jjman

If i was you id chase down the history of the motor.<BR><BR>mine makes <U>exactly</U> this sound but only after having the cambelt , tensioner, pulley etc done.<BR>its actually a pretty common noise from the kevlar cam belts. It often stops after a while as the belt kinda beds in i guess. Mine has pretty much stopped now.<BR><BR>Having said that tho it can also be the sound of one of those components on its last legs and a cambelt failure isnt far away = fully lunched motor. Avoid like the plague.... <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt= src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/yucky.gif"> <BR><BR>has ur motor always made this sound or only just started to make this sound? if it has just started then its most likely time to do the '100k service'. If not it might be the noise of the kevlar belt if it was replaced in recent history...make sure tho.<BR><BR>Also make sure the water pump has been done. It should have been done at the same time as the timing belt n they are known to let go n also can be a major problem... (obviously)

yeah id say this sounds like turbo bearings going. mine di it as was the case with miga24. Pretty common on stock rb turbos, especially when u start winding the boost up. However how it occurs can vary but often it ends up taking out the rear turbine wheel when the bearings get so shit the rear turbine wheel falls apart from the instability/touching the housing. look at getting a new turbo soon. There is the outside chance you can lunch a motor when the turbo does end up failing totally...

definately. hahaha, u ready to cry people? Thru Shannons it costs me $550 a year to comprehensively insure my modded to the mother, HKS turboed, R33 GTST (n they know about the mods). (insured for 14k) Also $500 for my Suzuki GSXR 750. so that works out that i have an average of 575bhp per tonne (Veyron territory) comprehensively insured for an average of $525 per year (sorry, it always peps me up when i do those sums) yummy...

When did u last have the timing belt done?

ill take the clickers... tho usualyl this is some sort of a rubber tag on them that either hits a bodypart or flicks in the wind as it rotates...

what spring rates and damping setting you doing this on?

u note a 'new turbo'. What is this? pretty hard to find new stock turbos for RB25's so im assuming its either an aftermarket of high-flow?

im sure someone must ahve some 'stockies' lying around if that many different models will fit. Tho u are in canberra which is pretty low population so might reduce the chances...

Agreed, essentially this tho dont run out and buy 17's n new rubber if that is what you are thinking. Go for setup first. Second- Upgrade the tyres if you are chasing more grip and even get a tyre with a bigger sidewall to counter the effects related to the above comment about sidewalls and grip. last resort would be lashing out on new size rims n tyres in the pursuit of grip. i cant remember which episode it was but im prety sure top gear or some review show ran a car round the test track with the 'optional 20" rims' and then with the standard 18's or 19's. The 20's were way slower and more of a handful to control the car on... there is a reason F1 cars have sidewalls that are Huuuuuuge...

definately this. get something mad n british so it is cheap there too. e.g. an Ascari http://www.pistonhea...cari_kz1-24.jpg or Gumpert apollo (that british?, it woudl be cheaper in europe anyway) http://www.cartype.c...apollo_3_09.jpg -'oh,oh, boner alert' my mate did this n got the Corvette C6 'ZO6' model. the one with the handbuilt race-spec 7litre V8. 505hp off the showroom floor kids got it for 90k n they usually go for close to 200k here in aus...

yeah im on the 8/6 diet n its gold. In perth our roads are prety flat so not a problem. If you were in an area with shit roads maybe go the 6/4, but otherwise the 8/6 are the biz. prior to that i had 9/10 (thats right, 10 on the rear) n that shit was haaaaaaaaard. Slid like a champion tho n you could draw lines like a draughtsman... I suppose thats why they were call HKS Hyper D's (drift) tho...

i never got tired of drifting my NA R33 in the wet. It loved it, it needed it, it was insolent if i didnt. In the dry, yeah first gear eaily enough with WOT n some decent turn, second if you were really being mean to it and just crying out for a defect... 3rd? ahhhh, no, in a nutshell.... I also hear that some R33 N/A's came without a limited slip diff. If thats the case, avoid like the plague as it will surely hamper the drifiting efforts. Not at all hektic.

see the guy with the name 'boostn imports' in the business traders section. He sells em n shoudl be able to help you out with the direction to go in... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/292008-bc-racing-suspension-kits-for-almost-every-model/ Might i ask why it needs a replacement? Iv got BC's n interested to hear any comment on their reliability and what can make em fail... So far loving mine tho... No problems whatsoever

Amen, have a set of 8/6 in my R33 GTST. loving it. Firm and responsive enough to get really rowdy with confidence, soft enough to drive in every day and not wonder if it would have been better going for other coilovers/ spring settings.

yeah things are more expensive over here so beware. 5k might get you into something turboed but the insurance will kill you. Even 3rd party is pretty mad... Id say go for the SSS pulsar or an N/A Silvia/180sx. the reality is 5k is not going to get you a decent car that isnt going to give you trouble, cost you less than your first born to insure, or be cheap to run. Accept that... the prior generation of supras are pretty clapped out now, cost a fortune to keep on the road and arent really that good in the performance stakes... yeah vtec civic's n preludes are also worth a look in... good luck mate

would. N get rid of that stock dump pipe before winding the boost up, they are a tournique. How about high flow cat n fmic?

yeah here in WA (the rip off state) those are $86+. Unless anybody on here in WA know where to get Mobil 1 or Motul 8100 for under $80?

id say just do a long awaited mod to the skyline... New rims n mad sticky tyres? some kit? leather interior? something to fan the flames of passion that any of us would die for to have a 540hp 25/30 (you bastard)

about to buy oil for a change on my skyline. hve been running Mobil 1 but just shopped around n the best it goes for is $86.... N at the moment Castrol Edge sport (fully synthetic- at least in name) is $40. Im halfway tempted to go for this because less than half the price is a mad difference. Is it worth stopping lower? also im about to put in a new HKS turbo at the same time as the oil change n then of course she is going to be getting tuned, and 'enjoyed' thereafter... any thoughts from those in the know? Such it up n run the decent oil or is there not much in it n for less than half the cost just roll with the Castrol....? cheers Justin

nice. Classy and refined looking 4 door. Its how they should be done.

i bought my wheel n tyre package from Tempe 18months ago with KU31's on the rims. Tyres were good and less than 6months old (checked the manufacture date oval on the tyre). why dont you call temp n ask them what the age is on them? As long as tyres are stored in a good environment there is no reason that 12-24months age should be a prob for them from what iv heard.

most people just keep changing them for second hand ones that are going cheap. so keep running wiht that until you get a good one unless u want to lash the $ otherwise if you arent too bad with wiring you can set-up a thermofan. Free's up kw and responsiveness. prob about 100-200 for a brand new thermofan setup + temp swtich etc I did it, i love it. It runs cooler too...

hmmm, yes well this confirms what i thought... would have to rob from peter to give to paul. I might just see what putting in the camber arms can do for me. On that note, does anybody know what is the best camber for the balance between longitudinal traction and lateral traction? At the moment im at 1.2 degrees from memory which is as straight as i can get it at my current ride height on stock R33 camber arms. Iv heard .5 degree is about best...? As far as all the bushes n freeplay goes im hoping its not to bad. iv never had any symptoms of anything prior to this n this was a pretty extreme setting so for normal to even spirited driving i think everything might still be working well enough. N its not that i wouldnt want to get it done if it needs but a modified R33 is always crying out in numerous ways for $, time and attention right? which means it becomes a priotity list depending on the need at any given time... n the current top of the list is the camber arms, and fitting the fresh HKS turbo iv got sitting there waiting for action (stock turbo @15psi is screeching real bad) and doing all the exhaust manifold bolts n gaskets. Cheers again for the thoughts n advice people.

yeah right. Cos the reputable garage im speaking to says put in the traction pineapples that tilt the subframe a certain direction which = more grip. But. 1: usually with anything there is a tradeoff otherwise the factor would have done it like that or everybody would do it aftermarket 2: a garage has the agenda to sell me something and make a profit so its not unbiased...

Hadn't gotten around to putting up a pic yet so thought id throw this one up i took on my camera phone when parking at work the other day n thinking what a sexy bitch she was as i was walking away 93 GTST. Gloss black with 400R front bar n side skirts. Jun rear pods. GTR spoiler. A new front windscreen n nice fresh tint all round. Sits on BC adjustable coilovers and wheels are Starcorp Racing Impul 18's in deep dish rear option (8.5"Front, 9.5"Rear) with the polished metal lip and gloss black centres. Tyres are 235/35/18 & 275/35/18. So need to get some black slimline plates for it... Interior is also modified n sweet n will get around to throwing up some pics soon. Enjoy