GTR32

nicely done

Whoa there buddy, lets not be tooooo hasty until all of the options have been explored...there might be opportunities for car and driver alike... 'Ya Helga, und I bet zat mine varm and newly resprayed bonnet vill not make your naked butt cheeks shiver under zat thin dress ven you are sitzen on him. Oh...und dis ist mine new front piece, I am zinking you would like to be polishing him by ze rubbing upen und downen after you are getting me a beeren, YES?'. SkyGTRline sorry to hear your car got hit that's shitty cards. Farrugia is good. Depending on your insurance company you can nominate the repairer but you might have to wait for 3 weeks to get in. I've also had good results with Grace in Fyshwick - straight and easy to deal with, they did a great job on a long scrape in the LH rear 1/4 of a Bravo, charcoal metallic - good finish, good colour etc. As for matching a lot of them will say they can't. Move on. It's never impossible, any colour can be matched, they just have to know how. Problem is a lot of repairers just use digital colour matching now rather than matching by eye. You are obviously proud of the car. Be relentless in your search. Time for a silver flame job on the nose?

Hi Birnie, Gotcha now, Afaik RDA make only one type of disc. The whole 'performance disc' thing is what DBA uses to market their discs, as would any company wanting to get an edge. Just like 'kangaroo paw' that DBA swear by. They have different characteristics but it's up to you to decide - perhaps considering the experiences of others if you wish - what's what and what works for you. The RDAs seem to have a very good rep, as do DBAs. You can call RDA and ask them straight - even say that you're comparing with DBA and see what they tell you for interest sake. Call DBA and ask them what, and when, you'll notice as a difference in performance between their standard and performance discs.

Hi Tonkau, I think it's fair to say you got the attention of a lot of us when you first posted. Many of us would've thought 'beauty, we'll follow this and make sure we and our friends don't fall into the same situation'. So there was no way people were just going to breeze on by. I guess now that things seem to have gone a bit quiet - and we have no idea why - a few of us are really disappointed. You seem to have the right people involved which makes us all the more interested in the outcome. Even if you were to say 'oh fark, my bad, should've done x but did y instead' we'd sympathise and feel like we've learned something anyway. Or if you stated you'd been advised not to publish the outcome for some reason it'd also be understandable...but you've left a lot of peple hanging after a few pretty strong posts. So...can we know what the story is? And if you're not going to tell just say so, your reasons are your business. Regards

Do a search, this has been discussed before. I've used RDA on an RS Liberty and a GTR, both worked very well.

so....what was the outcome....? (seems to be an echo in this thread)

on the road it sits about 70 deg after about 30 min driving, climbs slightly over that if I'm punting it. as for the track, not sure sorry.

are you talking about the car or some chick in your room?

have you got a programmable ecu, if not don't do it because the thing won't run. the standard o rings should fit fine. not a big job just fiddly, plug clips go flying etc and for what a mobile injector van charges i reckon it's worth it to get one in. they will probably have o rings too if you need them.

yep nissan they're worth bugger all do the lot while the fuel rail is out incl inj. no secrets just be careful and seat them straight when you reassemble.

go to a good tuner buddy, you're taking chances imho. just let us know if you find one.

paul i have no doubt that the ecu corrects for temp, but i still have not seen an ecu that actively speeds the warm up process using timing or fuel. afaik they all use passive sensors to gather data and then use actuators to make the engine run at it's best for a given temp. azn this would lead me to believe that the ecu runs the engine richer and retards timing a little when it is cold which makes sense, because below a certain operating temp it lacks thermal efficiency - but not because it is trying to speed warm up. engines run cooler when they run rich. cubes i thought engines run hotter when the timing is advanced, not retarded.

i have never heard of an ecu of any type that uses timing and fuel corrections to increase coolant temp, can you elaborate?

how do you know the cat and o2 sensor are almost gone?

yep go with ds2500

Duncan don't you know anything?

still reckon it's a minger lol no doubt it'll look better in the flesh er tin

Yokohama TS-1, done about 3000km wet and dry, very impressed.

i'm amazed, it's a complete howler. looks neither like one thing nor another. moon faced at the front and angular at the rear. compared to the new aston vantage it's like something out of a yr 10 art class. like i said in the skyline general discussion forum, it looks like someone drove it slowly into a wall head-on and left it that way. give it two long white teeth and it'd look like one of those flat / round faced ugly bastard sea lion things. maybe a gummy / pt jackson shark? rear 1/4 window and pillar are classic Skyline, side on it looks ok too. hopefully they'll have sharpened it up with the real thing.

i'm going along with the hole in the tank theory.

the trust and ces long-wastegate style dumps are the only ones of that type I've seen. ces do little things like put a reverse trumpet shaped taper on the turbo outlet flange that increases in size up to the engine pipe diam. for the money a set of HPC coated comp style dumps would be my preference. if you're going to spend $1500 ballpark it's worth going a bit further to get the 'finer' details. if Trevor does the test on the weekend i'm happy to organise a group buy, he's done them before but i'll have to get some idea of who'd be interested. the last group buy through advan for the trust models @ $1100 fell over due to lack of interest.

i'm keen on the sunroof what ballpark figure do you have in mind? i know you're asking for offers but i have no idea what they're worth.

Glad to se you found the misfire - so thankfully not likely to be a head gasket. If it was timing you'd prob have heard it ping by now, you need a fair bit to make it overheat that much. Check the thermostat, they have been known to fail but it's not common. The leak is interesting, def pursue that. When they purge water they suck air back in at the same place but again it's got to be quite a bit to make it behave badly. Over time however... Water pump yes is a possibility but then it happened suddenly which is interesting. Or at least you noticed suddenly which is a different thing, just means it got to the point that there were av signs. Check the water pump housing for leaks, if it's got one and sucking air it will cause cavitation= no flow. Had an interesting experience with a Honda once, drove it 1800km in 40 deg heat no problem. Return trip 300 km down the road and suddenly got huge temp, tried everything like flushing rad etc but turned out to be the fins. Fins were like powder and I'd never seen anything like it, presume with that metalurgical make up ie crystaline make up were useless at anything other than er...being powder. If you go to a rad shop they can pressurise the system and that might help in identifying the leak, just don't let them sell you anything until you know what the problem is. Cheers

what size rim do you have? get hold of a tyre sizing chart or speak to a tyre shop, ask them what the limit is for width on that size rim. there is a rule of thumb that suggests you should put the narrowest recommended tyre possible onto a rim if you want it to handle as it stiffens the sidewalls. but you've said you want the look so if you can put up with going slower, feeling more bumps, tramlining and the extra cost go right ahead. just j/k - it's up to you but there is a down side to wide tyres. as for the profile, as long as the rolling diameter (use the tyre size chart to find out) is the same it makes no difference. i think there is a legal tolerance with rolling diameter - about 15mm from stock from memory. as for fitting your car it depends on the offset of the wheel, ride height etc do a search and you'll prob find a discussion on what fits an R33.

who charges $60/hr anymore? most places charge $350 to r and r coilovers. it's ridiculous but that's what they're charging. so add removing hicas and fitting lock bar, fitting the whiteline kit and aligning. I think $700 is probably OK.