offtap87

cheers for helping state the obvious, if you were planning to do the conversion and wernt aware of that fact, you simply shouldnt be doing the conversion on your own

pretty much unbolt old hub, knuckle and lcas and bolt the new setup in yeah, couple small things to know when doing the job but thers plenty of D.I.Y guides on the conversion mate its all pretty straight forward.

hey guys, got old parts i kept when i sold my 31, theres more but this is all i can think of atm... pm me for any small hard to find parts r31 tailshaft, balanced, HD uni, rb25 brand new yolk, this cost me $370 from hardy spicer. - $150 rb30 radiator in good cond. - $70 set of aussie s14 lca's n castor rods, 5 stud hubs n knuckles with all new studs, rotors n calipers. still all completely assembled n in great nick """CASH TODAY"" - $250 (well under any price in AUS) after today $350 this is a sad sale n bringin back the memories.... ! pm me for contact. South east Brissy

i have sadly for sale from my HR31gts is my S1 rb25det with 120,000 on it. nothing but the motor and few other parts f/s motor COMES WITH: complete series 1 rb25det head and bottom end assembley starter motor pwr steer pump + belt clutch fan + belt standard inlet manifold + piping standard exhaust manifold with heatshields autobahn 88 oil relocator/ cooler kit about 10,000k ago before motor was put in new front and rear main seals dayco timing belt cam seals x2 new tb tensioner water pump cold comp test showed average of 145-155 overall (receipts) very regretful as this motor was going into my project im sure theres more than what ive said, any questions welcome, need gone by friday afternoon latest south brisbane 1000 Dan 0434380918

hey mate need rear hub txt on this num, i can pick up asap im at goodna, will remove if needed. want it today

im having the trouble of figuring out where these wires go to the loom, black to ground on plug, red to black white stripe? then i have a green and a white wire left for the cas ref signal and cas position signal. can it wreck the cas if i connect these 2 wires incorrectly?

sorry for bringing up old thread but i am having the exact same problem, got spark and fuel, the timing marks all line up, put a screw driver on the piston when checking TDC the timing seems to look fine, the only weird thing is the normal position that the plug on the CAS sits at is no where near where it should be the plug and wires have to stretch right over turning the CAS clockwise 180 deg, when the cam timing marks are lined up which mark on the harmonic balancer should line up with the timing cover mark? my timing cover mark is pointing just right of the last timing mark on the balancer, thats if u spin it clockwise its the last mark.

i am having the exact same problem, got spark and fuel, the timing marks all line up, put a screw driver on the piston when checking TDC the timing seems to look fine, the only weird thing is the normal position that the plug on the CAS sits at is no where near where it should be the plug and wires have to stretch right over turning the CAS clockwise 180 deg, when the cam timing marks are lined up which mark on the harmonic balancer should line up with the timing cover mark? my timing cover mark is pointing just right of the last timing mark on the balancer, thats if u spin it clockwise its the last mark.

thought id get few more opinions... really trying to avoid removing head, thinking about removing manifold and cheacking it, standard man and gasket shouldnt be leaking.

joined a few more water lines and and disconnected cold start, turn motor over fair few times then suddenly water submerges into cyl 1 no other cylinders, dry it out and turn it over till it comes back to fire on 1 then it does it again, cracked head? have not had this motor running for a bit over a year was fine when pulled out.

not sure about the head condition took cam covers off looks insanely clean and cams look good havnt seen the head off

does the cold start come from the bottom of the intake to the cold start actuator then to the back up to the acc valve?

have some pics ive taken to try and explain how i have connected everything.

only have 1 tb one connected and its the one facing front of motor, goes down to the twin connection on the block infront of oil warnmer setup

ill take some pics this morning but im pretty sure all water lines are joined correctly, no other cyl's were gettin coolant only number 1 when i blow down a vacuum line on the intake, in saying this its such a promenant noise of bubbling surely a head gasket cant leak this hardcore, motor has only sat for a year so im lookin more towards a wrong line hooked up.

hey everyone, ive had my intake manifold off and have put it back on, have removed oil filter warmer and lines and joined all water/ heater/ lines as ive put an rb25det into an r31 and not running a heater. it doesnt leak anywhere externally but if i put my mouth onto a vacuum fitting on intake and blow i can hear a water bubbling/ leak noise and cant see anything leaking. removed all spark plugs and found my fresh coolant sitting in cyl 1, blew it out turned it over a few times and stayed dry, put compressed air into it and it bubbles my cooling system, i dont know if its headgasket or manifold leak or a line somewhere WTF have never ran motor but know it came out of a pretty clean looked after car just on 100,000. can youse sling me some ideas? might pull manifold off tomoro and its a standard manifold, still have cold start hooked up just red directed heater hoses and removed oil warmer thing near filter n replaced with oil relocater kit. tried air down number 2 also and same thing. any ideas always appreciated, dan

if this is still going send me a pm will take ecu and main wiring harness and coil harness

still for sale

bump

any inspections welcome

still for sale and have whole car up for sale also, all running still

bump make offers

need to get rid of this asap make n offer

its a gts mate, i would LOVE to keep her even had everything needed for 25 conversion, microtech, injectors had it all but some bad times have come along and sadly have to let it all go, very frigin sad

1987 hr31 gts 4 door was fixing this car up but have to let it go now, motor always ran fine tho its pushing the dipstick out sometimes. no noises from motor, doesnt chew oil, doesnt blow any smoke hot or cold. engine: transport depart. told me its a 94 model silvertop rb20det. vg30 turbo full 3" exhaust 999 fuel reg walbro 255 fuel pump supra fmic turbosmart boost controller adthree nissan motorsport front strut brace i replaced the front sway bar link bushes with urethane bushes and the same for the castor rods, needs new shocks and a power steering hose replaced, ive just taken the belt off for now. drivers seat has small wear mark on right leg cushion, top of door cards lookin bit sad now too. rest of carpet and interior is in pretty good condition. rear passenger window motor just died all others work, all lights work, new ignition barrel, locks and keys. series 3 front end. cant think of anything else.. car ran outa rego last week. welcome to do any sort of checks on motor or whatever located in logan city, call daniel on 0423921892 $3500