jjman

im pretty sure he is saying your post has been thoughtlessly put in an inappropriate section...

yeah i was about to say. iv got a dayco on there and it was noisy when i had it put on. but not that kind of noisy. It also went away after a period of time...

what time of timing belt has been used as the replacement? n just to confirm- the sound didnt go away after you removed the timing cover?

yep. below the bleeder and even radiator cap. CLeaned it out for the first time last night n the mesh was clear but the magnet had lost of rusty flake residue... Glad this thing is there if it is removing this kind of gunk... Will update this with comments as in the next few weeks im going to run a flush through the system so ill tell you what gets caught when i do that.

why use one?! this and this. N iv had several skylines now n been through the joys of 2 clogging radiators. We have near on 20yr old cars now that are notorious for doing it... Also im now running some higher power through it and i live in perth with out lovely 46 degree days in summer. Want that thing running properly...

So i have taken to putting in an aftermarket temp sensor and TEFBA inline filter into my cooling system. Naturally these both need to go into the top hose (outlet) which is sadly a very short and mildly convaluted. I have modified the hose path to be able to get in the sensor uit and tefba filter with a set of hoses as shown. I was just wondering from the people in the know (people just throwing out ideas and opinions try to hold back) if this is going to be ok and the cooling system is going to still work fine based on the hose path. 2 points worth noting. -the hoses i have utilised are all sitting as per their original design. that is; there is no angles being forced on the hoses, nor any pulling or twisting going on that will cause the hose to crimp under heat/pressure. -the hose is still always in an ascending gradient. it doesnt go up n down along its path from engine outlet to radiator inlet (see pics). it is still a steady upward gradient as per original design which im sure is necessary in coolant hoses. This going to be fine or any reasons why not? Obviously my main thought of issue is the 100 degree bend now utlised between the sensor and filter, which was not in the original RB25 design. However some cars do use such extreme bends in their radiator hosing so i can imagine why it would create and issue here... cheers Justin

hey, just interested in this as it sounds too good to be true... So are you saying you cant get these to break traction even in 1st gear ( in straight line acceleration) with 280kwatw?? interesting loss of power on the dyno. U sure they were pumped up properly? 30kw sounds like alot....

yeah no shit hey... ill have to look that up n see what my chances are then. Im running 18-19psi on a HKS turbo now... tho the weeping is veeery minimal n only in the last 6 months. Before that it was bone dry...

ah gotcha. Nah no white smoke, never was. yeah iv got a fresh turbo on there now so shouldnt be anymore coming through to compound the problem, but will prob put that gasket replacement on the 'R33 list of things to do'. Just did the cam cover gaskets :s

Hi all, iv noticed that the join point for the upper n lower halves of the plenum on my RB25DET is starting to slightly weep some oil residue. Just wondering what would cause this? Iv got the whole blocked PCV valve, catch can etc and have vitually no valve blowby and no oil makes it back from this system to where the pipe ends in front of the turbo intake (i.e. non-atmoventing catch can) My old stock turbo was leaking some oil from the seals but I wouldnt have thought it would make it all the way along the system, throught FMIC etc to the plenum... thoughts?

this n this. thankfully they arent too expensive from nissan compared to some other imports/JDM. Obviously repco etc will be cheaper with a generic brand but its not worth the risk n effort.

im not going to do the search for you but they are pretty easy to find in the business traders section. Just go into that section and then in the search window type in O2.

sounds like thermostat without a doubt. mine had same symptoms n replacing it fixed it.

bingo. So, the usual advice. Do some research on who are the tuners in your area (you dont want to drive 2hrs + just to drop a car off for tuning of if any troubleshooting is required afterwards) and then work out who is the best and what is their prefferred platform. Of course cost is an issue but you usually get what you pay for and a bad tune = the need for a new motor = prob not worth skimping $200 for the cheaper tuner... In a similar vein, avoid Mine's tuned ECU's. not going into why here. General consensus is that PowerFC or Z32+nistune is the way to go. Take into account whether having an aftermarket computer puts you in easy defect territory too (if so- nistune)

i remember having a suspension bush knackered that clunked. Not that bad from memory though. If fixing the mount doesnt fix it then start with bushes and your coilovers.

Hey people, about to replace the radiator and hoses on my GTST n wondering what the diameter of the stock radiator outlet pipes is? need to know for ordering replacement radiator and also a tefba filter. Id obviously just pop the hose off and measure myself but iv got my temp sensors in there and all sealed up so didnt want to have to dick that around just to find out the diameter if somebody knew offhand... from what i can tell it is either 1.25 inches or 1.5 inches cheers J

Sorry mate, there is no way we can make sense of your situation based on the description you just gave. If you are unsure of the offset (of either your current rims or the 'GTR offest') then you have no chance of urself or anybody else undersatnd and solving ur issue. 10's can fit without too much trouble but they have to be the right offset... Otherwise take the time to scroll thru the pages of info here and you will find an exact of similar case of what you are asking which will answer you question...

On a gtst? Ur going to have to run heaps of camber to get mexico not to tear your arches/tyres to pieces... Or just raise it heaps n let mexico hang out... here is mine with 18x8.5 +36 front n 18x9.5 +36 rear. rears are dead flush with the guards at .5 degree of camber and lowered. fronts sit in a bit but are just right so they wont rub on any points except if turning sharply and suspension is compressed.

can you say why specifically?

doh, i just bought 8000k for mine- very blue Is that illegal or something? Not overly fussed about visibility as its a city car in perth. It doesnt rain much n u could also drive with your headlights off half the time n not notice with the street lighting...

if you get a chance get the nismo coppermix. Got one in mine @250kw n it is the ducks nuts. So well sprung n easy to use. U can take off softly like a stock clutch or have heaps of clutch feel+grip on a hard launch to get the best take off. I murder peeps with buttton clutches all the time cos they either bog down or wheelspin. N they have to live with that heavy on-off shit. I love mine so much it makes me sleep easier..

I just thought some more about this- It aint right. Unless you are living in a very low temp area (snow areas) and have a low temp thermostat... An OEM R33 thermostat doesnt start opening until the 70's so there is no way the water in the motor could stay that cold without flowing thru the radiator, and a very cold radiator at that...

yeah no shit hey. I might be a bit more casual in the installation then. Yeah, a flush should do her fine i think skylines do seem to like to build up gunk at this age tho that clogs radiators... both of my skylines have done it now as well as several friends of mine. Alas

yeah but its a brand new one in there n also all of the gasket sealant job which is all working perfectly. If i get in there something might f*k up n ill be dealing with something else... But ur right, ill prob just have to man up on it