jjman

Its a manual! how many manuals do you know that are easy to get into 1st n reverse when the car is moving? iv owned 8 manuals and 6 you couldn't get 1st or reverse if the car was moving. Also 2 R33s, 1 you couldn't n 1 you just barely can. Its normal as long as it goes in without crunching when stationery. N yes, sometimes it can even be hard to find reverse. Its a manual...

ftw. easy fix. those symptoms must have had you packing...

just remove it and hammer/sand/grind flat whatever isn't flat. otherwise have you tried tightening the bolts more? obviously you don't want to crackt he plastic of the AFM but there may be more tension you can put on it...

this was the symptom of mine as the power steering pump was getting on - noisy when cold and dry steering, then would go away. it will gradually get worse if it is indeed the PS pump. bottom line is you can leave them for a while without any trouble. Mine started having a noticeable effect on the slow speed steering when the car was still warming up until I did anything (replaced the PS pump). good luck!

All things being equal, the viscous fan is very good and mostly should be kept IMO (and I have swapped to thermofans). The reason I did was because I needed a new radiator, like a project (so went for a 52mm with shrouded 2x12"fans), and knew what would be required and what the pitfalls may be. Otherwise it is really only a mod that has any effectiveness, IMO, if you have the car in a cool climate, and don't track it. Otherwise the viscous is better/wins/ is probably needed. Really, the only benefit to thermofans is that they take away that big constant load (viscous fan) to a more intermittent load that can also be turned on at will (if u add a switch- recommended) so that it can be turned on in traffic, or for a while before a 1/4 or short track sprint and then turned off when the time to mumbo comes and the motor/coolant is already cool for you. I love this function. but otherwise it has been a lot of fiddling for a small gain. But ill swear to you it is noticeable- the drag a clutch fan makes vs no load at all (because the motor is already cool and the thermos are off). Finally, in cool air n above 80km/h the thermos usually stay off and the temps stay low. Tho I have the 52mm (ebay cheapie tho) and plenty of ducting/ air chanelling to the radiator (which isn't on a stock skyline as its a clutch fan n so didn't need it) Enjoy BTW, anybody ever seen any of the engine build work by Nelson Racing? 1000-2000hp twin turbo v8's. Always running thermofans.... 4:30 onwards

if you can do that it would certainly be better if indeed you can avoid using a probe into the coolant hose which is quite crude (best u can manage is to have it turn on at 92 n off at 86). If you could also do it on a tunable ecu to have the fans cut in if automatically if road speed falls below 55ish... I love my thermofan setup but know there is more in it. Also a really high performing thermofan that doesn't cost stupid money would be sweet (currently just 2x12inch Davies Craigs...)

Motor is an R34 or R33 GTR (car's original) motor?

so it must have blown and locked the VCT on permanently somehow?

just the way they can be. as long as it goes in when stopped without any major resistance then all is fine. def recommend to change the gearbox and diff oils for some new quality stuff as most skylines have this neglected and can really benefit from it, you'll probably get a far smoother shift and better longevity from your driveline.

straight line braking in wet or dry is not a good indicator or lateral grip (corners) nor how they 'feel' or how they grip once traction has been broken and then in regaining traction... Nonetheless, still meaningful statistics

iv had the ultimate auto trim seats in now for 4 years and so glad I did it. If you are planning on keeping the skyline long term then this is the best thing you can do. Never regretted it. This is the seat covers etc after 4 years. been a bit slack and never gotten around to doing the door trims tho.

haha, exactly. But Im not the type to assume without decent rationale. I suppose id want someone with extensive experience to come forth and say something like- would have to be different modified as a stock diff will not lock the rears under deceleration... If it is also worth noting I also have a high quality synthetic oil in the diff. If that would make a difference to make a stock diff work better/ like what I am experiencing...

Hi all, just got a question regarding the diff in my R33 GTST. Basically im trying to work out if it is a stock diff or an aftermarket one. As its a 1993 GTST I would have expected the diff to be fairly old and worn. But it has always been tight as and will even lock turning a tight corner of more than about 120 degrees. Iv also done a bit of track work and otherwise aggressive driving and the diff will also lock under strong deceleration- i.e, shifting down to 2nd getting ready for a corner. Is this the behaviour of a stock diff albeit in good condition or would it perhaps be aftermarket or shimmed? cheers

those sensors only run at 95 degrees + (im pretty sure it is). As such it is way to high to be using that as a fan switch-on point. You need to put in an aftermarket adjustable temp sensor relay that then turns on and off the thermofan at appropriate temps.

then you were probably on boost going past a cop who was off duty. It scares me how often this may happen for me either in the skyline or the GSXR here in perth with the hoon laws. Im very alert for cop cars and in 4 yrs have only ever been pulled over once (including the bike and the skyline) and it was for 12 over... With this EPA thing you guys have over there it sounds like its worth having really quiet exhausts, n no induction, bov, or wastegate noise or you are going to get trouble coming at you...

that you know that makes me respect you a lot. yes, would also smash. N I personally don't think it was worth a warn. All I could see was black blobs

its never the 'full' full version...

all of these cars, or the r34 n supra specifically, are horses for courses across anybody's view of looks, power, handling, and practicality. I love the look of the supra (albeit with a bit of bodykit or rims) and would certainly be my pick in the R34 v Supra equation. But I also love the R33 the most, again with a bodykit or in GTR version though. N this if often considered the ugliest of the skylines... As far as motor goes, it depends if it is going to be stock or modded. You want epic power or drivability. Some people don't mind lag, I hate it... Decide what YOU like overall, do your research and check $ (cos any of these cars will eat it at their age) and then go buy it, drive it, love it. "find me the girl most guys think is the hottest of them all, and ill find you the guy who is tired of f**king her"

year, spec n mods?

with those symptoms id also start with a thorough check of vacuum leaks. Hunting and poor starting also occurs with vacuum leaks and they are pretty common on these 15+yr old cars now. Good rule of thumb is to get around the motor and replace all vacuum hoses with new lines.

the lead from the seatbelt buckle attaches to a socket under the seat that runs into the car. Easiest place to start would be checking this. can often get kicked by passengers as its got some length to it...

haha, sorry about that. From the brief glimpse i managed of u as i went past (was on the Suzuki GSXR 750- garden city lights, risely st) it looked like it was an older driver. Having said that most of my brain power was devoted to ogling ur car n trying to think if it would be a genuine Nur or not Nice wheels and kit choice too.

Black R34 GTR VspecII Nur on Risely st Applecross. Mature looking owner. Hopes he mashes the loud pedal on occasion. What a sweet ride...

be really gentle with the coilpack wiring 'harness' and ignitor pack (if ur S1). Those wires are old and have been subject to a lot of heat so crispy n easy to get damaged...

Iv got a bit of a random sound problem that I thought id see if anybody could shed light on, or perhaps may have experienced... Basically my car has started making a random, intermittent sound that sounds like it is coming out the exhaust. it is like a half to three-quarters of a second sound that is like a loud 'whooomp' or 'borrrr'. It doesn't seem to affect power at all. It happens anywhere between 3000- 4500 rpm n usually under a half to 3/4 throttle going up through those revs. Can also sometimes do it on full throttle. Bottom line is that I have an assortment of small holes developing in my mild-steel cat back exhaust section, including one in the centre resonator. I am assuming that somehow the unburnt fuel is being reignited into the exhaust from the holes (or out of the holes). The car has an aftermarket turbo n all the tune n fruit to go with that. Otherwise a 3inch turbo back exhaust with 200cell cat (which probably doesn't burn all the unburnt fuel being 200cell on a tuned car). Is that aforementioned scenario likely or even been experienced before by someone? or is there perhaps something more sinister going on like a failing VCT,CAS or tune out etc?? cheers J