GTR32

Hi Ronin; I am seriously contemplating some of these myself. AFAIK there is no data available that compares stock, HKS, CES and Trust on an equal basis and although the Trust appear to be the best design it's difficult to know if their extra cost I justified. I'd would really appreciate it if you'd share your results after fitting them please.

JAG: I've been looking at these also - Advan $1500 in stock Autobarn $1100 2 weeks Jap Motosport $1000 2 weeks all are approx price. I'm very interested to see how they perform. Regards

B&M make good stuff AFAIK. No reason their manual shifter should be otherwise and the price is good. How much it shortens the throw by is important I think NISMO is about 10%, C's about 30 %. You might do even better ordering from one of the US parts warehouses like Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW). I ordered everything I needed for a BB Chrysler build and they were great. Sent me the wrong cam but no questions asked once they verified my order the part was wrong, they sent me another. Most of the bigger Yank outlets take this stuff very seriously so there should be no problem.

B&M make good stuff AFAIK. No reason their manual shifter should be otherwise and the price is good. You might do even better ordering from one of the US parts warehouses like Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW). I ordered everything I needed for a BB Chrysler build and they were great. Sent me the wrong cam but no questions asked once they verified my order the part was wrong, they sent me another. Most of the bigger Yank outlets take this stuff very seriously so there should be no problem.

Gobiz; What do you want the car to do? Street cred/drag/cct race/motorkhana/daily driver or something else altogether?

Bretto; No I didn't notice, I agree that I should / would have. But I suspect that the dyno here is optimistic. Good news is that the problem has been found by the guys working on it. Would you believe the throttle wasn't opening all the way?! Checking for power loss Rule 1: Is the throttle opening fully? I guess neither they nor I believed that it could be the case but...there you go. Latest reading is 168 AWKW at Silverwater on standard boost ie .7 bar and with an exhaust. Doesn't explain the difference in inital readings, but I'm happy to put that down to an optimistic dyno here. Thanks to everyone who responded.

So at Croydon, where it made 139 awkw you were also running 11 psi boost? 40 kw seems like a big difference even taking into account the difference between 2 and 4 wd. Did you quiz them at all?

Hi Aphex; As always, it's in the tune...I think that the a good tuner with a PFC will be able to overcome any lumpyness, particulary with such a mild cam. That shop doesn't seem short on experience so it would surprise me if they'd base their views on one customer but you never know. Hopefully someone using these cam specs will appear.

Thanks Merli; These cams are very mild, if the overlap is reduced won't it negate their effect? I'm assuing you mean do this using the adj pulleys? I'm also thinking that the duration will affect idle more than overlap, which I can't do anything about.

The benefits of cams and adj pulleys seem to be well known. However, a NZ based tuner with a shop on Silverwater Rd in Sydney (some of you will know who this is) has suggested that idle will be lumpy and there will be an increase in lag using either or both. Cams are 250/260 9.15 mm Tomei PONCAMS. They seem to know their stuff, can anyone comment based on experience? Regards

Justin; If they are as you say, no problem you have a deal. You have PM and email. Can pick up tomorrow.

It should be to some extent but this is strange behaviour. Retardation when cold is understandable but not this much with these effects.

Hypertech Autosports, sorry don't have the number but they have a good rep

This afternoon about 5.30 pm, White R33 on Canberra Ave heading out of Qbyan, turned onto Lanyon Dve towards Jerra. Gunmetal R33 coming out of Jerra on Tomsitt / Lanyon roundabout as I was going into Jerra in a Gunmetal 32.

I'd like to agree but can't remember a bloody thing; when I saw the female lead - Kate Beckinsdale - the blood rushed from my head so quickly my girlfriend had to slap me to get me out of a semi coma. R34 GTT today corner Allara and Constitution big wave but no response. Side by side with silver R33 at Convention centre lights yesterday. I didn't notice (v embarassing) too busy goofing in the sun listening to stereo. Only realised when I heard it take off but too late...

About 5 hours is right I think. $1600 is OK, check out the for sale section they seem to be available for less. We need a dyno in Jerra!

Hi Silver; What 1/2 are you referring to? My GTR pads in standard calipers wore more on the inner ie hub edge than on the outside. I understand this is a characteristic of those calipers.

A lot of turbo intake tubing has a spiral wire in it to stop this from happening. Some people remove it because they think it wil improve flow, not realising that they are achieving the opposite. Unless you are having air flow limitation issues, in which case you probably need to look at the intake system as a whole (no pun intended!), save yourself the hassle.

Sure sounds like it's possible they are linked. Must be something to do with a component that's temp sensitive and can somehow retard ignition also. Time to get the manual out. Will post on the SDU site also to see if the Kiwis know anything.

Whitey; I always thought it was nothing to do with the ECU, good to have the feedback. Ditto AFM. The monitor shows TPS V doesn't change at the 60 deg transition point so I'm not sure that's the problem. For what it's worth I still reckon it's a sensor or some kind of component degredation. Look forward to the results of the new CAS. Does yours by any chance start and idle low ie 600 rpm, building gradually to normal idle speed over about 10 secs? Another annoying prob I've got but I think it's related to the fuel pump return leaking. Anyway I won't 'go there' now...just thought if you have the same it might be related.

There's no question the thing will/should run rich when cold but even if it wasn't I doubt it wouldn't be running so lean that the engine would retard as much as it does. Given that the timing 'sticks' on 10 deg but fluctuates as per normal when decellerating and also behaves normally when idling also thickens the plot, as does the fact that injector opening time remains the same throughout. Seems to retard only under power, no matter how little, until suddenly - and I mean suddenly - getting its act together @ exactly 60 deg C water temp. Not 59 or 61, but 60. Indicates to me a mullered component that's supposed to have a graduated response to operating conditions but isn't doing its job.

How bad is the split on one filter?

Can you post/pm me with a price please?

In light of what others have said I may have to eat my words but I agree with you that it doesn't seem to be a CAS problem. I'm sticking with it being temp related, the point at which the thing starts to run well is always, without fail, precisely 61 deg C. The fact that replacement of the sensors didn't make a difference isn't what I wanted to read though. At this stage I'm just trying process of elimination to think of the things that can send a 'retard timing' message and see if any one of them are temp related. Knowing how cars love to trick us however, the real problem is likely to be masked by two others...