jjman

cool. replaced it on the weekend. All seems to be working alot better now (warm up and also maintaining temp when driving.) cheers again for the info mate. You're a champ.

did this job on the weekend. when i got the existing thermostat out, while it didnt look terrible or have any visible problems, it didnt look great either. Also i then worked out what part of the mechanism moves and it seemed to move alot more easily than the new one i had. anyways, since putting in it has definately stabilised the temps so seems to have been the culprit. I did however take the long way round and removed my FMIC piping and all of the wiring harness in the area to do the job, see the DIY pic 7 (above) n you can see all of the wiring i moved to have better access n also ensure i didnt get coolant on any of those wire that might have holes in the coverings now... id say it was prob about a 3 hr job at an even pace doing it all properly. i.e. removing the wiring from that area, draining radiator system, cleaning up the thermostat housing and where the housing bolts to the block, then making sure i bled all of the air out of the cooling system after finishing the job. Tho also add another 30min for the trip to repco to buy a socket extender to be able to get at the rear bolt on the housing.

would fit well and not require any mods to the guards as far as i can tell even when fitting full width tyres to those rim sizes. (235/35 & 265/35). Cant garuantee it will if you plan to dump it on its arse tho... Also cant comment on whether the spokes will clear the calipers but by the look of the design and the offset it should do.

rears would be ok but the fronts would be swallowed up under the guards with that kind of width n offset- n look shit IMO.

yep its in the lower hose. Gotta admit thought that all i can see happening when i undo those 3 bolts on the thermostat housing is coolant pissing out of it, and alot of it. The level of the housing is halfway down my radiatior. So wouldnt half my coolant come pissing out?. Also how do these thermostats work? Iv got the a replacement OEM one and i can see the spring and mechanism on it but cant move any part of the mechanism by hand (tho im not applying much force as im not sure if trying to move the mechanism by hand is bad for it). How does temperature make the mechanism work? theres no solenoid on it or anything... cheers

you note that you could tell that your thermostat was faulty and not opening properly. How can you tell that? iv got the replacement one from nissan ready to go n i cant get it to move in any direction (not that im applying that much force to it as i dont know how they work n dont want to break a $60 part before i even get it in...) can u usually move the mechanism with your hand? Also what kind of sealant did you use? gasket sealant (like what i just used to do the half moons on the cam covers?)

never forget the nissan pulsar. my mum had one a few years ago n we hammered the hell out of it and it just asked for more. (n15 model, tho N16 would also be in your range i think) ran on the smell of an oily rag. Good unit

If you dont have your own known and trusted place id go to the insurer's repairer if convenient. that way any issues have easy and fully ability for recourse. references through mates 'who say they are awesome' or even on this forum should be treated sceptically at all times if you ask me...

gold. i wonder if they will find a Yakuza ritualistic killing soon of the driver that caused the whole pileup. Man, how would you feel creating a bingle like that... (10 in hospital too)

cool. Another query i have (excuse the ignorance) is that if i replace the thermostat does that also include the temp sensor in the 1 unit or is it a different component? Im just htinking i could replcace the thermostat n still be seeing stange temp behaviour if the sensor is also faulty..? also how much of a job is it to change the thermostat? do u have to drain the whole cooling system? any gaskets or seals need doing?

touted as 'the most expensive crash ever' http://news.sky.com/home/strange-news/article/16123773 http://www.news.com.au/world/eight-ferraris-tangle-in-most-expensive-crash-ever/story-e6frfkyi-1226213870366 - news report video (in japanese but has footage of the aftermath...) what a yard sale

Arrr, to remove my boss kits I always had to remove the steering wheel... It must be still on if it is bending while u are trying to remove the boss kit right?

ahhh, this sounds good. I was planning on getting a consult cable and logging software. I didnt realise you could see the coolant temps in digital degrees format though. back to the issue at hand tho. The readout ill obtain from the consult interface with the OEM temp sensor- how accurate would this be? or is it still a bit ambiguous? If it is accurate i might just check and monitor it this way and therefore avoid installing the whole aftermarket temp sensor and associated gauges...

Hi, i want to buy a vented bonnet for my series 1 R33 GTST. Fibreglass is fine and preferable due to cost. Also happy to repair a damaged one too as doing a fibreglas repair and car respray atm. tho if it is a minter in black then im happy to pay a premium... im after this style (photo), i think it is called t-style, with the type with the big main vent- not the multi slitted one that seems more common now. let me know 0410 504403

check this thread and you will get a sense of it... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/382455-r32-rb26-ecu-choice/

Amen. Big home projects always end up doing your head in. Unless you are very skilled at the task you are setting out to do, have surplus cash ontop of what you think it will cost (cos shit always goes wrong or unexpected things come up) and alot of time so you dont end up going f*k god make this end soon- then you are going to have your head done in. GTST's are so cheap now that DE+T's or RB25DE to DET swaps are just the biggest waste of time. Then again, its shit like this that keeps darwinian selection in motion. You waste all your time n money on stupid shit n the smart ones use it to make a shitload more money...

cool. cheers for that. Perhaps my best line of attck would be install the temp sensor and be able to get a sense of what my temps are actually doing n then act accordingly. As noted, the stock gauge is a bit of a joke really...

thought so. cheers again peeps. Also is there any way to ascertain if the thermostat is working right? my car runs fine and normal and doesnt overheat but i notice if i drive on a really cold night the temp gauge goes back down quite low. (if normal operating temp is the usal dead flat 90degrees of angle on the dash temp gauge, or just below so prob 85 degrees of angle, id say when it is cold it drops down to about 70 degrees of angle)- see diagram Is this normal or perhaps is my thermostat sticking open and therefore letting too much cold water flow through?

cripes. whats the handling like with the wider ones at the front? does it tramline like a bitch or what? iv never been an advocate of spacers but in this case- maybe...

yeah i got the high grade silicone hoses n that stuff goes on and holds twice as strong as any vacuum hose iv ever come across. N just to be sure i have clamped or zip tied every one of the bastards anyways. aint going nowhere now.... e.g.

Hi people, just about to install the aftermarket coolant temp sensor and gauge. Just wondering, which radiator hose should i install it in? the top one or the bottom one? iv got no idea which way the coolant flows in those hoses n am sure it would be important with regards to which hose i put the sensor in...

make sure you go to a place that specifically does the Z32/nistune setup for R33's and tunes them for a set price. They are often a fair bit of trouble shooting to get all setup correctly so there is the possibility of a place screwing you by saying it will 'probably cost about x' but then give you a bill that is double that 'because it took so much work to get it setup right'. Heard this story quite a few times... And even though i went this route the first time and all was good. When i upgraded turbo, injectors and Z32 i went to a different place and when they said it would be about $300-$400 to tune as it would be just rescaling the existing tune and then adjusting for the new boost/turbo. Well when i went to pick it up there was a nice $1000 bill because 'we couldnt get it to work off the existing tune so we had to start again and tune it from scratch...'. F$%K. nice one....

well my engine bay is now all bolt clamped, blue silicone hosed, and zip tied to the max. Tested 18psi on it last night n all good. Motor also seems perfectly fine so some momentary det didnt harm her

cheers mate. yeah going to go and get those blue silicon ones. Also def going to put a clamp on it! f*kn hell. Such a small thing that can have disastrous consequences...

cheers peeps. Im going to replace the lines today and then take it for a drive and see if there are any anomolies indicating problems/damage. All feels fine so far so god damn are my fingers crossed...