HG20DET

Cheers guys, got it started again, turned out to be the spark plugs. Now just have to get the afr's right...

thats why i said get a nistune board and a tune, i'm fairly certain the standard injectors and fuel pump could supply enough fuel for 15psi...

Also these days you never know if the person in the done up car your about to race is a cop, there getting around in anything these days... And I own a commodore along with a few other cars, and I find when I drive the commodore I have more people trying to prove themselves and race me... But anyway my opinion is with a budget of $1000 wind the boost up to around 14 - 15psi and get the nistune board and a tune... might get ya around 180 at the wheels...

Cheers for the advice guys, I tried changing over the CAS but still the same problem... I pulled a plug and it was pretty black, it was sparking but very weak spark, so i cleaned it up and the spark was a lot stronger. So I'll clean the rest of them in the morning and see how it goes.

I was thinking about that, but would it go from idleing fine, not missing or anything to not starting at all? I would have thought it would run a bit rough for a while first? Might pull the plugs and check them...

I will give it a go, I do have another RB20 in another car in the shed, just have to hook up a fuel pump for it. Cheers.

Can someone help me, I have an RB20det from an R32 GTS-t, I installed a nistune board in the ECU and had it tuned and it was running fine. Since then I have replaced the afm with a Z32, and put in 550cc Sard injectors. After changing the afm and resizing injectors on the computer it ran very rich (blowing heaps of black smoke at idle and could smell fuel) however it always started fine and idled. I have only run it like this for a few minutes. So the other day I installed a wide band afr gauge and O2 sensor in the exhaust, since then it won't start at all. I didn't think I would have touched anything that would effect the car starting while installing the guage, all I did was pick up power and a ground for the new gauge and welded a new bung in the exhaust. The factory O2 sensor has been left untouched apart from cutting off the wire that I had joined to the signal wire to run a crappy narrow band gauge. I started it up just before putting the gauge in and it ran, then as soon as i tried after nothing.... It just cranks over, I can smell fuel, and if I keep cranking maybe every 15 seconds or so it sort of half fires for a second or two... I have checked the wiring of the AFM it all seems fine. If anyone can help me, or point me in the right direction of where to start looking it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Pat.

just out of curiosity, can this be done to rb20det injectors? And does anyone know how what sort of flow you can get?

it's weird because i've seen some denso injectors for sale that look exactly the same as the original rb20 injectors but they are a different part no. and when i search my part no. in google it comes up with mazda rx-8 mainly... yeah they came with new plugs, but the wires on the new plugs are both black with no markings, so i just started soldering them so the pins are the same as the original plugs...

i don't think too many people are going to get on here and bad mouth there own business...haha i've gotten a few motors off SSS and always found them to be pretty good, but as you say they have no good 26's... i've bought a bit of gear of just jap and always found them to be pretty good.

i think it would be a good idea to have some sort of earth strap to your motor somewhere, on my car it goes from the negative battery terminal, to the chassis then bolts to the side of the block...

g'day, i just got a set of denso 550cc injectors off ebay for my rb20det. the part no. is 195500-4460, and it said in the ad they were to fit and rb20det. however i have pulled my old injectors out and the new ones are quite a bit shorter, so the bottom of the injector only just sits in the hole. Would this be ok? Has anyone used these injectors before? Also the came with some rubber 0-rings, not the ones that go in the fuel rail, but slightly bigger ones, i'm guessing these go on the bottom of the injector around the skinny bit? Can anyone tell me if this is right? And lastly, are injectors polarized? I'm guessing it doesn't matter which way around the wires go when changing the plugs over? Any help will be appreciated, cheers. Pat

You might be better off keeping your eye out for a whole vl for cheap, you could probably pick up a whole car for a couple of hundred bucks. take what you need then sell it to ezy scrap or somewhere for 50 bucks...

thanks mate.

G'day, I have a VL commodore with an rb20det out of an r32 GTSt in it. When i start it cold it idles fine, around 750-800rpm, but once it warms up it sits between 1500 and 2000rpm i used to be able to drop it down by fiddling with the black box on the throttle body(I think its a throttle position sensor or something...) but it would then stall. I had the injectors cleaned, replaced the spark plugs and new coil packs and since then it won't drop at all below 1500 no matter how much i move the sensor. (except when its cold when it idles perfectly..) Any help would be greatly appreciated (and i don't mean telling me to get a real car!) Thanks Pat.