Socrates

Series 1 C210 GT-EX Coupe

Oil pressure gets higher as you rev faster, happens on my car.

I like that car, i want a coupe but need to find one in perth. 2700km away, damn Nice looking still as well, doesn't look like too much rust

Thanks for quick reply. I found this just now: link Is that correct? Would you know if 25W/60 oil too thick for engine? and what brand of oil do you currently use? Thanks again

Thanks for the help Gaspard Appreciated

Can you find a Model Code off your car? as that can be entered first then the rest of the VIN can be added. Cause that's how it worked to find out all the details for my R30. Socrates.

I put model code in first then the rest of the VIN July 1983 Can the japanese be copied into google translate?

A couple of things to clarify What's the S mean?, i did some research and i think it means sedan = 4 door is that right? Also is it a L20E or L20ET? cause L20T doesn't exist. Or if anyone could help me find spec details of a R30 GTX would be helpful. Thanks

Regarding checking everything, The plan is to check my valve clearances and adjust at next service with my mechanic friend (NA_Goodness). In my L24 tappet noise/click thread, MAG86 and Daewoo explain how to do valve clearances so i'm set with that. Ignition Timing is all good, was checked approx 1 month ago. Only thing i don't know about is cam timing, I'll see if my mechanic knows anything about it. I'm going to with 25W-60 oil for next service to minimise blowby as well as topping up gearbox oil (suspect it's low). and also which of the following should i use? Engine Oil Flush Just before oil change. (I've heard the liqui moly equivalent is better, anyone agree?) Long Term Engine Treatment With New Oil. Worn Engine TreatmentWith New oil. Lifter Free and Tune-Up With New Oil. Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment Add to existing oil in gearbox only not diff. Will the bottom 3 work together without any problems? after all that i plan to use Total Fuel System Cleaner to clean out the fuel system. Other things include add oil to spare diff and swap in and new fuel filter. I think I have covered all i want to do so far.

So FAST doesn't like Australian built R31's or is there another number I can get off the car?

Surging is like bursts of power, instead of all the power going on at once, it has small bursts of power and slowly accelerates until approx 3000rpm where it gains more power and accelerates rapidly.

Could someone with experience run these two for me? I tried myself but could only get the R30 to come up with the model code. The second one is HR30 Thanks

Thanks for the advice mate really appreciated. Got the carby tuned and it's running sweet now, just when it's cold(engine) and say driven for 5min and choke comes off it goes down to ~500rpm and tries to stall. On the other hand I've found it has more power now as well, possibly a mix of extractors and good tuning. Regarding previous problems, Fumes - My Jap spec stovetop tail lights weren't sealed properly and when a window was opened it vacuumed the fumes from the rear outside the car through the gaps into the cabin. All siliconed up and no more smells. Extractor hissing - Been back to exhaust place, they say the extractors aren't leaking but the car still makes a hissing/muffled tapping sound when under load. Exhaust place says come back after the valve clearances have been reset and a service has been done. Heat riser - Not needed Surging - Carburettor tuning fixed majority of that, very rarely surges unless I'm in too high of a gear. That's what I'm at now, I will keep you all updated on this

Go to an auto place like, Supercheap, Repco and have a look in the oil catalogues for your car and it will tell you. there is also this: Nulon Gearbox Treatment Never used it, but I'm told it's good. Best to change oil first and then add the treatment with the new oil. Castrol website: R33 GT25T: CASTROL VMX-M 75W/85 2.8L Capacity

Place Called carburettor specialists, who said that he sees it all the time when extractors are put on and continued to explain how the fuel needs heat to become a mist to burn otherwise it will surge and etc. This is the place that quoted me $620 for carburettor rebuild/overhaul, ~$360overhaul, $110 choke pull off (broken), rest labour.

OK i see, just droveto tafe now, cold start. Drove absolutely shit, press accelerator and it coughs and chokes then starts to rev up, when normally it would only do it once or twice. Is there anything else i can get to heat the fuel without using a heat riser?

Thanks for info What do you mean by not right? I know it's currently running rich and is real slow accelerating in the mornings and blows smoke occasionally. Is that what you mean?

Alright i got exhaust done today extractors, 2inch, resonator (hotdog), flow through muffler. $790 installed Now my problems: Extractors leaking and making hissing sound under load + fumes in car. = will take back to shop to get rectified Heat riser, i was told that my car needs a heat riser, to warm up the fuel in the carby before it gets into the engine so it can burn better. Exhaust shop can't make a heat riser from the extractors. I can feel the engine surging when I put my foot all the way down, when it didn't before. Is this something that can be fixed with a tune or will I have to either rig something to heat the fuel or just put back the old exhaust manifold? I am planning to get carburettor overhauled and the choke pull of fixed which currently is stuck closed, until the heat opens it (which now i'm worrying about cause there's no heat riser so it's going to take longer to open and it's going to drive like crap for longer) any help appreciated

Alright i got exhaust done today extractors, 2inch, resonator (hotdog), flow through muffler. $790 installed Now my problems: Extractors leaking and making hissing sound under load + fumes in car. = will take back to shop to get rectified Heat riser, i was told that my car needs a heat riser, to warm up the fuel in the carby before it gets into the engine so it can burn better. Exhaust shop can't make a heat riser from the extractors. I can feel the engine surging when I put my foot all the way down, when it didn't before. Is this something that can be fixed with a tune or will I have to either rig something to heat the fuel or just put back the old exhaust manifold? I am planning to get carburettor overhauled and the choke pull of fixed which currently is stuck closed, until the heat opens it (which now i'm worrying about cause there's no heat riser so it's going to take longer to open and it's going to drive like crap for longer) any help appreciated

Nice to know you're switched on with what your name means, some people have no clue.

Nikolaos aye you greek brackground? sorry for off topic.

hey, is it kind of clicking sound like tappets?

are C110 bonnets that different to C210 bonnets?

isnt the consult cable used for such? as well as diagnostics?

numbers 1 and 2 are no longer valid. Revised options are as follows: 1: Extractors,2.25" piping, resonator, lukey sports exhaust, 2.5" turndown tip. = $1120 2. Extractors ($660 installed), existing 1.75" piping, new resonator, muffler(~$250) + 2.5" turndown tip (~$40). = ~$950 3. Existing manifold, existing 1.75" piping, new resonator, muffler(~$250) + 2.5" turndown tip (~$40)= ~$290 That's my options. I want number 1, but don't want to spend that much so I'm fine with number 2, BUT will it bottleneck at the entrance to 1.75" piping?