jjman

yep. that's snapped good. what caused this? a launch? my friend broke his doing drift on a grass field and then coming off onto the road (from a verge so the car jumped down onto the road) with the wheels still doing in the vicinity of 100+kmh and the car doing about 30. What did the laws of physics and friction saw to the driveshaft?- SNAP!

Iv been in a car that snapped the driveshaft (late 90's XR6). You have no idea the racket that a driveshaft can make beating against the car and road at x000 rpm as the driver tries to get going but not knowing what was wrong (driveshaft had snapped near the diff so plenty of length to be crashing around). When the car was repaired they said we had nearly beaten through the fuel lines too which would have ended pretty badly for everyone....

Euro!? Its HSV's n the rest of the commo brigade as far as the eye can see when I look. But agreed, euros are also more popular these days too.

yeah that all makes sense. Good perspective Damo. Cheers. Otherwise to comment on the noticeably less presence of JDM cars on the road? Car age/death? Police targeting?

Just a query based on my observations. IS THE PERTH JDM SCENE DEAD DONE AND GONE? When I got my first skyline in 2009 (not really that long ago all things being equal) you couldn't drive anywhere without seeing a skyline of some description, or at least some sort of JDM car. Also the user traffic on the WA SAU site was huge. Always new posts for cars and parts for sale and almost daily 'spotted' posts. Now I barely ever see JDM cars on the road and there is almost never posts in the WA section for cars for sale or the rest etc etc. What happened? Did everybody go Commodore LS? Have the majority of JDM cars just reached their dying age being that the most were produced mid 90's? Has importation rules and desirability or affordability changed? Have the police yellow stickered JDMs off the road?

its your mufflers and resonators that change/reduce the sound mostly. Though for sure a cat convertor will also help certain types of sounds too. Sounds like your issue is more around the muffler and resonator side of things though.

would highly recommend BRB Smash repairs in Myaree (norma rd). Quality work. (did the new rain catch you out?)

couldn't you just put a bore scope in the cylinders and see the marks it would have made as well as throw the compression tester back on there and show that its no longer the 170 across the cylinders to prove they f**ked it and 'you broke it you bought it'. ? also why didn't you do the compression test yourself in your shop?

what with?

most likely this. heard of this plenty of times and usually is the filler neck leaking. Was the same on mine. I found this gives a really strong smell into the cabin as its so close to ur door. Move your car out into the sun for a while and then when it is nice n warm go and sit in the drivers seat and look back thru ur wing mirror past the petrol filler port. you will probably see fumes coming out- I could before I fixed my filler neck. If this doesn't fix it then look into where the lines are going to that used to be connected to the charcoal canister.

post a photo of said turbo with said plaque. ALso are there any numbers/ writing embossed on the housings?

Iv come across plenty of people that have popped the stocker and many of them on the drag strip/trackdays. Maybe years ago when the turbo and the engine were newer this would have been fine. but with the age of these motors and stock turbos now not so much. Lots of oil deposits in the feed lines and probably build up in the coolant feed too. Sure, some cars will be still clean and healthy. Many not. This guy doesn't even note an intercooler or exhaust mod... But hey, f**k it, go run it at the strip mate. enjoy. Im just doing my best to give well reasoned, non-hectic advice.

hmm, are you sure its not just fluid circulating? (this is normal) boiling is quite a noticeable sound and vibration but you may think the subtle sound of the fluid circulating is a mild boiling? definitely shouldn't be boiling after shut off and also 105 degrees shouldn't be boiling if you have a 1.3bar cap....

id assume any shop would do the easiest thing and just read the manual and put in the factory rec of 30w.

any pics looking down the side? they must poke a fair bit n need a bit of camber to fit...?