jjman

with that ull need to do more than roll the inside lip unless ur planning on running some camber or a stretched tyre (or keeping it at stock height).

make sure they go on stretched for that hektic balla look.

120 is certainly getting a bit rough and in difference to the others. Is that the cyclinder with the oil in it? if so i think you have probably found ur problem.

splitfires ftw.

id put good money on them being the same (20/25/26) + the z32's as well. There is no rational reason nissan would make them different across similar cars at the same time in development and production.

Iv got an RB25 with Z32 (type 2) nistune in it. Ill try it this on the weekend n check it on nistune n consult n let you know what it does.

ok thats a good start n fair enough But you say in the OP that the issue is when you are driving it and coming on boost. So while the coilpacks might be able to work fine at idle they might still be having issues under load. Which is of course their usual point of issue- under load, coming onto boost and in particular at 4500rpm WOT....

how are you coming to the conclusion that the coils are all good? Just because they look fine doesnt necessarily mean that they are fine... Had a friend who bought yellowjackets barnd new have them fail after 3 months. 'Looked fine' still tho...

cant see why as you dont need to change over the CTS when installing a nistune. Tho i do wonder if some sort of difference exists that requires calibration upon installation of the nistune...

that noise sounds horrible. Any idea what caused the auto trans failure? Had the fluids ever been looked at or serviced? km?

is it blowing/ coughing any smoke? black, white or blueish?

easy enough to get thru nissan- did myself a while back easily enough. Just get an oem one and put it in there. Cant see the point in dicking around with it as its a point that can easily generate an annoying vacuum leak...

235's n 255's. i run toyo proxes 4. decent but noisy. prob prefer kumho ku31. How much power are you putting down n how do you drive it/what do you want out of your tyres?

got a full alignment done yet to see if it all good? Also check the hub n diff bearings after a drive n make sure that they are all good too... final thing to check would be doing an accelration in 1st gear n make the wheels spin n see if it axle tramps. If it does also means some else isnt quite right. hopefully u have it sussed tho!

and damn they look cool in flashing lights on the highway -getting defected

really? i thought it was the other way around? even as a thermofan user id agree that the stock fan does move more than enough air, also it is self regulating on how hard it 'pulls' based on the temps encountered. The advantage of thermofans is that they dont run all the time and therefore take power from the motor at all times like the stock fan. In fact with my 52mm alloy radiator the thermofans dont even come on in the winter months unless i get into stop start traffic. Even then they only come on for about 90-120 seconds per cycle. Also that the old clutch fans are often wearing out n becoming unreliable. Therefore alternatives are worh considering.

just search their cfm rating. Odds on there wouldnt be much in it. So it would otherwise lead to what would be easier to fit (properly) with an associated shroud and thermoswitch n relay etc... Iv got twin 12" thermos on a 52mm radiator + shroud n i had to mod the fan n the power steering pipe a bit so that it would all fit without interference. A smaller radiator would be no issue tho. But if you were going to go this size id reccomend going for the big single. hehehe, in skylines it all comes back to the big single or twins debate doesnt it...

yeah i hear you on that. kinda like the superstretched tyres on rims sticking out to hell + dumped to ground n wheel alignment all over the shop... for the street ABS is ur best friend. For track or driving purists then ABS is not such a good aquaintance...

not sure about OP's case but stock steering wheel for me meant i couldnt see any of the dash gauges, also i think that if i had an accident that wheel would have broken both my legs (i think im a bit bigger than ur average jap that this car was designed for...) otherwise i dont see any mention of disabling ABS here. Nonetheless, after all these years of age skylines have its just another thing that could develop a fault.

Agreed n even if it isnt, the pain of going through one by one and replacing bits that might be damaged (camber arm, trction arm, hub, diff etc etc) means it will probably best to just get a new subframe and all attachments and do a total swap. Perhaps first thing is to go to a suspension shop like pedders and get them to have a look n see if they cant offer any guidance as it would be a bugger to replace the whole thing if it didnt need to be. But judging by the look of the bend n break in the subframe mounting point for the trailing arm you replaced- the subframe probably is farked... Also dont be surprised if your coilover if also in the f'd category... Good luck

dang. the world moves in mysterious ways...

i bet there was some sweet liquidation priced gear to be had in that closure... N is it just me or does their closure seem a bit sus? They were always busier than any other shop i went to and also charger the most. Why the closure? anybody know?

never heard of such a design. N also could imagine why it would not exist as trying to merge the gas flow as it is also dealing with another change (going into a cat) could reduce efficiency of the design as opposed to merging it a bit further up the dump pipe- just like in the pic by the OP

and so when it is done properly like this what does it truly do? create a more stable flow/boost pressure? iv got this setup too that works perfectly but iv always wondered what it truly does over a big bellmouth...

resistor? not heard of that before but if i can offer any advice- dont be f**king around with circuit boards n soldering- much less of the ecu. these are old vehicles and alot of these old components are easy to damage... honestly, id just unplug the globe for the airbags in the dash (n convert the rest to awesome looking LED's at the same time) n be done with it. If you ever put the airbag wheel back in then put the globe back in. Dont worry about the error code as either easily explainable- "i put in a sik pimp-red deep dish wheel for a while n now the stock airbag wheel is back in" or easy enough to wipe error codes. FTW