jjman

I met you at a trackday a while back. Wasnt yours the car with the bolt-ons from another car (turbo, intake manifold, injectors etc etc) as well as the ECU. But the ecu was tuned for those mods of the bolt ons in the other car and you hadnt bothered to get it tuned again to your car, you just hooked it and and went from there.? If so then some decent DET might have been occurring methinks...

coils will often work fine at idle and low rpm/throttle levels, but then loose their shit at higher rpm, that 3-4000rpm range as you hit peak boost... But yes, overall doesnt point directly to coils.

Even though you have splitfires in there it sounds like textbook coilpacks. Try some other known working coilpacks in it. Otherwise you say you have only 'checked' sparkplugs and 'cleaned' the AFM. Id go for changing spark plugs to the tried and tested bcpr7es .8 gap. Also 'check' that you dont have a dry solder on your afm or some other problem/damage in it. That timing seems normal but otherwise when was the last time it was tuned/ PFC checked? good luck. Nothing worse than a case of the missfires/backfires.

Yeah iv had a mate whose dad didnt put the wheel nuts on tight enough n it made that noise. could be some crap in the disc/pad making a noise, Just because they have been done/serviced recently doesnt mean it isnt this. or indeed be the bearings (and worth sussing out the true cause soon in case it is this...)

this. if it is just maintenence on a stock skyline then your preferred servicing place will be best (not a dealer). The import specific places charge mad money for not really an amazing service. so not worth it at all IMO. But if it is modified and/or you plan to modify and tune then you will need to choose an import/modifications specialist.

mate. take it to a shop. constantly driving a car that is overboosting and you dont know why is dangerous territory. For the turbo and the motor. A decent shop can prob look under the hood and easily see what is incorrect and sort it for you. Also, as im not sure what boost gauge you have been going off in assuming your car is overboosting. But the stock dash gauge is not accurate, nor reliable. Especially at the age of these cars. (mine use to read about 11psi when in fact i was at 14-15psi) good luck

you mean the one that goes to your EBC? or the stock dash guage? If its the one to ur EBC then it probably got a leak in it somewhere along its line, or the EBC is stuffed.

did you check and see how good the ah 'mines ecu' under the back seat was, or did you just throw it out?

Forget brands and other little mods. The biggest thing that will make a difference to your track time is tyres and driving training. Otherwise if you still want to hash over this topic in this thread then you might want to mention what ur spring rates are in your coils as well as any adjustability in the shocks... -GL n otherwise spend alot more time searching. Work out what camber, toe in, balance etc is and does, and you will also be able to understand alot more of the advice that will be made.

yuk...

stretch is against my religion. But a 235 should see you right. Otherwise camber is also a bad thing in a street driven daily unless you dont mind paying the $ that it costs in how much quicker you chew ur tyres out because of said camber.. but around 1 degree on the rear should see the rims n tyres fitting as well as minimal tyre wear from it.

yeah thats correct then, Basically you cant just remove that cam cover as well as the rubber gasket as you will have seen there are basically some washers in that gasket where the CAS bolts on to and this spaces it out by the desired amount. If you put the CAS straight back on without this spacing there it can do some damage to it all. Also, from my experience, i hope you managed to get the CAS back on exactly at the same point as it was. Mine was out (rotated) by 2mm which wound up being 4 degrees retarded. And thankfully retarded and not advanced!

Those rims will fit but you will need to roll guards n do some liner work. Otherwise it all also depends on how much camber you do end up running as well as tyre size. As far as camber kits go, they are only needed to reduce camber after lowering the car (essentially you can have heaps of camber from the stock arms if ur car is lowered, it is getting less than 1-1.5 degrees that is the problem once it is lowered). Obviously this isnt going to help the rims fitting as taking camber out puts the tyres closer to the wheel arch that is the limiting factor in actually fitting big rims with lower offset.

heavily agreed. Otherwise having that cover off wont do anything untoward unless you drive through a big sand dune or otherwise live in a really dusty dirty area. Beyond this the cover can often hide noises from the cam belt system so when you remove it you can then notice noises more. (this also works the other way round like with my car where the cam cover was resonating a weird sound and this stopped when the cover was removed :S [fixed now- new rubbers])

Follow this description on fully and confidently bleeding an R33 skyline's infamous cooling system of air (10th post down). This will also detail how best to use the bleed screw and not piss coolant out all over your intake side... http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry6476678

HKS do spark plugs!? what on earth would they be doing them for and to what performance advantage?

maybe the actuator diaphram is fkd... If your wastegate can open then somewhere the signal of boost pressure in ur vaccum lines is not being translated to the actuator/opening the actuator properly...

if you have ruled out boost controller as an issue then either an aftermarket actuator or your actuator is jammed. Is it a split dump dump pipe? they have been known to foul the wastegate flap...

HKS coilovers on my first R33 (first owner just thought it was 'lowered a bit'). 174-176psi across all cyclinders on my second R33 (and a yen coin under the back seat).

yep, como/karawara border. Damn boat has been sitting there 3 days now. Might report it as i may have been stolen. Saw it on the street the day before tho so issumed it was someones on the street or a friend of's... Poor thing, sounded sweet with pipes on that quad cam V8...

Spotted- this rape victim at the end of my street. I guess cul-de-sac burnouts didnt end well (thats not hektic camber on the front left wheel) Awful nice of you to leave it in the middle of the culdesac too. Couldnt limp it to the curb either?

hells no. That will hit the rear guard lip and rub the front guards without doubt. Would need lots of camber and guard rolling to fit. Will not be legal.

FTW

for sure. N how many mechancs will let you stand near them when they work?. For exactly this reason too probably!

yep, what 89cal said. Try to work out if the motor is pumping at all (you can hear it- dont need the motor running either). If you can hear it trying to pump then trace the water line as it goes up to the bonnet on the drivers side and you will find a connector you can upplug just under the heat insulation. Unplug this and see if it will now squirt water out of this end. if so, blocked sprayers (highly likely), if not, then prob still something wrong with the pump. GL