GTR32

Guys; be careful spending your money. the only way you'll know the baseline performance of any shock/spring is to put it on a shock dyno and run the thing up to check high/low damping speed (that's shock speed not car speed) to see how it performs so you can compare it to others and in particular see if it has any nasty habits. Feel means diddly unless you are setting up suspensions for a living and even then it's not straightforward. Cheers

group buy

I'm thinking of going up, is Jayce entered in a particular thing and if so is that thing happening at a particular time? Tell me it's the car and not him that's entered, any suggestion that he's going as a catwalk model for lightweight carbon-fibre look racing undergarments will keep me well away... Cheers

Hi guys; Anyone looked into these? I've tracked down a couple of brands 'Hyperstimulator' (sounds like something chicks use) and 'Racebase'. Anyone using their own design? I want one for PS2 and GT3 because holding the wheels between my knees and having the pedal box move is giving me the sh#ts. Interested to hear your views.

ATESS/T/A! That's a shocker Jayce. Does that mean if someone drops in and you're busy you might not have time to say Hi Cas!??? Heh Heh Spotted; Me giggling myself stupid at the torched speed camera on Lanyon Drive. Anyone remember when it got spray painted? I laughed for weeks over that. This sucker has now been officially BBQ'd top to bottom so I'm a happy man. Congrats to whoever. YEEEHAAA.

Tonight: Sinista on the way home (plates look damn good on that car). Car has real presence looks balanced/together on the road. PS no doubt you saw the Falken 502 ice skates? Hard to believe they're OK in the dry. Catch ya.

Might be worth trying: Hankook Ventus K104 (not aval in NSW but are in Vic through Donnellan's The Tyremen, go figure...) there are good reports on the forums about these. Sumitomo HTRZ-02 (very underated apparently). Price for 255/40/17 was about 250/320 repectively. Good luck

Hi Ahmed, I've sent you a PM

Prefer 17x 8 or 17x9. All four must be the same. PM a price and we can negotiate, prefer Sydney or Canberra sellers. If the price is right I won't waste your time. Regards

Does anyone know where I can get some Watanabe F8 wheels? Thanks for any input. Regards

XR8eater; I agree with what Sydneykid and GTR Ben said; I'd suggest they are right on the money. And if you are up for it by all means tackle the RB25/26/30 conversion, it's been done successfully before and if you can do the research and harness some experience go for it; however, make sure you understand what it will/won't give you. It all gets down to the usual question of 'what do you want to do with it'. There is a good thread on here re GTR vs GTST 'which is faster for the money you spend on mods' but I think it primarily discusses R32s. Nevertheless it's thought provoking and worth a read. If I'm not mistaken, Sydneykid uses an RB31 DET in an R32 GTST as his weapon of choice on the track. I think that tells us something. ' Just my 2c worth.

XR8eater; I agree with what Sydneykid and GTR Ben said; I'd suggest they are right on the money. And if you are up for it by all means tackle the RB35/26/30 conversion; however, make sure you understand what it will/won't give you. It all gets down to the usual question of 'what do you want to do with it'.

XR8eater; I agree with Sydneykid and GTR Ben said; respectively I'd suggest they are right on the money. And if you are up for it by all means tackle the RB35/26/30 conversion; however, make sure you understand what it will/won't give you. It all gets down to the usual question of 'what do you want to do with it'.

Try the DIY forum or the susp forum, there's a tutorial there. Good luck, there's also a lot of cases of people having a rant because the diagnostic mode procedure is so mental. It's funny seeing the car sit there and twitch it's back wheels from side to side.

Peter at Advan Performance has a thing called Gracer that started out as a GTST I think unless there was a GTS4 33, which I don't think there was. It has a worked to the sh*thouse RB26.

You won't get it to work while the car is stationary unless you put it into diagnostic mode which is not straightforward. It deflects the rear wheels differently above and below 60 km/h as less defelction is required at higher speeds. In a nutshell the idea is to try and induce understeer for safety and for 90% of people it is probably a good idea to keep it connected. What can make the car go mental is the fact that it is controlled by an old tech, slow ecu and if you are balancing oversteer on the throttle it suddeny goes 'oh I know, I'll help now by inducing understeer' with the result that it will turn the rears and reduce the friction level of the contact patch even further, possibly causing a lose. This is the time you go 'stop helping, you sh$t box'. There is a long thread on HICAS on either the handling or forced induction forum. Try an advanced search for HICAS with threads/posts by Sydneykid and you'll get the whole enchilada explanation. Regards

You won't get it to work while the car is stationary unless you put it into diagnostic mode which is not straightforward. It deflects the rear wheels differently above and below 60 km/h as less defelction is required at higher speeds. In a nutshell the idea is to try and induce understeer for safety and for 90% of people it is probably a good idea to keep it connected. There is a long thread on HICAS on either the handling or forced induction forum. Try an advanced search for HICAS with threads/posts by Sydneykid and you'll get the whole enchilada explanation. Regards

Same as standard? You beauty! Thanks Duncan

Thanks Guys, I ended up going to BDL. Dealt with Adam mainly, very happy. Took his time to explain, didn't try to empty my wallet, and happily answered my dumbass questions. Other staff were good also. Modest system, Focal splits in the front and 6x9 Pioneers in the back, sounds good to me though and the car was ready quicker than they suggested. Regards

you might want to try the tyres forum, they are discussed there and seem to get a good mention from SkylineGeoff. Hankook Ventus K104 are also rated well for the price in another thread.

i was thinking along the lines of nitrarse. go on 4ever? that's even more horrible than contemplating the mess the fat dude would make landing.

Guys; I have an R32 GTR with Brembo front calipers (it's not an original V-Spec) and I need a new steel brake line (the one that runs off the caliper and joins the rubber hose at a small junction block). Does anyone know; is it the same/different to the standard line? is it the same/different to an R33 GTR line? is it unique to the R32 V-Spec? is it none of the above? most importantly where I can get one? Thanks for any help Regards

I'm in the same boat, there's a thread on the brakes/susp/handling forum on this. I'm using Ferodo 2500 pads and freshly machined DBA 5000 discs and the thing squeals so badly it's almost impossible to stop at low speed with the window down, particularly when there's some heat in the brakes. The 2500 pads have a rep for being noisy on some forums but this is unacceptable. Like you I simply can't see how they could possibly have been this way new. I've tried stick-on Mintex shims and it made no difference. Tried scuffing the rotors and pads, no change. Slight chamfer on the edges was a waste of time. Have had the edges chamfered heavily and we'll see. Part of the problem could have been the cooking of the discs by the previous owner; they were extremely glazed and so hard they couldn't be machined on a lathe because it chattered itself stupid so they had to be milled. New discs are on the way and so are EBC Greenstuff pads. Will keep you posted. Can I ask what pads you are running? You also mentioned shims, are they the stick on type? I wasn't aware that Brembo pads run with shims of any type. Regards

Andy; I PM'd you a while back but didn't get a reply. Is it sold or still available? Regards

bet he was using a bore liner