jjman

on this relative topic. My 25kmph passenger door locking always has and still works. But my rear demister has stopped working. Fuse is fine too though. thoughts andybody?

based on that its because his thermostat is stuffed. Which means that it doesnt open or close properly based resulting in those symptoms... not to say it wont still overheat if his thermofan setup isnt adequate....

dw. i used the c word n sau auto edits it!?

id be interested to know if anybody has had any bad experiences with it... anybody? i used a can on my old sonata and it seemed to make it smoke even more and use more oil.... (tho its got over 250k kms on it n they are shit engine...) Still got a can sitting in there so wondering if i should run it thru the RB25... turbo seals? O2 sensors? high flow cat?

Gave the missus a wash n wax on the weekend. came up good. Did the duties for me, my mate, n 3 gorgeous girls for the night in style. Also another reason for having a good, tidy clean car. Iv done skidz in front of the cops twice recently n didnt get pulled over... (and luck)

bingo-same with me. Nozzle in about an inch find the right angle n she will take it full steam. these are japanese cars after all

if its sitting that much different to your other GTR with the same rims then id say that it had spacers on n u didnt notice, or that the rims weren't what you thought they were. -are you going on the rim dimensions and offset from what you were told about the rims, or what was labelled/stamped on the rim (though i guess there is even the chance that could be wrong on occasion)

general consensus has always been that its all in the turbo n tune... also, if ur seeing full boost at 3000rpm then you have a small-arse turbo on there. infact i wouldnt put it past the chinese ebay place to have told you a stock RB25 turbo. Its pretty much the only turbo that will make full boost by 3000rpm on an RB25...

fronts will scrub n the rears will sit outside the guards unless ur running a bit of camber. also rears will require the lips rolled or cut out to fit...

Manning rd- clean looking silver R33 S2 with drift lip n eyelids. SAU sticker.

go the +37, +24 will be pretty mexican. +37 will be flush with the guard and look great (will require rolling/cutting the arch guard on tho unless u want to run excessive camber or if the car is lowered). +37 and some good 265's or 275's and you are in looks and traction heaven...

that is your motor in the very near future. The amount of people i know directly or indirectly that have ended an RB25 with a mines ecu now is very close to double figures. N that is on a stock turbo!!!!

how many k's you done on this since installing this turbo and running it @ 17psi on a mines ecu? also is this Mines ECU setup to work with bigger injectors and a Z32 afm? or is it all on stock RB25 bits?

I rate this comment. She comes on here for advice and just gets the usual SAU user's 'we're awesome n know everything, you dont-noob' lines without any real help or guidance.

good but economical replacement is BC coilovers. MSG 'boostn Imports' in the business trader section and he will know what you need for that car im sure http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/292008-bc-racing-suspension-kits-for-almost-every-model/

bingo. and just a random bit of trivia to make all us RB owners feel better about the amount of oil we need to feed our beasts. Particularly modified RB26's - The Lamborghini Aventador needs 13 litres of what im sure is some pretty top of the line fully syn

On an oil change I always fill so that it ends up sitting on the high (hot) mark AFTER the car has fully recirculated the oil. This means you can then very easily see if the oil were to drop for any reason during service intervals. Mine never does but if the day comes when i do ill know straight away. Rb's also seem to be a bit safer with a higher oil level, especially if you give them some revs n cornering...

im about to do this job myself. Any words of advice on the line? Nissan OEM? or something else?

I cant see how it would be truly working without sticking out a bit n at least 1-1.5 degrees of camber... Also stretched tyres are something that i dont really count as admissable technique for something fitting. id be keen to see pics of that Joey... No wait you do at the top of page 86 n you indicate a +22 offset, not +12 as here though.? I can see that setup being +22 (and ill say it looks reasonable) but not +12...

the fronts on R33's are a funny thing... having rims that sit flush means rubbing on the guards under turning/load. Iv got 2 skylines. 1 is getting close to flush and rubs (tho i would say not badly at all and very tolerable) with 17x8.5+32 with 235's. The other (car in the pic above) sits in a bit (i.e. is not flush) and does not rub at all- on this the rims are 18x8.5+36 with 235/35/18's. Im sure once again camber or getting stuck into the front arch guards might fix it but thats cheating in my books, and fronts with camber on a street driven car will chew out sooooo quick. does your car have coilovers or is lowered?

wouldnt the easiest way to test this be to turn off the car that your jumping it from? that way if it keeps running its the battery. If it stops its ur alternator?

well it is fat enough n it isnt... N funny you should ask. I run 275's on the rear of mine... but there are a few things you have to take into account. my rim is 18x9.5+36. Which is about as good/wide as it gets for an R33 GTST when all other things have been considered. Any bigger/further in n you are going to be coming close to suspension n guards etc. Any further out n it will stick out from the guard. I have had to completely cut my rear arch lip out to get these to fit. As you can see from the pic it sits EXACLTY flush with the guard (at the top) but the tyre does stick out further down the arches- so technically defectable, but its sticking out overall n at the top that is the main issue for a defect. n the boys have never bothered me about how mine slightly stick out. See pics attached The second issue is that alot of people will simply run alot of camber to get big rims n tyres inside the arches. Well, ok, that works, but basically you are reducing the handling of your car AND chewing through tyres very quickly (and expensive tyres at 18"x275)- Its just not worth it. Finally, have you ever used spacers before? often they will never sit perfectly and balanced which also means that you get some interesting handling characteristics and steering vibration. Oh yeah, n spacers are another thing to get defected for...

Mate, those are massive wheels for a GTST (and tyres). While you may be able to get them to stop hitting on the inner with spacers they are going to stick out like bulldogs balls and certainly require considerable guard + suspension mods just to not hit the arches...

Those will fit. Tho as usual, depnding on ride height, camber n tyres- fronts might rub the guard at full lock especially with suspension load. Rears might need the guards rolled. Nonetheless, should fit well/look good.

to me it sounds like there is more wrong with it than just the need for adjustment. I dont think he should be able to freely move the wastegate with his fingers... or is it just the valve/disc that covers the hole that has some freeplay but the overall mechanism is still stiff and cannot be moved by hand?