GTR32

Hi Guys; I see a lot of posts regarding the inaccuracy of standard gauges. While not wishing to challenge the observations or experience of others, I'm just curious to know how this popular belief has been formed. I've spoken to a number of instrument repairers who say that factory gauges are made to a tolerance of 2-3%, which is quite good, and that factory gauges are very reliable. However they also stated that senders are known for wearing out, particularly pressure senders. I can understand some drivers may wish to have fine rather than coarse readings ie 20/40/60/80/100 rather than just 70 and 90 (and the standard gauges are certainly coarse) but that's more a function of precision than accuracy. I'm about to have my oil/boost and water senders and gauges tested but it's a stuff around. And I suspect that the gauges will all come back within tolerance. Nevertheless if there is enough evidence to prove that the standard units are useless I won't hesitate to change them. Just interested to hear what people have done re testing etc. Cheers

Guys; Does anyone know if this is possible? It makes me a bit nervous that the PFC won't retard ign via the factory knock sensor, seems the best way to protect the engine so not sure why they don't have this feature. Don't hear of many stock engines detting themselves to death. I know that the dash light flashes when there is det but I'd rather the ECU do it's thing instantaneously. I understand the D-jetro does this so they must have the tech to do it. Cheers

I guess he thought they might not be chamfered out of the box. I fixed my prob with Ferodo 2500 pads and DBA 5000 discs, which were shrieking at pain threshold dbas, by going to solid discs...silent...Tried Lucas organics and the 5000s on and the squeal came back but at about 1/10th volume. Of course the performance of the 2500s is gone, too. You could try Mintex stick on shims, it might help a bit.

Ohferchrisakesallbutoneofyouismssingthepoint (LOL) ; Dear (soon to be) DR Sigsputnik; the purchase of your car is something I hope will bring happiness to you and those around you...but...flame/decimate me if you will (heh bring it on) but the submission ...and I'm talkin gettin riddin of, having pored over for weeks for imperfections and months of lost weekends for the consolidation of research not to mention the lost opposite sex opportunities, through missing social invites etc to finally reach your goal has to render the procurement of a car nice but not nearly as relieving as actually submitting your final PhD thesis. You are a legend, and let it be recorded as so. I have two Masters and 3 other post tert quals. One day I hope to have the same dedication as you and achieve the pinnacle you have. P.S. Get layed as often as you can. You are are Doctor. Thinking of specialising?

Mark I hope you have found an acceptable solution. My experience with a Jensen Interceptor that has a rear window 3 times the size of the S'line and is probably suspected of being a stressed member(!) suggests that if you make enough phone calls and dig deep enough you will get a solution. Try talking to Pilkingtons and others who are in the glass industry because I have been amazed at what they can do if you take the right approach. Hope that helps

Chef: it's really the crash pad I'm after. Cheers

giant seagull??? flying cow???

i have had experience with evo. i would not go back. agree it's worth going to sydney - advan or silverwater auto service - to get a pfc tuned.

i2obert if you're doing track and street stuff you might want to consider getting pads for each ie ds2500 street, ds3000 for the track. it's a small investment to make sure you have the right thing at the time as it can be hard to get the compromise right.

there is a long thread or two on this very issue. i had bad squealing - unbearable - with new dba 5000 and ds 2500 pads. tried everything - stick on shims, camfering pad leading and trailing edges, nothing helped. swapped 5000 discs to 4000 with no shims and the problem went away. tried lucas pads - recommended by DBA to stop the squeal - with the 5000 rotors and while the squeal is no where near as bad it has come back to some extent.

Hi Mesh; I'm concerned because it's not a standard GTR cat and it has at least 70k km on it. It's not so much the stopping pollution bit I'm worried about so, rather that it might be blocked.

Hi rd-runr what area are they in? just like to know so us locals can steer clear.

good to see nik, well done. i bet ed was ecstatic when he found it...and on that note....how DID he find it? 323 rwkw should keep you happy.

I should've put two and two together and come up with John Bennett. It did cross my mind that it would be him but I didn't think he'd still be around the traps. I first knew him when he was starting this work in Melbourne in around 1993-4 through a CNC machine place called MD McAliece and Co, you might find him under that name in Airport West. It was his test rig I saw the pumps on, and it was his swirl pot/deaerator and thermostat relocation kit (to bottom hose) I put on a BB Chrysler. He is an amazing guy and some of the testing he's done on things like cylinder charge distribution in V8 manifolds is incredibly interesting. He'd put perspex panels in the sides of cut away aftermarket manifolds so he could see what was happening inside and to cut a long story short it was tragic. He designed his own manifold to overcome these limitations on a SB Chevy and to say the result was impressive was an understatement. Another horror story was the temperature difference between the front and rear of the block - frightening. Unfortunately he suffered from a bit of the nutty professor syndrome and after 18 months of being promised a pump for the BB Chrylser I pretty much gave up. But he's your guy for water pumps alright. If you speak to him say that Mark the Army guy from Karratha (as I was then) says hi, he might remember. A google search under some V8 related topics might yield a location, he was well known for fixing cars like a Holden 1 tonner with a 454 Chevy that was overheating despite having two huge radiators and 4 thermo fans. JB stripped all that out, stuck a swirl pot and one of his pumps on it and the problem went away. The owner thought JB was god. Not sure he'll help you lower the temp of the engine as such, his theory was that the hotter the better within reason as this promoted thermal efficiency and atomisation etc (not so much of a problem with fuel inj of course). The key was apparently to make it possible for the engine to run happily at quite a high temp without boiling by stopping steam pockets from forming in the jacket through the use of a good pump. Cheers

I agree the pump looks like a dog and I'd put money on it cavitating. Hence my and Scooby's posts. Can't help with the Ecotech but have you tried 1223 for a number?

$3000 for newies? mate you got really badly LUCKY! I'm waiting to fit some also, can I ask what type of dumps are you looking at? Would be very interested to see the results also. Sinista; most places will want around $900 to r and r. Cheers

i had white wheels on my gun metal r32 and thought it looked ok, i've seen far worse!

Hmmmm I think I'd prefer to say that my basement has furniture (wood?).

Try Hypersport in Melb, from memory they are the Apexi reps in Oz. Not sure if that's what Amaru was referring to. Failing that look for Apexi Agent Australia in Google, it's not easy to find from memory but it's there.

sorry to hear that. sounds like possibly a water pump, hopefully not too expensive if you can get one 2nd hand.

one theory i've heard so far is that the rears on the gtr are made harder to control irs squat. not sure i buy that one though, particularly if the gtst has what i'd term a 'normal' set up ie heavier front.

Just what you needed I bet. Good pickup on the dust. Bearing seizure caused by overtorqueing then?

Hi Cubes / Bl4ck32; Do we know why Mr Tensioner Bolt decided to quit? Cheers

Guys; Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was trawling through info on spring rates and found this post by Sydneykid. I was also reading the Nissan manual and (consistent with what Duncan posted elsewhere) the spring rates are listed as being heavier in the rear than the front (134 F/151 R), opposite to that suggested by SK. I know that SK knows his stuff and I'd have also thought that heavier front than rear would make sense given the weight on the GTRs front axles but if that is the case why did Nissan specify the reverse? SK are you out there? Anyone have any ideas? Regards