GTR32

I was hoping this was the case so I could just swap in an R33 or R34 controller but apparently the means of actuation on the R33/34 is electronic rather than hydraulic, so unfortunately a straight swap doesn't seem possible. Can anyone with a 33/34 confirm this? Regards

Hi Duncan; That's interesting, I always knew that someone other than Julian Edgar must've built and/or used one. The understanding I gained from reading the article is that, as you say, the difference is amazing. I'll proably go down the route of trying to build one myself as the money for the HKS unit seems way too high given the content, although it has plug n play convenience on its side. Assuming that the car you drove wasn't Julian's own car, do you know who built the unit and if they're a SAU member? Regards Mark

Merli; Good point. My 32 will have about 275 4wkw and hence some of the flexibility that the R34 has in that respect. I guess it would then be logical to look into changing the diff centres...oh no here we go down the black hole again... The whole business of matching engine torque curves to gears etc is so complex I'll probably leave the whole thing alone, but I still want to explore the possibilities because it might yield some real benefits. Sounds like something Sydneykid might be able to help with. Regards

Hi Elithrar; Did some more research today. Seems that the actuator is electronic in the 33/34 rather than hydraulic as in the 32. A conversion would seem to be of the 'nightmare' variety and is rapidly looking to be a no-no unfortunately. The only option seems to be the HKS ETC, which I understand is discontinued, and there appear to be very few people using them so not much user info exists. Cheers

Hi DAN00H; No, thankfully that's not me.

Hi Simmo; The reason? I want to see if it's worth doing, and not just for the extra gear. Found out g'box ratios today but it appears that while R32/33 had 4.11 diffs, R34 has 3.54 which means Nissan had something else in mind for a gear ratio / engine match. I don't have my gear ratio ready reckoners handy (moving house) so I can't work out what final result I'd have using the R34 ratios. I think once I unearth them I'll do some calcs and work it out that way. Thanks

If only the answers were simple. But then we wouldn't want to engage in the masochistic pastime of messing with cars would we? Heh heh. How is the relationship between pressure and current established? I thought that (apart from the low voltage idle of Skyline pumps) once a pump was connected to 12v DC it ran at a constant rate, simply with less fuel returned as demand under boost and therefore pressure increased. Might have exposed my ignorance here! Your rule of thumb seems to work pretty darn well, with some overhead for safety. Bosch rate the 044 @ 15.5 amps and the 'others' at 10.5.

Ken; Thanks for the feedback on the ETC. Gotcha on the clutch packs, I take it that you wouldn't recommend using one on a daily driven car? It's the faster acting ATTESSA I'm after. I understand the 33/34 system transfers torque to the front much sooner than the 32 system. However, from your thread I gather that this might only occur on V spec models? Regards, Mark

Does anyone know if this can be done within reason and if so, whether final drive ratios have to be changed to retain driveability ie engine / gearing match characteristics? Thanks

Does anyone happen know how much current an R32 GTR pump draws @ full noise? Looked in the Nissan workshop manual but can't find a spec. Thanks

Can someone help me out with a couple of questions please? 1. Does anyone have experience with using a torque split controller such as the HKS ETC on an R32 GTR? If so can you tell me what your impressions are? 2. I understand the R33 and 34 versions of ATTESSA and HICAS differ from the R32 system, particularly with respect to ATTESSA torque split. Has anyone researched the possibility of adapting all or part of the ATTESSA or HICAS system from an R33 or 34 into an R32? Regards

Sidewaymambo; Thanks for the lead (no pun intended). It's not the physical fit that is the problem as there are a number of pumps that are 'drop in'. The issue is the ability of the standard wiring to cope with increased current loads generated by a pump that will support 300kw at the wheels. I'm not sure what max current the standard pump draws, but it's probably a reasonable bet that any upgrade will have an increased load. The Bosch 975 draws about 10.5 amps (probably about the same as most of the aftermarket 'drop in' pumps)whereas the 044 draws about 15, which is a significant increase. The thicker wiring is just insurance for any level of upgrade. Mark

Nick; Thanks for the response and the location of the installer, it's good info. Mark

Hi NRB; I'm convinced this is a good idea. Could I please ask how (assuming your car is an R32?) you routed the live feed, particularly the point from which the feed was taken ie battery or another point? Thanks

I’m upgrading the fuel pump in my R32 GTR and would like some feedback please on possible options (I’ve already searched and read SAU extensively and don’t think the popular Bosch 044 pump option is for me). I need something that: is quiet will support around 280 4wkw is dedicated/designed as an in tank pump uses the existing wiring safely ie doesn’t require extra electrical circuits will drop-in without fitting other than straight r&r Options so far appear to be: 1. R33 GTR. A source has indicated that the R33 GTR pump outflows the R32 GTR pump. This would be ideal if it’s true (I’m sceptical) and it’s a drop in fit. Can anyone shed light on this and if it is true, what is the GTR pump flow rate? 2. Nismo. Drop in fit, pricey but good. 3. Apexi. Drop in fit, discontinued but good. 4. Sard. Drop in fit, popular. Would appreciate feedback from anyone who has first hand experience. Thanks