jjman

"that sound' is always going to sound bigger and better on a bigger and better turbo for sure. The HKS 3037 Pro also makes that sound but in a less powerful way than the T51R because, well, it is a less powerful turbo. If you get the surge slots in your turbo it will probably be like this. Decent and what you are after, but it is never going to have that 'end of days' sound like a T51R spooling up. eg this vs this 3037 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzN5uolGKII (0:24) T51R https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU5YT2jqcmA (1:18)

Hypergear thread http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-516?hl=%2Bhypergear#entry7404477 a lot of reading in there but best thing is to see if you can get a ride/drive in a skyline that have had turbo/tune etc and find out what you like in terms of the power v lag equation. here is also a good read once you start getting your head around power and turbo etc. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

hey, don't get me wrong. I love a better diff. Ill have a better diff. But when there is usually always something to have money spent on in a skyline then jumping at this one unnecessarily its just not something id recommend. If he was going to be tracking a lot, then yeah for sure do it. As is said, id go for tyres n suspension upgrades before a diff if the stocker is working ok.

id say drive the car first and see how the diff is behaving. also in relation to your driving style and power levels you are achieving. An R33 VLSD in good condition isn't a bad bit of kit and if it working fine then I don't see the point in throwing money at a diff. There are always plenty of places to throw money at a skyline. Id throw money at good tyres and suspension before changing out a diff that was performing ok.

RB25DE's aren't that economical for the power they put out- by todays standards. They are also fairly revvy for a 6 cylinder which means you will, and it will use more juice. Normal city driving will see 10-12L per 100km. Pod filters will only make you use more fuel as they are basically a hot air intake that doesn't enable any easier breathing of the motor. Leave on stock airbox for best economy and power. They are reliable motors but are getting older now and have probably had km wound off them in the import process. Don't do the GT+T thing or putting in a GT-T motor into the GT chassis. It is a silly waste of time and money vs selling it and just buying a turbo when the time comes.

not sure if you have one already but a nice cat back exhaust on an N/A really is a wonderful sound. Also a job you can do yourself and cheaply too if you pick up the cat back 2nd hand. Don't be tempted to go for a GT-T cat back though as the turbo exhaust are too open and loud for N/As. It will drone...

when I bought my GTS (R33 N/A) it had a pod filter on it. Didn't make one ounce of different noise than the stock box. I changed it back to the stock airbox as pod filters are just shitty hot air intakes asking for a defect on an N/A.

front will be fine with a 245 or something and maybe pushing the guards back a bit. rears will be a bit of fun. its going to sit outside the guards so you will need to roll the rear arches, put camber on it and probably also run a 245. I hope that is the look you are going for...

no they wont be legal. 2 reasons 1st is they wont sit inside the guards. 2nd is that yes there is a limit to how much wider you can go from stock rim width and im sure a 10" rim is it. I remember checking one time if my 9.5 inch rims would be too wide and indeed they were. I think it is 1 inch wider or something boring like that. However you are unlikely to get any greif from this too much, the wheel outside the guard will be the one that gets you (as well as the high camber and stretched tyres to make it fit) GL

I had an 8hp atw gain when I swapped from the stock rubber pipe to an alloy one. Also no more warmer weather suck-shuts. FTW

So this then begs the question, what is the point of all of this octane rating in these fuels? Obviously I get the E85 thing but to be doing a 107 octane version of it- why?

I know its going to be saying something that you note as having already considered. But that you are considering it (a DE+T and with head transplant to boot) im sure you must not have considered all the elements associated with it... Please keep reading about the cons of a DE+T until you have realised its not worth it. Otherwise, on a positive angle, if it is about the enjoyment of working on cars and making them better then consider getting a cheap GTS-T and modifying it. If you are doing a lot of the work yourself then this will also be an enjoyable process and also one that doesn't have to be too expensive...

how often you change it with oil like that? also what mods you have and what sort of work does the car get?

Ah, interesting. Cheers for clarifying that. Loving the sheep dip call So what is it that racers are utilising when using the very high octane race fuels? IS that when they have mad compression ratios? or is this the whole 'highly oxygenated' thing mentioned above?

first and foremost- probably this. Especially if you are in a state with the laws preventing turbo ownership on P's or whatever it is. You guys have madly inflated N/A skyline prices. Otherwise, the N/A R33 is your best bet (2.5L > 2.0L any day. Also a newer car). The Type S model in particular which saw you with the turbo bodykit as well as a LSD and slightly more power. They are particularly great to drive if they have some aftermarket suspension. Also the motor is nice and sounds beautiful with a cat-back exhaust. This is the model of NA R33 I had with such mods and I really enjoyed it. No they aren't that powerful but they aren't slow either. No they aren't good on fuel, especially for the power they put out.

more knock resistance is ALWAYS good as long as it doesn't cost you power. Beyond that it also means you can tune it harder. Also a good thing.

yeah that's why you machine them to get rid of that lip that build up and reduces braking effectiveness and can also create excessive wear or damage to new pads. You replace rotors when they are worn to less than a manufacturers minimum thickness as beyond this point you can also suffer from reduced braking effectiveness as well as be more likely to warp a rotor etc. Its often a pretty conservative level though so unless you drive a car hard or track it you don't have to turf them the instant they near or reach the minimum thickness. If it is just the rear rotors then I definitely wouldn't worry...

Im thinking the reason that you perhaps have the leak out of the half moon seal is the setup you have pressurized the cam covers with your current setup Just vent atmo (including blocking the PCV valve) in a subtle way and be done with it. E.g. just like Ryno's setup above. The hose coming out of the can can go down to breathe out below the car (but made to look like it is going somewhere legit in case the 5-0 has a brief look under the bonnet...)

well it depends. If you can pick one up from a wrecker cheaply enough then seems ok. Also if you either know how to exchange the key barrel or perhaps even take it to a locksmith who in all reality can probably do it for 20 bucks... In this case, yeah it would probably be worth it. Be pretty cool to have a unique rear key cover on your GTR

with that offset and those tyres you should be fine (ultimately depending on how much you lower it though). Otherwise the rears will naturally get more camber as you lower it so it will fix itself anyway.

yeah swapping the locks/the whole unit isn't a hard job. But either just swapping the barrel or the flip-cover is...

by saying the 'flip up' bit, I assume you are referring to the Nissan charactered piece that covers the boot key hole? If so, this is the R33 series 1 cover. Probably pretty easy to find at a wreckers but from memory its hard as fk to change just the cover, so you would need to change the key barrel too to retain the cover. Also keep in mind that these are a resin or plastic piece so they are often showing signs of age... But yes, in perfect condition I did prefer them to the brushed metal look of the series 2 ones.

double post :S

its an auto too?! fk it. do it. One less auto in the world is a better place Joking. Seriously, don't do it. If want turbo skyline. Sell non-turbo - buy turbo. Win.

This, don't do it. Also saying you are getting the gear from a DET. do you mean a neo det or r33 det? You also know that you will need a computer and tune for it to run properly. The stock det computer is expecting a motor with, well, the det's characteristics. I.e. the compression ratio and cam durations etc. So it you run that it will probably end up grenading your DE+T Did I say don't do it?