jjman

yep. that's snapped good. what caused this? a launch? my friend broke his doing drift on a grass field and then coming off onto the road (from a verge so the car jumped down onto the road) with the wheels still doing in the vicinity of 100+kmh and the car doing about 30. What did the laws of physics and friction saw to the driveshaft?- SNAP!

Iv been in a car that snapped the driveshaft (late 90's XR6). You have no idea the racket that a driveshaft can make beating against the car and road at x000 rpm as the driver tries to get going but not knowing what was wrong (driveshaft had snapped near the diff so plenty of length to be crashing around). When the car was repaired they said we had nearly beaten through the fuel lines too which would have ended pretty badly for everyone....

Euro!? Its HSV's n the rest of the commo brigade as far as the eye can see when I look. But agreed, euros are also more popular these days too.

yeah that all makes sense. Good perspective Damo. Cheers. Otherwise to comment on the noticeably less presence of JDM cars on the road? Car age/death? Police targeting?

Just a query based on my observations. IS THE PERTH JDM SCENE DEAD DONE AND GONE? When I got my first skyline in 2009 (not really that long ago all things being equal) you couldn't drive anywhere without seeing a skyline of some description, or at least some sort of JDM car. Also the user traffic on the WA SAU site was huge. Always new posts for cars and parts for sale and almost daily 'spotted' posts. Now I barely ever see JDM cars on the road and there is almost never posts in the WA section for cars for sale or the rest etc etc. What happened? Did everybody go Commodore LS? Have the majority of JDM cars just reached their dying age being that the most were produced mid 90's? Has importation rules and desirability or affordability changed? Have the police yellow stickered JDMs off the road?

its your mufflers and resonators that change/reduce the sound mostly. Though for sure a cat convertor will also help certain types of sounds too. Sounds like your issue is more around the muffler and resonator side of things though.

would highly recommend BRB Smash repairs in Myaree (norma rd). Quality work. (did the new rain catch you out?)

couldn't you just put a bore scope in the cylinders and see the marks it would have made as well as throw the compression tester back on there and show that its no longer the 170 across the cylinders to prove they f**ked it and 'you broke it you bought it'. ? also why didn't you do the compression test yourself in your shop?

what with?

most likely this. heard of this plenty of times and usually is the filler neck leaking. Was the same on mine. I found this gives a really strong smell into the cabin as its so close to ur door. Move your car out into the sun for a while and then when it is nice n warm go and sit in the drivers seat and look back thru ur wing mirror past the petrol filler port. you will probably see fumes coming out- I could before I fixed my filler neck. If this doesn't fix it then look into where the lines are going to that used to be connected to the charcoal canister.

post a photo of said turbo with said plaque. ALso are there any numbers/ writing embossed on the housings?

Iv come across plenty of people that have popped the stocker and many of them on the drag strip/trackdays. Maybe years ago when the turbo and the engine were newer this would have been fine. but with the age of these motors and stock turbos now not so much. Lots of oil deposits in the feed lines and probably build up in the coolant feed too. Sure, some cars will be still clean and healthy. Many not. This guy doesn't even note an intercooler or exhaust mod... But hey, f**k it, go run it at the strip mate. enjoy. Im just doing my best to give well reasoned, non-hectic advice.

hmm, are you sure its not just fluid circulating? (this is normal) boiling is quite a noticeable sound and vibration but you may think the subtle sound of the fluid circulating is a mild boiling? definitely shouldn't be boiling after shut off and also 105 degrees shouldn't be boiling if you have a 1.3bar cap....

id assume any shop would do the easiest thing and just read the manual and put in the factory rec of 30w.

any pics looking down the side? they must poke a fair bit n need a bit of camber to fit...?

For sure. what oil do you have in it currently? a 40w oil is generally best for the RB25 with a few k's on it.

this and this. but also, have you had the motor compression/leakdown tested? If the motor is too tired putting a highflow on it and upping the power a lot when the motor is potentially really tired will just result in a dead motor eventually (and poor results from the modifications).

this or this is my call too.

it shouldn't be boiling after shut off. The only sound you should hear is when the pressure in the system causes the coolant to push past the cap into the overflow bottle (but this doesn't happen much and it unlikely you will frequently catch the system doing this). if it is making a boiling sound after shut off its most likely because your cap isn't pressurising the system sufficiently to raise the boiling point so it indeed doesn't boil at 100-105 degree range. Secondly, that you have airlocks in the system similarly causing reduced pressure and boiling at 105, Also, does 105 degrees after shut-off seem a little high to anyone? I had a digital temp gauge on my car and the most it got to was 90-95 after shutoff... Though I did have a 52mm alloy radiator in it.

lodge an ebay/paypal dispute. You know they are full of shit when they are dicking around like this and taking this long. Nothing should take that long and they should also have a tracking on it to know where it is in the postal process no? Iv been burned before where they communicate well and say it is coming and its been resent etc only to have them knick off when the time limit expires or they transfer their shop title on ebay and paypal. having said that this is shitty chinese places, not UK based (perhaps it is being made and posted from china though?)

haha. I hear you. Well that noise wouldn't be totally out of the ordinary on a ball bearing turbo like that. Though if it is getting noticeably, progressively noisier perhaps pull it out and rebuild/recondition (or even get Stao to set it up better) before its lets go...

what type of turbo is it? Some turbos naturally make about that much noise on the shutdown. Particularly big BB turbos....

I had exactly this setup- particularly the turbo. It is a great turbo and I really enjoyed it. I had 17psi at 3250rpm. and it come on smooth and holds boost well. But for the HKS price tag you often have to pay for them id say you would get the same if not better results with a Hypergear turbo. ALso if you kill the HKS you have to pay the Garrett price tag for a new CHRA. If you already have it- enjoy, it is a damned good turbo. If not, spend on a HG highflow id say.

Everybody is new to skylines at some point. welcome to the second day

I don't think its really a problem is it? Flood damaged cars are going to be scrapped for parts and the chassis is not going to be one of those recycled parts.