jjman

u got this sorted yet? otherwise.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380308-rb25det-neo-head-manifolds-loom-ecu/

on this note. is that oil pressure gauge on the dash linked to the oil pressure warning light? so basically if the gauge is f*king up (which they are known to) does that mean that it will also send a false signal to oil pressure light? or are they separate? (hopefully)- tho hopefully not for you cos that woudl indicate that you do have oil problems...

cheers again for the responses people. Will check the No.5 when i change this next set of plugs for any similarity on the hex. I looked closer last night and there is indeed a very slight corona stain on that No.5 plug too (nothing on the others) so likelihood is that is was the oil that seemed down in that area.

right you are! always worth checking out how they started life though what does black interior refer too? dont all the R33's come with the same standard interior?

rough. dont go f**king your head up trying to do it yourself. Even seasoned home mechanics have recommended taking the head stud job to a professional...

Hi there, can i get a check on the vin on my car. ECR33008626 cheers mate Justin

u sure? the corona stain is indicated as occurring on the insulator section, n not the hex/socket (metal) as on mine..? If it is indeed a corona stain tho it would basically be the oil that had wept down in there had attracted to the hex section and burned on. No worries, and even less worries now that iv dont the whole cam cover seals and cleaned up all the oil that wept around. anybody able to comment on the state of the tips?

hey peeps, similar thing. I changed my spark plugs on the weekend and just wanted to get some thoughts on the state of them as i have no idea about plugs and what they can indicate etc. (click on pic for larger view) do these look alright? they are BCPR7ES plugs in a tuned 220rwkw RB25DET. car runs like a dream and makes great power for the mods. compression test a while back came up essentially perfect, catch can gets no blowby oil in it etc etc 2 main things i also want to query/comment on for these plugs tho. 1]the tips have a fair bit of brown on them. Tho i did also run octane booster tabs which ive now learned arent good on sensors or plugs n turn plugs brown. is this it in action? -i only used about 2 tanks worth of boosted fuel. N a fair while ago (1000+ kms). otherwise do these tips tell a story? good or bad? 2]one of the spark plugs (second from the left) which was from cylinder 5 is browned around the socket section while all the others arent (nice n silver as per pic). i have 2 possible causes- - the rocker covers had leaked quite badly around cyclinder 5 & 6 and there was a film of oil making its way down into the spark plug holes, so might have got a coating on it n burned on like that. - it did look like there was a possibility that the seal on the spark plug wasnt perfect as on one tiny part of the washer it looked like it had some carboning/burning so perhaps a bit of combustion gas forcing its way past... any thoughts n comments people? im new to the whole spark plug reading game...

iv never heard one but based n your symptoms and that you have 3 snapped studs (i take it 2 are on one header pipe?- so essentially no studs left holing that pipe on?) id say thats highly likely... Im putting mine in this weekend to have the manifold studs n gasket re-done. Ill let you konw how it goes n if the guy is decent, and what the price ends up being...

good lcuk.. n from what i can gather- faaark no to the rebuild kit. Turbo's also need to be spun up and balanced. N im guessing you arent going to be able to do that to it...? U can often pick up second hand R33 turbos for 150-250 these days. That'l see you through to the end of the year id say...

actually i endned up bailing the respray job after the time it took to get all of the intake shit off the motor to get at em properly and the exhaust shit too so i could clean up the oil weepage properly i was over it. Also after a good degreasing and clean the covers actually came up pretty good so was content to put em back in... I also didnt want to risk the job not turning out well n having anus looking covers in there. And i wouldnt have taken them back out after spending nigh on $200 for all of the seals, moons grommets... no thanks, not going to f*k that job up and end up back at square 1.

Yeah can do that. Etched primer work on that surface u think?

Sorry about the typos, my fingers r way too big for the HTC screen. I'm sure u can get what I mean tho...

Hey peeps. Taking off the cam coverages tomorrow to so the gasket seals n thought I might throw a layer of silver caliper paint on them. Has anybody tried this n will it stick properly? Or is the surface texture and/or the current factory paint going to mess up the new paint? Sorry if this has been covered before but I'm on my mobi n it can't so thread searches...

ba-bow... wrong answer jerry. yeah my NA with cat back was HEAPS louder than my current GTST with full turboback exhaust. NA's can get real loud real easy. But damn the multivalve straight 6 sounds soooo good right?

f*k.. im doing the exhaust manifold job next weekend. (first n last studs are snapped off) I havent got an exhaust leak or anything so praying its just 18yr old studs calling time as opposed to a warp. son of rajab please, have mercy on my wicked soul and forgive the manifold its sins!!!!

if only you were in WA...

colour? and a pic or 2 wouldnt hurt

yeah mine was exactly the same with the change based on temp... and most people note this. General consensus is timing belt noise. cant imagine being able to hurt the belt unless you are limiter bashing like a madman or mistook your taco for a gtr one seriously, work out when the timing belt (and water pump was done) they (and the rest of the 100k service stuff) are meant to be done every 100k or 10 years. Which ever comes first. i was only 50k past the last 100k service when my water pump died (caught it straight away so no damage done). But after reading/translating the japanese on the 100k service sticker i was able to work out it was on 10yrs since the job was actually done...

your theory is correct but you need to bring it back to the logic of, is the cltuch you have in there actually rated for the power (torque) you are putting through it as well as the way you use it (e.g. clutch pops in 3rd to get the boost up...?) if it is then a clean up could/should do the trick, depending on how badly glazed n hammered it is of course. otherwise, might be time to upgrade the clutch to take what ur throwing at it (3582 is quite the task master...)

ah yep. yeah I cant say it would be overly worth it. Id put that money into some fresh spark plugs, air filter, quality oil (s), clean the afm and a new O2 sensor- and even some new tyres. you will get way more of a performance enhancement from doing that than a blanket tune on an NA, especially if these aforementioned things havent been done...

how are you going to tune it anyway? R33 ecus arent tuneable so i take it you are about to be throwing 1k + at a PFC or nistune to get the aforementioned minimal (if any) gains to be found on RB25De's....?

never heard of a warped manifold before on an RB... are you sure this wasnt a mis-diagnosis due to the mechanic seeing the broken manifold studs n an exhaust leak n so thought that the manifold had warped when really it just needed a new exhaust manifold gasket n set of head studs?

not quite why the tex shat itself after i edited- here it is unadultered. If i was you id chase down the history of the motor. mine makes exactly this sound too, but only after having the cambelt , tensioner, pulley etc done. Its actually a pretty common noise from the kevlar cam belts. It often stops after a while as the belt kinda beds in i guess. Mine has pretty much stopped now. Having said that tho it can also be the sound of one of those components on its last legs and a cambelt failure isnt far away = fully lunched motor. Avoid like the plague.... has ur motor always made this sound or only just started to make this sound? if it has just started then its most likely time to do the '100k service'. If not it might be the noise of the kevlar belt if it was replaced in recent history...make sure tho. Also make sure the water pump has been done. It should have been done at the same time as the timing belt n they are known to let go n also can be a major problem... (obviously)

just about to do this job n have a query for those out there that have done it... some of the little rubber grommets that sit under the screws around the end of the cam cover n hold it down look pretty perished on mine. are these something that also needs to hold an oil seal and therefor need to be in good condition or what? n if they do need to be in decent condition are they just a standard grommet or are they something im going to need to source the specific OEM part for?