BOOZTJUNKEY

Ok sweet that's what I needed to no Thanks heaps mate

Ok guys finally for motivated and welded the holes in the boot of the 32 and now I need to do my gtr are Bonnet These are my options and I'll explain why Option one is to tig the holes up before anyone says anything yes I'm a qualified sheety and I know how to weld ally The only thing is I've never welded any that thin it looks to be about .7mm thick and for any one that knows ally knows that at the rate that ally heats up it won't take much to warp the shit outta my bonnet Now my idea is to put a backing plate behind the holes and to get a nicer finish on the inside I also am thinking of getting some preety solid Dolly's an brass blocks to put around the weld area to soak some of the heat due to the tig welding and te amount of heat i will putting in there hopefully aiding in preventing distortion . Any one welded one before or the Same thickness or thinner material ? Other option is to sikaflex a plate on the isinde and fill them with filler but Is a lil dodgey Any help appreciated Cheers Bejay

If it's coming out while driving aswell it could be Rings Valve seals Or turbo seals How much oils in the car it could be over full

As mention it could be ate seeeeing angle sensor have u got and aftermarket wheel? Also could be the hicas rack or hicas control unit Do a search and look for the hicas diagnostics thread

Oh yeah well just go with genuine then

Go with the Ross balancer kits mate google them a lil exy but good quality parts

It was got the front housing not the rear

Usually when you get to machined surface clamped together they will seal when clamped mate I would assume that it's the same thing with the Garret turbos . The old v6 commos vn to be serries 2 never ran exaust mani gaskets because they were two machined surfaces so they sealed well enOugh with the right clamp pressure . And Blake it wa done by one of the boys at mtq as an after hours thing hahahah so I'd say that's why the seal didn't get replaced an when I rotated the housing it just fudged up on me lol

The standard one maybe Blake but this is a highflow turbo and it's definetly low quality gasket paper cause it fell to bits hahahah but I have a spare turbo here so I might see if the factory steel one fits the highflow Cheers for the input

Hit the nail on the head mate I swapped the starter in my 32 in a few hours mate think outside the box a lil and u will get it out :-)

It's not an Rubber o ring as such it's a ring but it's proper gasket papery stuff hahahah And discopotato I can get them from mtq but I don't get much time to go that way so I was just swing if I could use what I had instead of going there but thanks either way lads

Thanks mate will keep that in mind

Sweet mate I thought that would be the case. I assume there would be a lot of excess weping in the housing when h clamp down So thanks for ya response :-)

Ok so I had to rotate my comp housing on my turbo the other day and noticed the seal ( the one that seals the comp housing to the core ) is buggered is it safe to use silastic or a form a gasket goo type substance ? Any feedback appreciated

Spoton at slacks creek

What is the compression like on the engine ? With the same mods I made just over 190rwkw so yeah there is definetly a restriction or low compression there

What is the compression like on the engine ? With the same mods I made just over 190rwkw so yeah there is definetly a restriction or low compression there

Not sure about that but if it's on turn the car off straight away and get it towed till u know why it's on if u see that light and keep driving id say u won't get far

^^^ I thought that with the compression aswell u really want them within 10 increments of eachother

Don't trust the gague if u haven't had a warning light ( oil pressure light ) and u are not losing oil car drives fine then ur right mate Also put an aftermarket gague on it and keep an eye on it ! ;-)

I'm a lil confused I read that as your trying to take the motor out of ur car? But leave the gearbox in the car ? And the box is still bolted to the block? Well if that's the case u need to unbolt the box before u can seperate the two There isn't really a trick if everything is UNDONE then they should separate might be a bit of jiggling and pulling lol but they will come hahaha Why don't u just take the box out with the engine it would be a alot easier to unbolt the box outta the car Also its not easy to bolt a box up under a car! It's real fiddly and without a hoist can be a reason to go postal lol

Leaky valve stem seal I would think . Also clean out ur piping and intercooler to be safe either way . I doubt ur hicas is causing The smoke . Check all ur vac lines on te plenum side is ur stick gague still working ? It's common for the hoses to perish

As above my old trusty window kelvinator aircon has just done a fan blade (snapped one off) so now it's unbalanced and wobling to the shit house hahahah Any one know where I could get a new fan from? I was gunna pull of the cover and just snap the opposite side of to balance it but if I have to take if apart I'd rather just put a new blade on it Although it is Old one I don't wanna turf it cause it did the job fine so I would like to keep it ? Any ideas? The model number is KR18LG Any help much appreciated :-)

Fuel doctor ! I personally swear buy the shit hahahaha but yeah wouldn't bother with anything else like redline and nulon offer Thinners and acetone also work ;-)

Mate best way to make a heat shield I've found . and looks absoloutely mint Although ur missus might not thinks so Roughly measure your turbine housing Take a walk into your kitchen grab out ur stainless Steel saucepans Find the one closest to the size u need try and not let the Misso see u hahahahah Take it to ur shed an and cut it in half ( obviously using the side that doesn't have the handle on it ;-) ) Mark ur bolt holes drill to suit And ur away :-)