jjman

its a broad spectrum n I think it has to do with what ur car looks like, where you drive mostly, and how you drive when it matters. Iv heard from peeps getting defect notices several times a year, iv had skylines (motor and body modified) for 5 years drive em damn hard n never been pulled. Tho I choose my moments well, don't drive in shitty 'high risk' areas and otherwise my car is very clean. beyond that, you can go pretty mad with mods as there is no yearly inspection and otherwise the cops really are pretty chilled and liberal here. but yeah, have a nasty primered bodykit and loud as fk exhaust and peel out sideways from maccas so all the kids can bow down before you- you will get a lot of hassle. But that goes for anywhere really doesn't it?

yeah its just the associated areas. Anything with tradies and miners and there will be a locust plague of V8's. other areas of perth n u can still come across lots of JDM. Easy to pick up a good cheap well modded JDM in perth. otherwise, if you have options to move and a foot in to any job, do it. WA is a spoiled workplace, even when it isn't on the up n up. Its easy to make it happen.

why was having coilovers a problem for the pits? wouldn't it only be ride height that they can object to?

It is also best to leave it be n upgrade the turbo at the same time as the boost as there is also the chance the turbo can kill the motor when it lets go (turbine wheels bang on housings and send chunks of turbine wheel into the motor...).

haha, that's prob a suspension coilover or bushing too then... does your power steering unit even make a whining sound when used on cold start-up? i.e. cold start the car n then turn the wheel while the car is stationary with the bonnet open to be able to hear it.

massive money and effort to modify with lots of problems and troubleshooting along the way. does it have a computer or FMIC yet? turbo back exhaust etc etc? boost control? injectors for the juice too? otherwise they are an old car like RB's so also consider the usual suspects of fuel pump Also they suffer from a lot of wiring faults and oil leaks due to the restricted space in the engine bay often meaning required maintenance of require things doesn't get done as too expensive/hard to work on. Also that tight fit means higher under-bonnet temps. Any medium to major work is the standard 'engine out' too. I loved the look and the potential performance of them and always wanted one. Did my research, decided against and here I am a happy RB owner

if the oil isn't low in the reservoir then its the pump that's got issues too. If not the pump having the issue that causes both the leak and the hard steering. Time for a new P/S pump by the sounds of it... Any grinding noises at first start up or when you first try to turn the wheel from a cold start?

Luck of the draw doesnt even begin to describe the ceramic wheeled turbo failure scenario. Im here in the UK atm and went to a GTROC meet. 2 stock R33 GTR's both on stock turbo's. 1 gets tracked several times a year. No problems.. I asked him if he was worried about the stock turbos or the oil pump tracking an old stock car like that. didn't seem to be. I also had my '93 R33 GTST with stock turbo turned up to 15psi for 1.5-2 years. Never failed, just ended up upgrading the turbo to chase more power! Go figure...

yeah iv got a low mount turbo on mine n you can still wedge ur hand down and take a photo of the plate. Just stick it down and keep snapping away as you wont be able to see it with ur eyes from the top. Otherwise, being a low mount that you cant see the plate on, I take it it has some sort of a heat shield on it. These are piss easy to take off and will reveal all. do that. Also take a photo of the whole turbo like that n post here. We will def be able to shed light on it that way. Otherwise, here is my fav footage of spool whistle- the HKS 3037 (based on the GT3076 turbo). Scroll to 0.25 for the spooly goodness.

there should be a little metal plate with numbers n letters stamped on the core (around where the hoses go in and out of the centre of it). take a photo of that plate and either take that to a turbo specialist or maybe even someone on here can help you to sus it out based on that. n yes, you'll also need to get the A/R ratio numbers stamped on the housings.

its all age and luck with these things now. My '93 S1 GTST's turbo was still fine, n I ran it for 2 years at 15psi... Ended up swapping it out for a HKS turbo cos I wanted more power. the stock turbo was still going strong though. Go figure.

yeah this noise is pretty common. Mine did it, would not do it with the cam cover off so ran it like that for quite a while but paranoia for cops as well as dirt made me want to get it back on. I replaced the rubbers as well as I think the rubbers on the bolts and its 80% gone now and only on cold start. then it goes away after a bit...

for a 32 gtr that is all pretty standard stuff and hardly an issue and all remedied by a major service. Getting a compression test (and leakdown) will be your best indicator of a sound car. They are a tough motor so can stand the test of time if nothing to evil has been done to them. Nonetheless, also look up (search in the forum) the oil pump issues on the GTR motor and in particular the short nose crank of the R32 GTR. Otherwise, how does it drive? Does the gearbox feel overly tight to shift or grind? Also if it is on its stock turbo's then changing them ($$$) is a good idea as they are prone to failure at that age too, especially if spirited driving is on the menu (turbo failure often requires a full turbo and motor rebuild = $$$$$$)

if u read enough on SAU you will find that these 'chipped' ECU's are dangerous. Yes, they will make your car feel awesome compared to a stock computer. But the odds of it running safely on your car are very low. Many people have grenaded their motors with these, mostly due to knock as they are an aggressive tune not suited to your car or mods. Much less aussie driving conditions such as heat, fuel RON etc. Also R33's are getting old now so much easier to wreck a motor. Also, AFR's aren't necessarily the issue. You can have a car running lean that is fine as the timing is adjusted accordingly, or a car that is rich that pings its head off as it has mad timing (often what chipped Japanese ECU's like a 'Mine's' ECU runs like) Simply put, don't do it. I actually know 3 people directly that have wrecked their RB25 with these chipped ECU's. Save up and get a nistune or a power fc etc and get it tuned properly. Good luck.

Biggest ebay spec alloy radiator that will fit. $300 wont get you anything decent besides and ebay job. otherwise, only you can know how much room you have to move with radiator wise as its a different motor to stock...

depending on the joiner or hose (or gasket) to go there can be a range of noises the motor can make as its forcing the air out through the leak. To OP, start the deductive process of elimination my friend. Also just because something 'looks sealed' doesn't mean it is. I popped the seal on my crossover pipe before and I couldn't tell it was the problem upon visual or feel inspection.

Is a nice donk tho...

detonation (ping, knock etc), as a general rule, is only highly destructive on a motor depending on its power output per cc (engine size). Basically because for higher output per cc you need a bigger, more powerful combustion charge (and usually compression) so if this charge detonates (pings) the cylinder pressure is waaay higher (and usually hotter) than a detonation in a motor with lower power per cc. Hence why old clunker, low power reliable cars can have detonation and not get upset and live a long time. While you have detonation in a high output motor, esp a boosted motor (very high output per CC) it will kill it quick. Having said all this, im not sure what detonation would do specifically on a rotary motor to hurt it as I don't know enough about them. all I know is that they sound sick and can run an epic 1/4

iv had this problem. did my head in. ended up being that in my custom front bar there are 2 bulbs per indicator, and one of the two was out. Still looked like the indicator was working but one of the bulbs was out causing the fast flashing. Replaced bulb. All sorted

and building is serious $ when a decent modded R33 that will put a big smile on his face is under $10k these days... that's also prob less than it would cost him to sell it and upgrade VS boost, inject and tune the current one (+ clutch, + problems etc etc)

I think to sum up this thread for the OP would be to leave the car as is and throw injectors, tune and a boost controller and make the most of that. Any more will take more dicking around and $ Otherwise, prob easier for the goal area would be to sell ur R32 and get an RB25DET car (converted R32 or R33 & R34) that has been modified and tuned for the desired result you want.

that would be way better than a radiator hose sensor probe with that annoying activation dial on it.

a tune helps infinitely. Particularly if you are willing to lean on it a bit and push the boost, esp with an electronic boost controller. take it to Garage 101 for a nistune on the ecu and tune. I doubt you will be disappointed. Per4manz are also a damn good turbo shop so unless that turbo was highflowed for a different vehicle in mind from the technician (i.e. R33) you will be good to go hard on not much more budget... P.S. to get a car that pulls hard and makes full boost under 3000rpm is pretty much a holy grail (unachievable essentially) and will take a very good condition motor with a very good turbo setup and associated mods ($$$). In an RB20, yeah, pretty much impossible.

keep silicone or anything that can end up with little pieces of anything going into your turbo and engine. Repco do what looked like a reasonable metal one from memory...

255 Had Rays rims on mine with that tyre on the rears. FTW