jjman

yeah you need to do both for sure and the half moons. The other toss up is whether or not to replace all the rubbet screw sockets too. Depending on age they are all squashed and rock hard. But i think most people get away with reusing them...

Mine was similar to this and only ended up being the cam cover gaskets as is quite common in RB's. Easy job to do at home. Do it. Degrease. See if oil is still coming from somewhere. Problem solved!

often the toss up between getting back on the road and doing it cheaply and easily yourself and what not, vs paying/waiting big in doing all the hoses which would require a mechanic unless you had a mad tool kit, mad skills and mad patience. My only point i make in this whole debate is for people not to put a higher pressure radiator cap on (as will often come with alot of aftermarket radiators). This is usually the time people get alot of repetitive hose fails...

did this a while back. Get the longest nose pliers you can buy. The ones i got must have been 9 inches long from repco. Undo the clip where the hose goes on to the motor near the plenum and then tug the hose off (you might have to try hard, its been on for 15-20yrs..) once this is off undo the bracket that holds the feed line as it goes down to the turbo (right near the back of the turbo/exhaust dump). With this bracket undone you should now be able to pull this whole line out from behind the rocker cover (back of the motor) as the line is flexibile enough. You will need to get the angle right though... Once off, replace with new hose (dont need to go OEM as its just a 90 degree bend so take it down to repco and get a hose that will replicate what this one is). When putting the hose back on to the feed nipple near the plenum make sure it isnt rusty or with sharp edges. Then otherwise put some spit on the nipple and the hose and then use ur long pliers to wiggle it on there (remember to put the hose clip onto the hose n up the right way to manipulate it before putting the hose on the nipple). Bitch of a job but deasy enough when you know how to do it.. GL

what condition/km is it in and what are you willing to part with it for?

'ken ay. after seeing those dynocharts if we had E85 over here id get the 2835 in an instant. Until then, my HKS 2535 is doing the trick just nicely

cant you compare it to the one removed from the sump to be replaced by this one? otherwise likely it has been stripped at some point and recut to a larger thread size...

yeah skylines are pretty well known to have fuel gauge issues in their age. Do a search, its usually either a gummed up fuel gauge float/slide, or the float has come off its rail.

post pics after putting them on

eeeeeeverybody who has a skyline has been at that point. haha. I threw 5k at a HKS turbo, nismo injectors, a computer n tune. 2 days later i blew a boost pipe. (big bang under boost/WOT then it runs rough as guts with smoke coming out the back). Thought it was f*kd, drove home, cracked a bottle of 15yr old whiskey and contemplated exactly the same as you. About 4 glasses in my brain threw up an old thing I'd read on SAU about blowing boost pipes and the symptoms. by the 5th glass i had found the pipe, fixed, n was good to go again (committed to skylines, not driving right away)

within reason anything can 'fit', in that very liberal interpretation alot of people seem to be getting into these days. In this case, well, not really if you are talking about an r32 and only rolling. Otherwise it will also be a mexican stretched abortion... It will also eat tyres and attract the 50 like a *insert witty comment here*

Iv set mine at a temp that i know it will be able to turn off again. Essentially, unless it is pretty cold weather, you will struggle to get ur thermoswitch for the fan(s) to switch off if it is set for under about 88degrees (as the sensor is in the hose n also runs on a long probe it seems to be a bit delated in its reactions iv noticed). Otherwise, the blower fan should come on when you turn your AC on (at least it does in R33's). Honestly, the only way iv managed to get the thermofan setup to do what it is desired to do (work only when it needs to and otherwise be off when it doesnt, freeing up response and horsepower that the clutch fan otherwise always draws) is to have a manual switch in the cab. That way you can turn it on when you are going to be moving slowly in traffic or if it is otherwise a hot day and/or using your AC. Otherwise the thermofans will always be catching up on itself- that is, not turning on until you have sat in traffic for a few minutes and the temp goes up to the switch point and then it actually has to try and pull excess heat out of the system... While iv got this manual swtich and am happy to use it like this it would otherwise be a pain in the ass for most people. So really the only way to do thermofans properly would be to set up a window switch that would turn the fans on; 1) at less than 50km/h. 2) when the AC is on/ more than 30 degrees ambient outside.

Of course you are going to need to roll the rear lip and push the front guards back a bit but otherwise all good. will be pretty good but for the love of god put some wider tyres on it. 9.5 inch rims take a 265. Get at least a 255 on there.

would be fine. People get strangely finniky about oils etc when really there is little need. If your car is unmodified (i.e. major power and tune alterations), doesnt make lifter noise on startup, and doesnt use oil then a Shell 10w40 would be sufficient. If you give it a regular bootfull and go to the redline then maybe think about at least a semi-syn, but otherwise, all good.

yeah if you are having trouble with scale then they are worth their weight in gold. I put one in at the same time as my new alloy radiator to keep it clean from the start. Also they have a magnet in them too which pulls the tiny little grains of rust out that otherwise also exacerbate the problem.

must be co-incidence surely. Completely different systems/effects. Nonetheless, i take it you have tried unplugging the plug again and making sure the contacts are good etc. Maybe even put the climate control in diagnostic to make sure it thinks everything is fine too..

so does that mean u are open to unreasonable offers? hehe, sorry, couldnt help myself

to do thermofans properly u really need a shroud, twin fans, window switch, and aftermarket temp sensor u can see in the drivers seat (stock gauge is really just a rough estimate and using the ecu sensor via consult laptop isnt practical). if u dont have much or any of all this then go for the clutch fan.

id say they did set the timing wrong and realised this when you brought it in. But as if they are going to say that. They would have just set it right and given it back with said story. You should have checked where the CAS was at before and after. Man i give my left nut to be able to hide a secret camera under the hood when dropping it to the workshop... (which i do as infrequently as possible now)

anything around +35 will be about right if you dont want to roll the guards etc. (tho it does depend on exactly the size of rim you intend to use.) 8.5 & 9? Seriously though, dont hesitate to be open to rolling the rear guards. You can get some way nicer fitment and ride height if you do.

'a bit'? How many degrees is it at now and how on earth did it change from what it was set to originally? RIP GTT

so they are used pistons? how many km's? What was the gorge from? (pics?)

id say send it back and get the proper kit. If you ordered GTST then get GTST. Id say anybody on here can only speculate on whether it will be ok or not to actually use the GTR one. Incidentally what number does the face of the thermostat have etched in it? (the thermostat crack temperature)

yeah they can be worth a bit if you can get them working. Why dont you put some effort into that? Im sure i saw somewhere on SAU discussion on what it takes to do this. Otherwise, what do you mean a smear? as in the LCD liquid has broken out a bit (not fixable- means the dash is worth fk all now) or just that the plastic now has a smoggy smear on it from the solvent/grime? (fixable). Otherwise, an R33 cluster is dead easy to get hold of, dead cheap ($50-$100), and dead easy to install (put led's in at the same time to give it a bit more of a modern feel to it).

Cool, i thought i might have. There was a guy there in an R33 that had pulled the bolts on's and computer off another car, thrown it on his, and off he goes. Not tuning or nothing. Was then at the track day giving it a go...