no internal damage to the engine then? Yep, wrong time of year. I will give them a call tomorrow and see what happens.

Hi all. I bought the car back in September. Had all the maintenance done that it required etc etc. Part of the work done included new belts as they hadnt ever been done. Yesterday two out of three belts came off. I checked the belts, they all have the same markings on them, so either they were all replaced or none of them were. My receipts states that they were. Extent of damage thus far is not known apart from what I can see. Belt for the alternator is gone Belt for the thermo fan is also gone When the belt for the fan came off, the fan came loose, sheared off from everything. In doing so it has sliced at least one radiator hose and taken out the radiator completely. The last belt is still on. To the best of my knowledge this all took place in my driveway when moving the car. So damage may be minimal? I have no idea. Given that I have an invoice to the tune of $1500 that included new belts, they should last a lot longer than six or seven thousand km's. So who is at fault here? Belts are supposed to be good for around the 100k mark, maybe a tad less depending on car and application. There is a fair chunk of work here and I genuinely dont see how any of this up and coming repair bill is mine in any way shape or form. If this were your problem, how would you go about it? Obviously i have to contact my mechanic and tell him whats happened at some point and see how they feel about it. What are your thoughts? What would you do?

True

Hi all. I'm looking at the fuel options open to me and I am interested in E85. With my '99' Stag, can I just pour it into the tank and let the ecu adjust the timing and just drive away? Some say you need to do more than this, keep in mind I'm not after extra power, nor do I drive the car hard, its completely stock, The fuel is simply a lot cheaper than 98. I have read about guys running it stock no problem and others going all out chasing power. So tell me guys, as a stock car driven in a sedate fashion, can I do this?

Thanks guys. The car is driving well, it's going in for all the maintenance required next week so then it will pur. Not that it doesn't already. Very happy with my choice. Oh yes, the passenger seat works just fine so hoping it is just a loose wire.

Hi all. Bought my first Stag on the weekend. Thanks to rb26stagea for recommending me a mechanic, they did a great job. So its a '99' Rs4 S in manual trim. Black leather seats, bodykit of some description with 118,000kms on the clock. It's not perfect, it has rust on the doors, its in need of a bloody good service and so far, the most annoying thing is my seat. Its electric and doesn't work. Someone know how to fix this or work the problem? Oh, rb26stagea, the mechanic recommended I speak to you when I asked in regards to rust removal from the doors..... So someone I can take the car to in regards to my electric seat not functioning? Forgot to mention it cost me $7000. Bargain.

Hi all. I'm looking at buying a '99' RS4 S manual. I need someone to go over the car for me and do a thorough check of the car for me. I'm no mechanic and my guy is what you would call a 'garden variety' mechanic. Taking it to him will be a waste of time and money. So I need you guys to recommend someone. I live on the Gold Coast. So to the members that live on the Goldy, is there someone you recommend? Someone that knows these cars very well indeed and knows what to check and what to look for. Someone you guys respect and trust with your Stagea. On that note, it doesnt have to be a mechaic with workshop etc. If one of the members knows their stuff and is happy to do it, then thats ok too. Naturally their will be financial compensation for the individuals time and expertise. Thanks in advance.

Hi all. I'm buying a Series 2 R33. I want an auto so I can go down the clutchless manual path. The car typically comes with the 4 speed auto, i.e 3 speed with overdrive. Now I dont want to be flicking an overdrive button on and off all the time, it will drive me nuts so I have been hunting around to see what else is available and have found the JR507E. This one is a five speed. I am still having trouble even finding out about this one so I will assume it is a 4 speed with overdrive. Does anyone know much about it or better yet used one? Was it any good? Will it make for a good clutchless manual? I'd keep the 4 speed that the car has so long as I can make the overdrive the 4th 'shift' as I have no interest in pressing a button all the time/at all. If they're a good option where the hell do I get one? Thanks in advance.

Hi all. I'm giving serious thought to buying a Series 2 R33 auto. I'm wanting to buy one because I have always loved the thought of owning a clutchless manual. So a stage 3 shift kit etc to do this however a few questions first. The auto that they come with is a 4 speed, from what I have read really a 3 speed with overdrive. If I go for the stage 3 shift kit then I will have to constantly flick the overdrive button on and off. This will drive me mad. Is it possible to make the fourth shift the overdrive? If not is there another automatic transmission that I can use instead that has more than 3 gears? I have read that there is a five speed, can it be had? Is it possible to add a fourth gear to the transmission? Turning overdrive on and off all the time will drive me bonkers but I'd just love a nice strong clutchless manual instead of the five speed. All help and advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

This is where I need to know more about it. I'm sold on the clutchless manual - I love the idea, however as mentioned I dont want to have to shift forward to change from 1st --> 2nd --> 3rd etc. So in my series 2 R33 what changes do I need to make so that I'm shifting down? Just changing the valve bodies? Someone please explain. Someone also mentioned whether or not you can remove the overdrive button and make it a 4th shift....can this be done? Lastly, I have read that the shifts can be brutal. Are the shifts nice and smooth or does the transmission go bang when you change? I did watch the video and didnt hear anything like that. Great video by the way. *edit* I forgot. Can you buy like an aftermarket LED that I could mount on the dash or something where it shows what gear I am currently in? I'm thinking along these lines because I dont want the bulky casing that the ratchet shifter sports. I'd be going with a nice leather boot surrounding the shifter.

Hi all. I'm giving serious thought to doing a V8 conversion on my Series 1 R33 GTS-T. I have found a VH41DE with low mileage but its been sitting for about two years. I'm thinking a rebuild would be a good idea so I know the exact condition of it but also need to know what work/modifications need to be carried out to fit it into the car etc. What sort of power can I get from it n/a and what sort of power can I get from it with a centrifugal s/c? Also better tell me what sort of cost I am looking at for parts etc. Can I mate my RB25DET gearbox to it? Please help out here guys or point me to someone who has 'been there, done that' Big thanks in advance.

What are the condition of the plastic headlight cases? Same for the door trims and steering wheel. I need a centre console lid as the spring in mine is knackered. Drivers mirror - glass only, mine is chipped. Send me some pics please. [email protected] Thanks!

Fantastic car mate. Hope it goes to a really good home. Has to be the best S13 Ive seen.

What condition is it in? Any proof of how many kms it has done?

Unfortunately mine are absolutely horrible. Badly cracked. I will need replacements. Anyone got any that have no cracks for a '93' R33?

At some stage I would like to do a full engine rebuild for my R33. This forum is proving to be a great place to get parts new/used at good prices. What I thought I would do is over time buy all the parts off this website and maybe a few others and then take them to my mechanic and have him build it for me. Now I have seen that the rb25/30 is very popular and I'm thinking I might as well go forged for that extra strength and reliability. Now I'm not a mechanic and have very little knowledge on cars so I'm hoping you can all tell me the sort of stuff I should be looking out for on here. I.e, what type of pistons, crank shaft, cams, bearing etc I should use/hunt for. Should I hunt for a particular type of head and block etc etc. Now I know that an engine build can range from 5 grand to 20+ given the quality of the stuff you use and the power you want from it. I'd be more than happy with a bullet proof engine giving me 200 rwkw that has boost come on nice and early. So I'd like to hear from you telling me what the sort of things I should be looking out for. Big thanks in advance people.

Sorry, internet connection playing up and posting twice. My bad

Like a number of other people I am very confused as to what I should buy. 17x8.5 +20 offset. Street use only. Looking for a tyre that will offer very good wet/dry handling and stopping distance. Something with really good tyre wear. Max $400 per tyre. Hit me up with a couple of different types please. Big thanks in advance.

Great thread guys. I think I'll get some of these FK451's for my R33. It needs a new set of rubber and new rims too! Will 17x8.5 with +20 offset fit front and rear? What width tyre should I fit? Will I have any dramas fitting them to the car? Thanks in advance guys!

Great thread. Can someone tell me if 17x8.5 with +20 offset will go on a '93' R33? I'm looking at Otomoto rims. Thanks.

Have you gotten the engine running and done compression tests? I'm buying an R33. The engine in it has only done 130,000 kms and still really strong however a forged motor and reinforced gearbox wouldn't go astray. Do you have any history on the rebuild? Still in touch with the person you got it off? I need some details. Also....where are you? I'm in Brisbane.

Grow up Cameron. Most of your phone call attempts were during the day whilst I was at work. When you did ring it was close to midnight and you were hiding your phone ID. If you want to sell your car you must be genuine. No one expects a car of this age to be perfect and certainly not at that price. The mechanic uncovered heaps of problems that your mates at Bridgestone Mt Barker said did not exist. You have been extremely aggressive and abusive torwards me eversince I wanted the car checked by an independant mechanic. Put the car on carsales. Some fool will come along and buy it without having it checked. You could have your mates at Bridgestone Mt Barker to help there again. If I receive anymore phone calls or messages from you Cameron I will take the matter up with the police and file a charge of harrassment. I think the moderators should close this thread.

Hey mate, I'm chasing some parts: 1. shock absorbers and bump stops front and rear if they are in really good nick - mine are damaged and leaking 2. I also need a bonnet cable handle - mine is broken 3. Boot struts - mine no longer hold up the boot when you open it. 4. Rocker cover gasket - if you have a new one lying around. If the parts are in really good condition let me know please.

Hey, I'm chasing some parts for my car. I need: 1. Bonnet Cable handle - mine is broken 2. Boot struts - they no longer hold up the boot when fully open. 3. Unused rocker cover gasket - if you have one. 4. Front exhaust heat shield - mine is rusting out. Thanks dude!

I'm wanting to buy a set of Otomoto rims for my '93' R33 Skyline. The rims in question are 17x8.5, 5x114.3 with +20 offset. Now I cant try them on because the rims are in Sydney and I'm in Brisbane. Will they fit under the guards front and rear? Unfortunately this is the only size available in the 5 stud pattern. If anyone has fitted wheels this wide under the front and rear without any issues I'd like to know. Thanks in advance.