jjman

yeah seems like the comprehensive way to do it. Tho i just did the thermostat so dont really want to pull that whole job apart again just to flush... guddammit will defaintely do the heater core flush though n out the back of the motor from the drain plug. might sus it on the day as to how patient im feeling n whether to get the thermostat out n flush right down to there. might just put in a TEFBA filter n be done with it that way...

ah yep. goood point. Cheers. my only other concern in this process is that am i likely to dislodge some crud in the system that could lodge in the turbo's coolant supply? (my nice new HKS turbo that i want to life a long and healthy life...)

good except that it is not replacing the RB25 turbo's achillies heel- the ceramic turbine wheel. u want one that replaces that. Otherwise you could rebuild it only to have it shit itself 10km later...

yeah i was figuring on having the car dead cold n starting the flush that way n then starting it after a while n turning on the heater to flush the core out. Prob only run it for 60 secs like that... shouldnt cause any probs should it?

how would i do the bottom hose? the thermostat will be closed n block any water coming out no? i was planning on sealing the garden hose onto the top radiator hose n just blasting it until what comes out the drain plug looks clean.... shall i run the car at the same time n turn on the heater to open the heater core?

Already done yeah im pretty good with bolts n my mate has a 4 point hoist so should be able to get at it ok...

Ok ill look into one of those. Any more opinions on now effective flushing the motor will be with a hose n opening that back drain plug?

Ah ok, so if I drop that plug n then blast a hose into the system thru the top hose should flush it pretty good? Sufficiently u think?

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...) So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it. My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill? Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator... then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)... thoughts/ experience?

But if u have a properly working thermosat it should self regulate the temps regardless of the radiator temps??

and again today! Dude you just moved into the neighborhood or what? I see you most days now... BTW, be careful driving around Curtin. We have lots of international students who either cant drive or shouldnt drive (legally) but do, and its dangerous as shit. iv avoided about 20 accidents (not kidding) over my 3 years there and also been cleaned up once.

silver R35 GTR. Seen you 3 times in the last week around Curtin in Bentley. I was in my red R33 gtst twice n my black R33 with Jun kit on it once. Good to see a GTR getting driven how it should be

is this for a GTST? if so you are dreaming. Or crossing the border into mexico in a bad way. if you can be bothered check thru the 'car parts' for sale section. There was a guy selling rims like this which he ahd on his GTST (red one from memory). There are pics. If its your thing then go for it. But defect notices are also the cop's thing

yes. Go for a DIY one. Look in the DIY section for CAI boxes. Bunnings perspex...

hahha, iv got a series 2 i bought but need a series 1. I wish you had put this in the original sale note! could have swapped. msg me if ur still chasing a series 2. Its sitting in my shed.

maybe, maybe not. at stock ride height probably but otherwise it would be touch n go. Tho u will also get away with it if you run stretched tyres. (but please dont, its sacrilidge...)

yeah ok i see your evidence on the debate. But the other half of the skyline/tuning group puts the tick in the splitfire box. So ill concede that the jury will forever be out deliberating on this one...

u for real? whys that? splitfires are known to be able to perform better, esp under higher stresses/hp.

i dont think they have done that bad a job. These cars are usually between 12-17 years old now. N for what they do (and how much more we get them to do) n how well they hold together is quiet an achievement. [hyundais cant even seem last 10 years at 100hp out of a 2litre!] its a part that breaks down over time. perhaps particularly in the aussie heat conditions (that they werent designed for). N for what its worth iv run the cover off for 2 years with no probs (on spitfires). Tho got a custom vented one to go on so it looks a bit more kosher for the fuzz. (its all looking pretty modded under there now so dont want to give the boys an excuse if they arent happy with my style...)

cool. now makes obvious sense why this component would want to be working correctly then

one final questoin for you. How does this cooling system work vai the thermostat. by this i mean- after removing the housing it looked like the thermostat appears to completely block the flow of coolant (unless of course it opens.) is this the case? and if so what is the water pump doing when the thermostat is closed?

all good! tho u have pretty small spacers on there so often you can get away with this. result!

make sure she is all bolted up properly n then take it out for a run on the freeway and see if you have any steering vibration. (or does it wander easily or tramline etc)

well spacers are always an option in their own right. but there are several issues with them. 1- they are illegal in most states (defect notice material) 2- it is very hard to get the wheel centred on there well with spacers which = vibration through the steering and excessive wear on your wheel assembly/steering system 3- it can also upset the handling hmmmm

i had identical sypmtoms to this when i did the thermostat housing on the weekend and disconnected/reconnected alot of the connections in that area. What it ended up being was these 2 connections arrowed in the pic. -i had only hand tightened them and then when the temp got up the connection went bad n the car kept conking. Not sure where these are on a GTR but might be worth checking to see if they have come loose or there is a connection for them damaged. Good luck