jjman

of coourse you could put it back to standard. N computer issues etc would have been discussed somewhere. Do a search n see if that offers any suggestions.

14 seconds on ebay. Even found it with the type of steering wheel ur after.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Deep-Dish-Drift-Steering-Wheel-Boss-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-R33-S14-200SX-Hicas-/130773826050?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e72ba3a02

are you referring to a replacement for the aftermarket one i have or the OEM one?

on both counts

boss kits are boss kits for skylines from memory. U just need to make sure you get one that is 'hicas compatible' so it can run the hicas sensor too

I also wanted to query this... I have an aftermarket temp sensor in the top hose (which is i gather just after where the OEM sensor sits?- in the housing just before the top hose) anyway, this thing reads 86 degrees stable as the point where the thermostat has opened and obviosuly circulating coolant- i.e. it is the lowest operating temp indicated with the motor at operating temp. But if i plug into the ecu it is displaying 72 degrees. any body know what the gig is here?

series 1 no-airbag model FTW!!! (legal to swap out as i am not removing a safety device) I dont know how you guys do it. Im 6ft n with the stock wheel i cant see above 40km/h or 3000rpm on the dash!!!! I put on a steeering wheel that wouldnt look out of place on an xbox can see all the gauges now tho!

possibly not. Offset is too positive for rims that wide. Might have the tyre or even rim rubbing on suspension components. You'll need to do some searching...

nope just heard they had shut down/gone into liquidation...

true. If you can find out who the tuner was, and as long as they were a decent one, you could get a FMIC on there n hopefully a good boost controller if there isnt already one on there and up the boost a bit n retune- which if it is from the original tuner should only be a cheaper touch up tune...

Sweet. Good to hear mate.

well there is a fair bit to be had from a tune on skyline on its stock injectors and turbo. Stock boost is 5-7psi and really rich. Up that to 11psi and tune with a zorst n intercooler n its a pretty good bang for your buck result. Injectors, air flow meter and a turbo + all the work to install them and tune is not a cheap process. Hence why alot of people do just the aforementioned. If it is indeed this but the guy has said high flow , gtr squirters etc thats pretty damn snake of him. Still, you should have checked it out and verified it before buying...

yeah you would need to see a receipt for that or even better pull off the exhaust housing and check the rear wheel of the turbo. Probably pretty important to do that in make sure it is high flowed otherwise the guy will get it on the dyno, ask 18psi of it, and the ceramic rear wheel exits like last nights curry. Also pretty important that you get a tune after changing the front mount intercooler and upping the boost. Otherwise might end up in areas the car cant handle n it will det its head off. Im iInterested to know why a car with bigger injectors and turbo would be running only 11 psi and a power range the stock injectors could have handled...

500 for all that sounds alright...

bingo. After a while of running my thermofan setup i did this. I never had a problem with the system failing n using it as a safety measure (tho it is certainly good for that- and needed). The reason iv found a manual switch good is that you can switch it on if you know that you are about to be sitting in traffic/stop start etc and the temp will of course rise to the point of triggering the fans.. Instead of the temp needing to get up to the trigger point on your thermo switch n then activating (and staying on until it gets the excess heat out of the system), you just turn it on pre-emptively anyway so that things are kept cooler- it is easier to keep temps down than to drag higher temp out of a system. Also it means that A: she will be nice n cool when the traffic clears n i want to get into som WOT straight away. B: so that when you do clear traffic n go WOT you have switched the thermofan off and as the system is cool it is also below the thermo trigger point so it stays off and you dont have the load of the thermofans running. Which is one of the main points of doing thermofans, not having a permanent and unnecessary load on the motor if it doesnt have to be there which gets you more power and response from the motor to the wheels- FTW I did a trackday recently (skidpan so single 1-1,5 min laps) and i manually switched on the thermomfans while sitting in line before my lap so i had a nice cooler system n then swtiched off for the lap so no load on for the lap (n was below the thermoswtich temp so didnt come on). Worked really well.

if it is work that doesnt require fibreglass work then BRB smash repairs in myaree are great. Keep away from Dreamworks like the plague.

wind 20psi of boost into em n see how they hold up (or 5 yrs of use)... Nah, all things being equal, they might. N if they do, more power too ya mate, seriously. But the SAU community has enough experience with all the Z32 afms, Nismo injectors etc etc to know when you are getting the real deal, n when you arent. Im not going to debate it with you anymore so say what you want from here on. The only reason i have debated it is so other people out there dont get mislead into thinking they can get genuine stuff at a 'too good to be true price' off ebay.

if they are referred to as brand new OEM and at that price- You bet it does.

maybe for you they kept working, for the OP not so much. N just cos a product looks EXACTLY like the one it is replicating is hardly a measure of it being able to hold up, Those copy Z32 AFm's can look exact too...

u sort this? what was the problem?

yeah i cant wait to hear reviews on the KU39 as im forever looking for that tyre that puts down decent power, doesnt need heaps of heat to work, nor sets sail in the wet- nor costs mad money like pirellis, contis or bridgestones etc as i do give them a hard time n chew them quickly I liked the KU31 so a bit of an improvement on them would do the trick for the cost...

the chinese are damn good at making fake stuff mate. Looks the bis, but aint.

what are the spring rates in them?

also, while a popped-off IC hose if frequently obvious (and in your case, if it was running that bad id say it will be), but sometimes it is not. So if nothing is obviously popped-off then dont assume it isnt an IC hose, just be more thorough n check everything twice. Once one of mine popped but it was only coming off when the car went on boost. N upon visual inspection i couldnt see anything obvious, but looking closer i found it. Good luck!

if those second hand ones from the shop for $200 come with some sort of a warranty- at least 6-12 months then id say go for it. otherwise second hand but not very old splitfires do generally go for the 450-500 mark. keep away from yellowjackets n other stuff like that that is 'budget brand new'.