jjman

Hey people. So on the weekend i was giving my car some WOT. 2nd gear wound out fine but just after i got into 3rd it pinged- 1/4 of a second's worth, i got off the gas straight away. Sounded like 5 or so audible knocks before i got off the gas. Turns out the vacuum line off my fuel pressure regulator popped off... Im putting it down to deteriorated vacuum line and a tune at a new boost level (18psi). Since then iv reconnected the vacuum hose. Car seems to start, run and drive fine still so Im assuming that the momentary detonation didnt do any damage... (tho i havent given it any WOT yet till i replace the vacuum lines) any thoughts on what would have caused this? deteriorated line not holding the 18psi or something more sinister? any thoughts on whether i would have done damage and how to check for it? im thinking that if i had done a ringland or a head gasket id know about it? (there is not smoke or anything coming out the pipe and no oil etc in the coolant) cheers J

yeah that should fit no worries as long as you dont intend to dump it 'hektic styles'. Tho im more thinking in terms of 18's so im not sure how much of a difference 19's would make. At stock ride height my 33 gtst took 18x9.5's +36 with 265/35/18's on and didnt touch the rear guards. (did when lowered tho) All things being equal tho. Be open to needing to cut/roll ur rear guard. Its no big issue if done right and offset never looks quite right unless the tyre is in the range of rubbing where that rear guard/lip is...

are you referring to Rb26's here with the front facing plenum or all RB's? (25 included- such as in the example of this thread?) I can see this being the case with the FFP of the 26's but not 25's. I thought the symettrical plenum on the RB25's would avoid this?

why not purchase one already in the state? that way you can inspect and be sure of what u are getting... market is nice n low right now so a nice 32 gtr can be picked up at a good price im sure...

this. You would be surprised how much you can actually win if you man up on it. Document things properly, calculate real costs, get a legal letter written up and see how quickly attitude changes.

daaaaamn. all that effort they will go to down there scares me on so many levels. meanwhile, the real criminals in the world are up to all sorts. Good work filth.

essentially, no. the amount of airflow these things can contribute is F-A, meaning they do.... F-A. And because they are bullshit and also made from such substance they have been well known to fail and break apart. And seeing as they are upstream of the intake, guess where the bits end up? and guess what they do? they should be renamed a 'rebuild catalyst'. N think about it, if something like this could actually make a difference the big manufacturers would be doing it.

yep. this is also the same situation as me. was worse after changing all the necessary bits n also varies in how n when it will do it. But usually when it is cold is when i can hear mine...

yep. mine is the same. took the cam cover off n noise went away... Im having it put back on atm n asking the place to put it back on with some rubber washers to stop the noise as it seems to be harmonic as it only occurs at a certian rmp range (around idle) will let you know if i find a fix...

no

the stock setup is a cold air intake so i assume u are trying to set this up on a pod filter that you are currently running?

well im not sure what to say but the fact is that its the O2 sensor that causes poor economy, particularly if u are still getting poor economy when driving the car nicely. They are less than $100 delivered from the business traders on here n u can change it yourself- peice of piss...

apologies if this has already been said before but i had a similar problem with economy in my GTS N/A. fixed it with brand new O2 sensor, new plugs, new air filter n cleaned the AFM. Then i reset the ecu. economy increased by 15%+ Usually the O2 sensor on the old N/A's is to blame. Cos they require less attention than turbo's people naturally give em less. So things like this go unchecked...

ha! give me some feedback on this then. My peice of shit bunky (1995 hyundai sonata- 2L 16 valve) started missing pretty hard recently so i decided to get in and change the plugs- see photos. I think the rings of the valve seals are pretty rude as it drinks oil n farts black smoke as a habit. check these plugs that came out. Also had lots of chalky residue on the top of the plug where the lead attaches (already cleaned off by this point tho as i didnt want any falling into the chamber as i changed em)- anybody have any idea what this is?

didnt know this. interesting.

yeah that would be the best bet as far as i could tell. Gotta say tho- plastic aint the best thing to have paint stick too properly under those conditions. Keep us update on how you go..

KU31's ftw in this scenario. N im sure more than enough grip for your purposes as stated, particularly in 255 profile form.

yeah we pay thru the nose for decent work here in perth... Alas. Hell we pay thru the nose n they often f*k it up anyway. Love perth for that (not)

*like yeah well it was $600 for the exhaust stud job and to have the turbo put on (also inlcuding cooling system flush and suspension traction bushes install ) then + $250 for all the studs, seals n gaskets. add to that 2k for the turbo, 1k for the injectors, $200 for the z32 afm, $150 for solid intake pipe, then over $500 for injector install and tuning well, we come up with similar numbers

nah i prefer to actually get power down as opposed to going for the cambered, stretched tyre look n with the front wheels sitting inside the guards n the rears sitting out where they are with no camber n the big tyres gives it a drag car look. Im happy with that

oh yes, to waste an Enzo like it is standing still. N then when he asks whats going on to give him the cold as ice "its stock". Priceless...

yep all sorted. nice new HKS turbo hanging off it too

just thought i would add a few pics to show people where the maximum rim size/offset lies for not having to run camber to make wheels fit and still being flush with 'unpumped' guards on the rear. So this is the rear of my R33 GTST. I have 18x9.5 rims with +38 offset. (Starcorp Racing Impuls- deep dish option) with 275/35/18 tyres on them. This car is lowered on BC coilovers and running .5 degrees camber (i needed adjustable camber arms to achieve this after lowering the car. On standard arms the most i could get to was about 1.2 degrees). As you can see these sit dead level with the guards with these rims n tyres. I did have to cut out the guard lip but did not 'pump' the guards at all. Just thought this might be a good reference point for those wondering what the maximum fitment was in this ballpark without having to run camber or pumping guards. Cheers Justin P.S. i won't comment on the front fitment of the Starcorp impuls as they do not sit flush with the guards (are a 18x8.5 +38)- they sit inside the guards. But what i do know is that they do not rub in any way shape or form with a 235/35/18 tyre and on lowered suspension.

so yeah. had my exhaust manifold stud n gasket done. There was actually 5 snapped studs in total that had to be drilled out but the guy managed it no worries and the manifold was within tolerances for straightness so it was able to go back on with the fresh studs n gasket.

Nice looking white R34 coupe on manning rd with the tall style rear wing (I was in the black 33). Is that spoiler a gtv or tommy kaira specific wing? I only see that type rarely...