jjman

yep. I was in the Black R33 with 400R kit. you were driving up Norfolk st from Marine tce. I was heading the other way heading down to little creatures Looks like you were having fun cruising around Tidy car too.

Any word on how your ecu install and tuning went? All good? got some nice numbers and seat of your pants feedback for us?

S2 have a sloped down section to the front section of the bar that matches the way the S2 bumper slopes down quite noticably. Good luck with it

down thru that bracket to where that other vacuum hose is going too. There should be 2 vacuum hose attachments just below there. this hose should plug into one of them. yes 1500rpm is mad. See what it does after you fix your vacuum leaks n then other wise tweak your idle. If still no good then clean the AAC valve.

Black R34 4 door with 4 ladies in it in freo. FTW

yeah iv never noticed a difference after using it. Only difference i ever noticed was a bad one. Used it on a 2.0 4cyl Sonata with 250k on it. It blew a tiny bit of smoke beforehand and used a bit of oil. After some upper engine cleaner it blows smoke like a mother f**ker, especially from the valve seals (i pity the people that are behind me at the lights after sitting for a while) n it uses bulk oil now. Never again. The only time i can think it would be a useful product is as a repetitive preventative product in motors that are prone to build up. Otherwise its probably not going to move anything substantial (like injector treatment) and if it does itl probably create a problem in a car that is otherwise running ok...

not really. Well the fix is easy enough. its getting to the unit that is the mission!

easy way to diagnose then. clean all of this oil up (both sides of the turbo), put on a dry type filter, run it for a bit. Pull off pipes agan n see whats the giggety-go.

good point. I would have thought the same... only explanation i can think of is that it would flow in this direction when off boost...? (which is most of a vehicle's driving time unless its a track only car)

champion. N guity as charged for not searching. Ill remind my girlfriend to spank me when she gets home later

Hey people, Iv noticed recently that my fuel gauge is behaving strangely. Basically it can be nearly empty or at least in the bottom 1/4, ill then put say 20-30 litres in and it will jump up to 100% full. It will sit there fo a while too. When it does start to move it will go from indicating 95% full to say 1/4 tank in 50km or so. Anybody had this before? any simple answer/fix?

agreed. + unless you plan on changing ALL hoses on the motor then puttin a 1.3 bar cap on is quite likely going to start popping these too (iv had so many friends do this). Rememberyou have a car that would be around 15 yrs old now. Those hoses are in good nic anymoe...

ah ok it is pusing right the way through the compressor wheel. I thought it was only a pressure wave bouncing back n forth between the throttle body and the outlet side of the compressor... And yes, agreed that it looks like it is flowing in from way upstream (filter). But to be really sure pull off the pipe from the compressor outlet. If there is heaps of oil there then turbo seals + flutter is likely. If little or no oil then can probably conclude filter oil.

it has to be the K&N if there is no other input into the intake pipe. unless BOV flutter can force air back past the compressor wheel? couldnt imagine it being possible n to the level of oil that is there. But i dont have flutter so not surewhat it can do...

heeeaaps. trying working a curtin university. Iv driven along the main road to the uinvrsity before and passed 4 in 3 minutes...

if it pissed you off you can have your climate control switched off and set to either fresh air or cab only. That way it will stay in that mode and not try to open teh vents every time you turn the car on. I remember i did that for the while before i got in and fixed it...

oh shit. random! Never known the octane boosters to do that. UNless it finished off a plug on the way out or something... Also just to be warned, if you have driven that car hard and felt the way it responds under full throttle and builds power- you will probably find that it wont feel as good as that after having a tune done. Mines ecu's are so aggressive that they make the car feel awesome. The tune you get will be alot safer on your motor and therefore the car is likely to not feel as responsive or build boost/power as quickly. The tuner may however feel that you can raise your boost and outright power so you may be lucky in that regard and indeed find more top end power to be had as a result. Good luck and let us know how you go mate.

yes... but octane boosters are known to foul sensors- i.e. your 02 sensors in the exhaust as well as wear spark plugs quicker. Id say put some in myself, iv never had anyt trouble with it tho i use the 'dyno tabs' which are meant to cause this sort of problem less. Otherwise dont hammer it or even boost it if you can help it. Nor drive it in hot condiitons or with a heap of people in the car. Its not like this ecu is likely to harm your motor between now n the time you get a new ecu and tune- 'its made it this far already'. But it would sure be a shame to have ur new car and its built motor go up in flames because of it...

nah you will defaintely be able to get them to fit. The front guard rub isnt a problem n rolling/cutting the rear lip is a piece of piss. Iv got 18x9.5+38 with a 275width tyre on the rear of my R33 GTST and it fits easily while lowered and only .5 degree of camber, I only needed to cut out the lip on the rear... fronts are 18x8.5+38 with a 235 tyre. They dont scrub unless really pushed in a 180 turn. Urs will sit 8mm further out than mine which is really nothing but it will slightly increase how much they may scrub on the splash gaurds. Also R34's are rumoured to have the slightest bit more room in the guards than an R33. never heard this confirmed tho.. the only issue you need to confirm is that these rims are designed to clear the calipers on a skyline, if they do then ur sweet.

probably a good thing im thinking? Not many people realise but our motors are frequently experiencing mild detonation events, its impossible to tune out all cases of det, hence why detonation is only deemed an issue above a certain amount. They are so smal they cannot be heard by the ear and they dont present any immediate threat to the motor. But it isnt good for it bottom line. Increasing your octane can help to reduce this. What i am not sure about is how the effect of that level of ethanol content will effect a motor tuned for 100% petroleum. Another person might be able to answer that...

yeah they should fit well. Might rub a tiny bit on the front splash guards with suspension movement n at full lock. but all good. However, thye are going to make ur can look a bit like its on stilts. So when the time comes you want to lower it with some coilovers you will need to roll the lip on your read arches. Again, piece of piss n nothing to worry about.

nah they are a road car tune.

yeah i keep hearing that but could that completely explain the mad timing they wound in??

Usually they settle down but depending on the resonance and acoustics of your bits n pieces on your motor, particularly your timing belt cover, it can remain. My belt has continued to do it after the change. its less than it was when it was first done but still there... It stops completely when the timing belt cover is off. But that isnt exactly the fixt i want. I then replaced the rubber seal around the CAS as well as the bolts n it is 70% better. Just harmonics methinks seeing as it goes away completly when the cover is off...

need the air flow meter to run properly so if you have too much of a 'hole' in your intercooler system between the AFM and the intake manifold then its possible this is your problem. Also i think there is some earthing wries in that end that also might need to be double checked. Iv had the same symptoms as yours before when i disconnected the earthing wires next to the thermostat...