jjman

good to hear. A very wise choice. too many people on here seem to run with the 'she'll be right'/i wanted sik power with mad boost but dont want to pay so much to maintain it...

nope, its not a date code that will be of any use/relevance to your situation. Usually the major service results in a sticker on the cam cover as a 10-15 yr old car (that is 90% likely to have had the clock wound back) it is best to err on the side of caution and do the major service. Also because ur water pump is also bound to be of unknown age and km. If either one lets go its a blown motor. Best to be safe n do it and have the piece of mind instead of driving around a potential grenade n the worry that comes with that. Iv had a mate whos car was within the service interval (as indicated by the sticker on the cam cover) of the major service but the water pump let go...

Hey people, I have noticed on my R33 GTST (with Z32 nistune) that if i observe the engine temps via conzult or nistune the digital engine temp via this sensor rises normally but then will sit on 72 degrees no matter what. So yesterday i disconnected my thermofans and let the car idle up hotter until the AC fan came on (98 degrees- also verified by my aftermarket coolant temp sensor and gauge) but indeed the digital temp reading was still sitting on 72 degrees. Does anybody have any idea what might be going on here? Stuffed sensor? Glitch with the Nistune setup? ? ? cheers J

Iv worked out with mine that the AC will actually start running quite well if i just leave it on (18 degrees, AC, 3/4 or full blow). Initially it isnt too cold but it then seems to start blowing cooler and more consistently after a while and will get really cold after quite a while No idea why... Tho the air-con compressor was replaced just before i bought the car and i think it is an aftermarket unit or a non-R33 specific compressor. I wonder how this might be affecting things..?

ah yep. that makes sense. cheers man

how did you go getting the consult cable to work? (and on what program?)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406363-coolant-reservoir-problem-or-not/page__pid__6479040#entry6479040 10th post down on that topic. enjoy.

bit a random multifaceted description there... Firstly, RB25's are a bit of a bitch to bleed the air out of so start there. Secondly, idle has nothing to do with your radiator or temps. Thirdly, by temps rising slowly do you mean that it takes a long time to come up to a normal operating temp? if so thats ur thermostat (which can also be the source of overheating troubles too). Fourthly, if your heater doesnt work it is because ur heater core/lines to it are blocked, or because ur turning it on before the motor is up to operating temp (the heater wont get hot till the motor does) Also, make sure that the Blitz radiator cap is the same pressure rating as the stock RB25/R34 one. There are only problems to be had by going to a higher rated pressure... Finally, but only as a 'keep in mind' if the other things cant be sorted. If you 'blew' the radiator hose attachment section (would take considerable pressure) and you are having cooling and other assocaited issues then it is possible you have a blown headgasket.

Manning rd- Silver R33 series 2 with 'SR' numberplates.? I was on the bike coming up to the lawson st light. Pity skylines cant filter too eh?

meant to note it a while back that iv been using the Castrol Edge Titanium fully synthetic for a bit in my HKS turboed 320rwhp 1993 R33 GTST with 155k km on the clock. used the 5w-30 over winter (tho perhaps a bit thin for a car of this age?- seems fine tho and its what iv always run) and now the 5w-40 coming into summer (WA). Seems very good, no oil being used but my car never has anyway. Got it when it went on special at REPCO so is a decent price for what seems to be a good oil.

Corner of Hay st Subiaco last night at 930. Ended up with an epic 3 Skylines on the front line at the lights. I was in the black 33 on the left.

i took my car to the tuners recently to have the timing checked as it was retarded by 4 degrees. Anyway, they adjusted it while the car was idling n didnt do the lock mode tds thing- tho they got the signal of coil No.1 (and of course a warm motor...) also we were checking that the ecu was running 15btdc as we adjusted it. worked fine. back at 15 btdc

thats what i wanted to hear. too easy. Yeah i figured it was all good as it ran fine. Just didnt want to sleep at night thinking there might be a handgrenade in the draveway that i paid good money to have built... :s

alright, sounds good. tho u sure it isnt going to be pushing the clutchfan harder in order pull temps down that is essentailly impossible because of the thermostat? Anybody have any idea at what temp the R33 N/A ecu starts pulling timing and adding fuel?

yeah as i said it is running all of the R33 equiptment (just double checking you are referring to the pic higher up in the thread with teh red engine bay, not the ones posted above...). Otherwise they have also modded the spark plug signal system as obviously it doesnt use the remote spark sender (i think that is what it is called) that sits at the back of the valley cover next to the fire wall on S1 R33's. Basically the car runs fine and perfectly and has done for a few thou kms- tho iv only run 98 in it as aware of the higher compression thing. I just want to make sure that it will stay that way into the future! Only other thing i can think of doing is changing out the thermostat as it is using the R34 one that came with the motor, while if the R33 ecu is running it seeing running temps of the high 80's its going to be winding on the clutch fan pretty hard to try to get it down into the 70's/low 80's as per the R33 parameters? Anybody on here can comment on what temps they see on the motor via consult to the ECU? I looked and it is running 86-89 currently with the R34 thermostat in it...

Nope, no ECU change or anything. Just a straight motor swap of everything inside the headers... by that lobe thing i mean this but then i also see that NEO motors can look like this? what is what? is one a turbo and one a non turbo?

hahaha, classic.

hahaha. while i also agree with that. have you checked what forum we are on too? makes your post invalid too im afraid...

haha reminds me of a group i used to be an admin of- "All that money on your car and my stock bike is still faster" I love my modified skyline but f*k me, get on a jap superbike and all relevance of 4 wheels becomes distant (except for safety)

yes id heard there was a difference between the cams. Tho is the NA motor also different and referred to as the 'NEO'? or only some/later versions? The one i have looks identical and does not have that weird 'lobe' on the pipe going to the inlet manifold like other NEO's iv seen (but maybe that is just a turbo motor part?) see pic- exactly the same

Hey peeps, Iv got an R33 that has recently had an R34 motor put into it by a reputable shop. Im just wanted to double check that this is going to be fine and be reliable long term. Essentially its just the R34 N/A (block/head) into an R33 so all R33 stuff including the computer running it. Is this going to be fine or what? For example, one thing i have noticed is that (via consult cable) the base operating temp is 85 degrees. Which i hear the R34's were designed to run hotter n therefore have a higher temp thermostat in them. But is this going to be ok with the R33 ECU running the show? Otherwise the timing map etc of the R33 ecu running the R34? are the compressions and cam duartion the same? cheers

ah yep. too easy, will do. cheers for that mate.

have you got a boost gauge to tell what the turbo/boost is doing? only way to tell... R&R is rich n retard- a setting the pumps excess fuel and retards the timing in order to prevent damage to the motor. stock ECU has this setting and isnt afraid to use it lol. im not going to advise over the net what to do with ur setup. only advice is to get it sussed by a professional.

sounds like R&R rather than a misfire. My first thought based on your description of recent work done on the car is that the lines to the boost controller etc are now wrong and it is running unlimited boost. Hence pulling hard and then slamming into R&R when it runs off the map. Check this out very thoroughly as if it is it wouldnt be long till you throw the turbo's guts down the exhaust... otherwise it may also be pinging hard also causing the R&R which means motor life is being threatened too. go to a reputable workshop and get them to sort it id say as the stakes could be pretty high here.

as in head-butt i think. so its pulling and then misfiring at high rpm? either that or going into R&R hard too...