jjman

yeah i was thinking that. But the inspection glass is nice n green when running n sometimes the AC will run for long periods too... What is the bridge switch/bridge high pressure switch and how does it work?

ah. cheers for that then. Is that maybe a reason it is turning itself off that it thinks the core is already cool enough? or conversely that it thinks the system is overheating? otherwise do you have any idea what might be the most likely fault to cause this temperamental on-off behaviour (when the AC diagnostic mode indicates no faults...) it seems to be a common enough problem that im sure someone has resolved it in the history of SAU...

yeah this is my rationale too- some sort of a mod to get it to just stay on when AC is selected. if it isnt on Auto and its is selected at 18degrees with AC on then it should run indefinately. Which it does when working correctly (my other skyline did this fine). I might get it this week and put it in diagnostic mode after running the AC as much as i can and then put it in diagnostic mode when it is playing up. Hopefully then the system or sensor that is problematic might show up...

if you have it lowered and a bit of camber it will be ok. In fact it will look nice and flush. U have rolled or cut the lip out tho right? I run a 275 on a 18*9.5 +36 with only .5 degree of camber and it is dead flush with the guard. So you will be +6mm further out, less whatever the difference is between that 265 n my 275... -so basically the same. N u cant get that little camber in a GTST without camber arms. So they will be cambered in further most likely...

yep sounds like an AFm problem or a solid boost leak. have you checked all of your piping?

totally stock black R33 GTR with 'almost JDM number plate' at Kingsway in Darch on Tue night.

iv had the trouble in my R33 of my ac switching on and the often (but not always) off again after only 5-10 secs of being on (this is in A/C on mode with 18 degrees selected so technically should run indefinately in warm weather as the interior isnt 18degrees before it switches off sometimes). Sometimes it doesnt even switch on. THo there is no constant situation (like hot or cold ambient) where it runs, is intermittent or doesnt switch on in. There is plenty of refridgerant as the view glass is nice n green when on and the air is nice and cold. Iv run the diagnostic mode and no faults. anybody know what might be the cause of this or experienced it? otherwise can you access all of the cars sensors via a consult cable and program? im sure that one of the sensors must be shitty and so going outside its operating range quickly and then switching the AC off. Tho its problem doesnt show in diagnostic mode... Anybody? (i cant go another summer without it working)

ku31's are a good tyre IMO. particularly if u can get them at the good cheap price they often go for.

yeah right. I thought that might be the case as when iv seen pics of pistons with broken ringlands the rings themselves looked ok still. Hardy RB's FTW

dang. Well you might know a bit more about this question iv had for a while then. If you say just crack/break 1 piston ringland. Would you have noticable symptoms or is it possible that just 1 or 2 would go unnotived besides a slight variation in pistion compressions via a compression test?

dang, did you do any other damage to it? glazed bores? fouled O2 sensor n plugs dead cat etc?

see if you can get an actual chart of tyre widths. The 255 275 etc etc is actually variable. Dont ask me how or why (probably something similar to the rationale to use a combination of metric, imperial and frational notation of tyre size- fail). N think about it, its not like every tyre in every combination is going to be exactly the 265/35/18 fraction. this would also vary. really its an aproximate measurement. previously i had a 255 tyre on there that was in fact only 245 wide. my current 275 is full 275... but all things being equal. no, that kind of difference on the same brand of tyre would be almost impossible to tell by a 'felt' difference

ahhh, yeah thats pretty retarded! Mine only felt about 5-10% down on power n otherwise ran fine. and that my good man is Awe-wait for it-Some!!!! have you seen the movie Uncle Buck? (now im showing my age...)

yeah right, Im running the toyo proxes4 atm and after the KU31's they arent as good. wet, dry and in loss of traction. noisy as hell too.. then again, they arent bad...

what model of toyo was it?

how retarded was it to do this? also how hard a tune was it? I just found out my car has spent the last month at 4 degrees retarded via the CAS. Didnt do anything adverse and only seemed a tiby bit down on response and power...

big call! what is the warm up time like on the yoko's? and otherwise the treadwear and outright grip on 300kw rwd?

how does retarded timing cause extra heat? and does advanced timing cause lower temps?

Mine did it dead stock everything. boost, everything. n there wasnt anything wrong with any components or timing etc...

with great difficulty. as i said. Dont even think about it unless you start getting a bad smell, or you or a passenger comes down with legionairres... Often people who go digging for it find it has already been removed anyway. Got smelly years ago n so people checked the replacement cost n then just thought f-it and pulled it out n were done with it.

yes, essentailly, but also a bit of a moderating aspect of this is the warm up time for the tyre. Some tyres warm up quicker than others, so basically some tyres spend more time with poor grip until they are up to a preferable operating temp. This is the main problem with semi-slicks for street use. Grip is amazing and prob exactly what we are after if we are trying to put down serious RB power. But its the warm up factor that means it isnt as simple an issue as look at the grip level and balance this with your power level and away you go. (then throw in winter and in particular wet weather driving and its a far more complicated decision). Hence why alot of people seem to pick the Fed' SS over the RSR. The warm up time is quicker which means you actually have higher grip for more of the time 'in the real world'.

haha, yeah its a nistuned Z32 ecu. Probably only clear to people who know about these cars and the untunability of the R33 ecu. yeah it is a crack up how poorly the stocker goes. If it wasnt for the compression test i did (175-176 across all 6) i would have thought something was wrong with the motor. But doing a bit of research on the issue on threads like this i worked out it should be just a lame ecu. Which all things being equal was a good thing for me as it mean that this 17yr old car had never been able to be pushed hard. Cant imagine how someone would have bought it from the factory like that and tolerated it. If i bought a brand new GTST n it made power like that i would have put it back through the dealership door kamikazi style...

Sounds exactly like my S1 Rb25 before retune. It wasnt misfiring it just lost torque @ about 4500-5000 rpm, Got it stock and was like this. SO started changing parts to see what was the problem 3inch turbo back exhaust- same FMIC- same Splitfires- same EBC@ 10psi- same retune- brought to life. Perfect motor, just a conservative S1 computer. Not sure how you find it out without actually getting a computer and a tune. Perhaps call around the reputable shops near you. Probably plugging in a diagnostic program via consult cable should be able to tell you some things. Prob see the timing getting pulled out of it... Not saying it is certainly this on yours but its possible. Check all the bits first.

ventilation air filter would be the climate control system air filter. Behind the glove box. Expensive OEM! most people dont worry about it unless it gets rancid or has some problem.

could be anything. Just keep troubleshooting it as its not an overly complex mechanism and im sure you will find the problem n solve it. Iv fixed 3 boot latches now. they are frustratng but ultimately fixable (99% of the time). Usually its some sort of alignment thats gone out or a pin or spring has come loose (15~ yr old cars)