jjman

yep. exactly this. Tho i had always assumed that it was from a bingle as if u look closely u can see that the left rear 1/4 panel has had some work done to it at some point. quite likely... 15-20yr old cars. Turbo, LSD's = said drifto into a kerbo at some point. INterestingly, i also had a look at my non-turbo R33 GTS n it is the same. But years ago it had an el drifto into the right rear. But the right rear still sticks out more than the left like in all our examples...???

im the same. always wondered about this. car drives straight etc.

white S1 R33 with what looked like advans. I was on the corner of Sevenoaks st in Bentley at the tyreways (formerly bridgestone tyre centre)- on friday morning. Holy shit u were pissing white smoke out the back. Something aint right there my friend...

cool. good to know. cheers mate

awesome! where did you get it installed and tuned for $750? good tune?

ahahaha, it was after i wrote up the bleed number above that i went to bed n thought 'wonder if he has ruled out the radiator cap yet?, forgot to ask..." hahah, good to hear u worked it out. Iv been thru the radiator cap debarcle myself before...

What sort of rear housing (5 bolt?) n wheels this running?

Iv come up with an easy way to make sure the car is bled properly the first time, everytime. 1: jack that front end up in the air as high as possible. see pic 1 2:crimp/tie off the hose that runs from the radiator cap too the overflow bottle (or the little bottle setup in step 3 will just drain into the overflow) 3:cut a 600ml bottle in half, stick the mouth into the radiator cap opening and tape it to seal it with a good tape (iv found wide electrical tape the best for getting a seal so it doesnt leak coolant while its bleeding). see pic 1 4:fill the bottle up 1 inch with coolant (keep about 1-2 inch filled) 5: start car (with heater on full bore in the car) and idle /rev to build heat and start the bubbles coming out. 6: put a couple of socks or rag around the bleed screw and open it to let air out (see pic 2). When the coolant starts to get hotter and the air has largely gone then it will piss coolant out a fair bit. At this point just screw the bleed screw in a half turn or so and you will see that cooland and air can still bubble/ooze out without the cooland pissing out everywhere (see pic 2). After a while itl just be coolant so close it up and only periodically open it to the 'ooze point' n u will find a little bit of air might have accumulated there again. 7: let the car idle till the system is well up to temp and the thermostat is up to temp and fully open. Give the car a good rev at this time to really make sure uv bled the air. 8: switch off car 9: release the tie/crimp on the overflow line n the coolant left in ur bleed bottle stuck in the radiator will run into the overflow bottle. 10: remove ur bleed bottle. 11: seal the bleed screw propely and put the radiator cap on.

conzult or the nistune freeware versions http://conzult.com/conzult/downloads.htm http://www.nistune.com/support-downloads.php otherwise i could never get datascan to work for some reason. conzult n nistune do tho (be patient tho, will take some fiddling around n uploading drivers correctly as well as specifying comports and ecu types...)

Damn, i thought the newer generation of coolants were environmentally friendly(er) n putting them down the drain wasnt a problem. Not so the case?

again, disagree. Society and world finances are in the state it is because of greed, impulsitivty and always 'getting what you want'. This is what ends up keeping people entrenched in debt, not actually becoming financially secure. You live beyond your means and you pay the price. Of course then these people whinge about it n how its society's fault they ended up in that situation. When really it was a matter of checking ur head, motives and consequences of actions before taking them. otherwise the 3rd party/theft, as well as excess rationale here are equally flawed... Not giving you shit. JUst trying to get you to reevaluate the scenario and see what is truly your best options, both now and the consequences in years and decades...

How much power is it rated to?

sadly lowering insurance premiums is largely pre-emptive. Work out what it is going to cost before you purchase and use ur brain. Age and driving history are your two biggest equations, otherwise where u live does matter too. Beyond that count on the premium rising over time, just like everything else in this world, and count on it rising alot if u f*k up and have to claim. Now work out if u are comfortable with all this/able to afford that car and insurance. Pretty simple. I waited till i was 25 plus before getting a big sportsbike and 30+ before getting a sportscar. Did i want one earlier? f*k yeah, of course. But did i realise it would have been damn stupid to get one then. Damn straight, so i didnt. I waited until it was a reasonable equation of costs as well as having the money to buy the vehicle outright n not put myself into debt over something unneccesary. The amount of crew iv met with massive loans just to get a 'fully sik car' and then also having to pay 2k plus a year in insurance astounds me for a multitude of reasons.

shannons rule if you can get them to take you on. Which in most of the cases here is not possible (dont you need to pretty much be 30+ and have a near perfect driving history [5yrs] to get them to touch you with a skyline?) It costs me under $500 a year to insure my R33 GTST (highly modified class) for 16k. Love you Shannons.

been there before. Thankfully was on a motorcycle so just had to trailer it to the dealer. They all laughed so hard when i pulled it down the ramp, fairings off, showing the world an oil filter that like like a tazzie tiger had taken to it for an hour with not much more than the base left intact...

bottom line is you just have to shop around- if possible. Insurance companies can and will change their prices at any time. Bottom line is that u are a 24yr old driving a modified 34 GTR. U were already putting urself in dangerous territory with that and only having one available insurer (im pretty sure u said that). U might find that JustCar worked that out and now know that they are your only option. (Market monoploy=$). Otherwise, i know alot of insurance premiums across a range of products are going up, Ur not the only one...

sounds awesome! what a sleeper! i wonder how the rest of the car would hold up, either the 120 or the 200 option. brakes, suspension, diff, chassis... I always had a massive hard on for an RA21 1974 celica with the 3t-gte motor transplanted in it. But the rest of the car could be a bit of a chore bringing up to speed too... http://maydaygarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/1974_toyota_celica_gt_coupe-pic-59268.jpeg poooorn

replace oil pump n stock turbos. That way you can trust it

well speaking of the devil. I saw this minter at the shops the other day. Cant even begin to tell you how far those wheels sit insit the guards. Its almost comical... Anybody ever hear of anybody 'RB-ing' a 120y?

what looked like my car's white twin cruising sounth on the kwinana between leach n beeliar dve. GTST- S1(?cant be sure as it was dark) with GTR spoiler and staggered offset rims. Looked nice.

yeah this is primary reason that i swapped to thermofans. After a workshop 'trimmed' (butchered) the fan tips so that my new FMIC piping wouldnt hit on it it certainly seemed unbalanced (and obviosuly as some blades were trimmed more han others). And even if something doesnt look unbalanced, spinning at those speeds im pretty sure that any slight imbalance that isnt obvious to the human eve could still cause problems... Done right im finding the thermofan setup better (52mm aluminium radiator + twin 12" thermofans on a thermoswitch relay in the coolant line). In cold weather or doing over 60km/h (relatively vs the ambient temp and amount of stop start traffic im in) the fans dont need to be on. So saving alot of energy and the motor pulls so much more smoothly particularly from low rpm. Even with the fans on it seems to pull better than with the clutch fan.

How on earth you can be at the point of diagnosing not just a motor running lean, but running lean on the front 3 cylinders, but unable to ascertain why is beyond me...

maybe water pump or temp sensor then. That is some strange behaviour... Or it could be one or both of the above as well as an otherwise poorly performing thermofan setup that then leads to overheating at the other end of the scale... Good luck

cheers guys. Will check those routes n see what i come up with.

Year? Pics?