BOOZTJUNKEY

thanks heaps mate i have been doing that so hopefully it does bleed its self also my temp is still sitting around 90degrees i was hoping that was because of an air pocket but if it does bleed the air and my temp is still the same yoiu reckon its worth geting it pressure flushed i have not had one done before and dont really no what is involed...

just did an 40 mm ally rad in my car and have not bled the air cause the the bleed screw is fubared is there another way to bleed the air???

BUMP

CAS = crank angle sensor its on your timing belt cover

After a stock 32 wheel just the 3 spoke one with the the skyline s in good condition no rips or cracks would be great just wanna keep it standard contact me here or on 0412918227

i have set mine up with the the hose from the manifold going into the the plenum side breather and that one still goes into the exaust side so the hose of that goes to the catch can then the return goes to the intake if you ran the hose straight from the plenum into the intake pipe and then the two breathers straight into the catch can would they need an extra breather on the catch can with a little filter to stop the can pressureising i was under the impression the hose from the plenum into the breathers forced possistive pressure through the breathers forcing the oil into the intake??? is this correct

mine has hicas probs aswell i have replace my ecu and put new fluid in to aid the problem but still happens i thinks its my steering angle sensor because it start happening just after a aftremarket wheel was fitted let me no how you go as i would be interested no if that has caused my issues

only if you plan on tuneing it yourself and the right program and a dyno in your shed lol otherwise your tuner should have there own

should be one of the two sizes above are you using a sparkplug spanner or deep socket or just a nomal socket ????

Yeah ally rad is on the cards but for now i just want it sitting where it should be also i have just made a stainless radiator overflow identicle to the ones you would get from autobarn etc now what i would like to no is how exactly the standard one is setup to work i have noticed that overflow bottles tend to be higher than the rad are they gravity fed or do they run of pressure built up in the radiator at high temps and suck from the bottle the overflow bottle i have made is desined to sit next to the rad instead of beside the battery with the feed going in at the bottom aswell as the overflow the over flow is an 8mm piece of stainless cut 20mm shorter then the length of the actuall catch tank which has been welded to the inside of the tank so if it starts to fill up it will not over fill now because of the way these are set there obviuosly not gonna work if the standard bottle works of gravity so thats y i ask the question do they suck or gravity feed??? thanks can post pictures if required

non turbo coilpacks are not the same as turbo ones but as mentioned above look on ebay and will list them

thanks for the responses guys i suspected it was a lil high i priced a full flush and radiator clean with new fluid $150 which i feel is fair but wanna go ally rad first i think has anyone had any bad results with them (eg dodgey product ) what sort temp difference am i looking at with one i no its minimul but none the less i still would like one also anyone that has one and wants to share there positive feedback feel free

its just normal driving conditions under load i will see just over 100 as well mainly i just wanted to see if thats the right temp range for it my thermostat was dodgey and was never really stable as for my stock gague when my cltutch fan ceased the temp went past 120 degrees and it didnt even move ... what temp will it read hot because mine has never moved past just under half

just curious to see what your water temp is guys i have just flushed the system put a new thermostat in and ran new fluids through it.. the car sits around 90 degrees which i think is a lil high because the thermostat is a 79 degree one the old thermostat was 65 degree one which must off been aftermarket because i have not been able to source the same one so i went with the standard what temp should i be getting or is this ok ?? also what type coolant do you use ?? i am using nulon red long life premix does any one no what the recomended coolant to run is like product number or code??? Thanks

i changed the ecu for another one i just got and it has come good im stoked thanks heaps for your help... Cheers Bejay

alright i just put a manual ecu in and the problem is still there but its a lot less noticble althought i think it has something to do with the aggresive ness of the timing of the mines ecu does anyone no if the knock sensors can be cleaned or something

its like when you go past redline the car continues to rev but the power starts to drop off and with this comesa the boost creep its like the timing is being retarded i tried putting just an\ auto ecu but it wouldn start my car and i dont no why unless there is a neutral switch that has to be bridged but being a factory manual you would think it wouldn have one???

the clutch was done a month before i got the car its and excedy cushion button clutch also does not explain the error code dont get me wrong the clutch sliping could be a posibility but normally with clutch slip your revs will go up because the engine cannont transfer power thru the box to the wheels

i just went for a drive car is still the same i diagnosed it again and i got code 34 witch is the knock sensor i no what it is but dont no where it is or how to fix and could this be my problem

i changed the ecu with the auto one now i have power and reds on thr dash but car kranks but wont start now i think it might have something to do with neutral switch does anyone no where to bridge this or what is stopping it from starting??? also i have had a thought that when the clutch fan ceased could it have caused some error code not sure which one but maybe this is what causeing my timing retarding i have since reset it and diagnosed it so hopefuly it comes good

im gonna change the ecu and see if that does anything. The new ecu i have is an auto one. now i no you can run a manual box behind a factory auto and bridge the neutral/drive switch telling the ecu its in park not drive but will there be anything on a factory manual loom that will need to be tinkerd with to run auto ecu behind a factory manual car or will it be plug and play?? this is only to see if my current ecu is working or wheather thats the problem Thanks

yeah its booked in i just would have liked to have been able to deal with the issue myself but oh well will update shortly thanks

After a r32 hicas four wheels steer ecu its located in the boot if somone can help me out that would be great Pm me please Thanks Bejays

please delete i have found one above THANKS

yeah it feels like that but i dont no why it just started happening if the CAS(crank angle sensor) is faulty or somehow loose do you think it would cause my timing issues making the turbo boost creep i have also found a decent exauhst leak from the flanges the cat bolts to under load it would leak a fair bit is it possible there could be some sort of pressure loss or drop causing the boostcreep and timing retarding