jjman

white R33 s2 at curtin today. n those 2 black 34's. n that white 34. n a gtr. im going to stop spotting. this is wearing me out...

Exactly. Im now into DOUBLE FIGURES on people i know (or know of) with R33 GTST's that have blown a motor with a mines Ecu. (piston ringland 95% of the time) they do feel great and transform a stock car but it is not worth the price you ultimately pay

hahahha, i like where your head is at. That would make an awesome pic too... I can probably get a few extra staff permits for the day so we can all park up happily.

while the whole fuel pump questionis a very good one and one that many more people should ask. The real question that you should be asking is- who's your nearest engine rebuilder...

sounds good! Im busy as hell atm n away for work for all of sept so for me it will have to wait until Oct...

yeah i had the 'type M' GTS which came with the GTS-T Type M bodykit and a bit more mumbo (about 3 or 4kw more) This one def had a nice tight LSD on it that feels exactly the same as the one on my current GTST. Not sure if they put different ones on different specs of the non-turbo...

Ding- on the money Chris. Also builds a good appreciation of the purchase

yeah i know of about 6 skylines that are there day in day out at curtin, not including these 2 GTR's mentioned recently. hahaha, the Curtin security are mall-cops, unless you are robbing n raping which is the main problem we have had here over the last few years. Then they will beat you to a pulp One of my ex-students has a 450atw R33. He used to fry some major tyres at Curtin in the car-parks n all the security used to do was say 'please stop doing that'. Tho after about 9 months they said they had gotten approval to sanction his results n stop him from graduating if he did it again so he toned it down. on a side note- have also had an 'international student' crash into me in my last R33 around curtin. He couldnt speak english for shit n didnt have a license so dragged his ass down the 'station.

post-grad business management, co-ordinate master's industry internships, undergraduate organisational behaviour. n thats just the lecturing side u? perhaps we should put together a 'Curtin cruise' sometime.

ive owned this model of car previosuly n then sold it on to my mate who bought it for his daughter on her 18th. She ended up selling it for 2 reasons. 1: fuel consumption. It is high on these for the size of motor and in comparison to a small 4cyl. you need to feed it premuim to be caring toward it and you will not see below 10L-100km unless you baby it like nothing else (id put money on your son not babying it). 18yr olds seldom have the money to pay for this unless they are working alot or drive very little... 2: this is a tricky car in the wet. With the HICAS (4 wheel steering), limited slip diff, no traction control or stability control, skinny stock tyres and reasonably torquey motor it is very easy to get this thing out of shape on damp or wet roads. This happened to her a couple of times and scared her silly. She was a good driver but 18yr olds, no matter how much talent and training they have, can fully understand the road like an experienced road user and know how every combination of corner, road camber, standing water etc etc will affect the car. If you can take it for a spin on a wet day and 'provoke it' in a safe environment to get a sense of what i mean... I hate to be a nay sayer but its definately worth thinking about these factors before committing to this purchase. N if he does get it, get him some advanced driver training... cheers Justin

yeah i think i know your one. I do 10-6 so i can never find a park up on the double decker.... the ones in the paid parking are usually my international students. (im a lecturer in CBS) the best i ever saw was a geeky looking chinese guy, on his P's, in a Lamborghini Diablo. Bastard. Drove it like mis daisy too.

Damn, im parking up the wrong end of uni (CBS north side staff car park) i only ever see two black stock 34GTT's. One has rims, but meh. These guys are game bringing their GTR's to Curtin. Parking bays are shit small n staff dont have a clue. Ive had a monster door ding from Curtin parking that had to be panel beaten n repainted ($) As such i never bring my skyline to work anymore...

mine was doing the same thing and was pissing out of the 'inspection hole' (i think that is what the mechanic called it) on the front of the water pump.

had exactly this a while back but noticed it as soon as the temp began going above normal and as i pulled to the side of the road the steam which had been unnotcable driving at speed was apparent as it was coming from the sides of the bonnet. Stopped it and had it towed to the shop n put it in for a full 100k km service (timing belt, water pump, seals etc etc). All good thankfully. No damage done whatsoever.<BR><BR>U've got the prob of ur thermostat playing up so you dont know how hot it really got.<BR>Doesnt sound good tho if the car conked out on you...<BR>fingers crossed that ur as lucky as me though.<BR><BR>Good word of advice though, check your dates on the last 100k service (find a import specialist shop who can read the Jap dates if its pre-import). If it is impossible to tell when it was done or if it was done more than 5-7 years ago n before importing then get it done. Not worth the risk of the water pump or timing belt letting go n killing your engine... <BR><BR>my 100k service was 'only 50k kms ago' (importing may have changed that figure tho) but 8 years ago. Ad to that the muck that can accumulate in the cooling system during the import process and the expected life may not be 10 years (which is the maximum that the 100k service parts are rated too)

beautiful and immaculate black Rx7 FD (RZ by the look of it) doing sound-checks with me in the tunnel on sunday arvo around 2pm. Ill admit your sound-check was the better by a long shot.

yeah mate it is likely to be this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/206019-annoying-clicking-noise/page__hl__Aircon+clicking years ago when i had a 33 that did this i was looking at getting in there and fixing it and found another tutorial on how to get to that servo motor that causes the clicking/pulsing without taking the dash-pad off but im not going to spend 30mins searching for it- thats your job. I remember the tutorial had a step by step guide on how to DIY fix-it with pictures with it too. You'll know the one when you find it cos the guy stabbed himself in the finger with a screwdriver in the job and had to get stitches (photo for that too) so youll know the one when you find it. good luck.

silver R33 GTR with full top secret bodykit at Karawarra shopping centre car park.

nice silver R34 GTR in Leederville last night around 8. Nice park man, showcase the 'R

I think that might also have the hks stamp on it too for those kinds of figures... what turbo btw?

ah cheers for that clarification. Ive never known how they run on rb20's. im a 25 man myself and what i illustrated above was on a 25. sounds like they are happy to flow more psi on the 20 due to the smaller cc's and exhaust flow...

btw- just to clarify. while we say we push these turbo's to 'X'psi this doesnt mean it holds this boost right through the rev range. This is just the max boost it made in the midrange. Its commonly known its pretty hard (and otherwise abusive) to get a stock turbo on an RB25 to hold anything above 11.5-12psi to redline as its well out of its efficiency range. Hence why keeping them at 10-12 pis is usally best because its in the relative efficiency range.

relatively yes.tho one cannot work well without the other working well and its a strange reciprocal relationship which brings us to an interesting point. We all know that our love for low profile tyres ruins our traction right? if current trends were still that massive sidewalls were cool we would all have way more traction... Look at F1 cars and drag cars. Not much low profile action going on there... however all of this is thrown on its head by the nature of all of these forces INTERACTING with each other. So basically having traction in cornering is something that is f*king with the equation for having traction in a straight line, so often things are a compromise making the best of forces in other equation meaning a reductoin in performance in another area. SO for grip in motorsport this includes braking, cornering (high speed corner grip, low speed corner-grip), acceleration (low speed acceleration, high speed acceleration), stability (straight line and corenering), turn-in etc etc etc. And all of these elements are often having to compromise for a gain in other areas. Then you throw in the motor's characteristics and whether it is smooth or has spikes in torque and the calculation of all these elements starts again. And again for differnet tracks and and, well you get the idea. All this is the reason Rossi cant make the Ducati bike go faster... Their balance of these equations isnt as good as other bikes/riders/teams.

All of these arguements are correct (quoted a few of them below for illustration's sake) but you are also missing one key ingredient in this as to why torque is more likely to create wheelspin when there is a spike in torque, also why sometimes it does and doesnt produce wheelspin even when there is a spike in torque. Again- mothor of a thing to explain but here we go... The missing variable here is the suspension. A fast increase in torque (for those still confused on this just call it power but those of you who know it is to do with torque specifically) will not be able to give the suspension time to compress with the force, creating weight transfer and pressure on the tyres, and thereby create traction. So essentially there is less pressure on the tyres, which means there is less available traction. this is why 'softer' (in a simple manner of speaking) suspension is better for straight line traction (unless you have drag spec tyres and a wheelie bar) because softer suspension is in fact delivering more pressure on the tyres under acceleration in a straight line. so essentially as long as the suspension is able to compress enough to create sufficient force on the tyres to make traction then even large spikes in torque (power) occurring will not create wheelspin. The bottom line is that it is more likely to create wheelspin because it is giving the suspension (and tyres which are a part of the suspension) less ability to take up the force and create traction. This is given in a real world example by Harey (quoted immidiately below) and how it relates to how the suspension is able to cope with the force being given to the tyres. Having said all this, it is still a bigger issue than all of what is captured here due to all the INTERACTING aspects of physics that have already been highlighted plus even more- you want a real head-f*k then throw in later/cornering forces into the equation. But the bottom line is that you do indeed need to understand the difference between torque and power to truly understand how it works. Beyond this, if you want a real interesting read on some aspects of this and also in particular how the tyre is working in this equation look up the development of the 'big bang' motors in MotoGP. This principle basically revolved around the fact that they found more traction by NOT having even firing intervals by the pistons but firing (on a 4 cyclinder motor) a couple of pistons in closer order (say at 90deg and120deg ), then a big gap then the next 2 firing at 220deg and 250deg... ON the surface of it peak torque was higher but the truth lay further below in how it was generating more traction. It even confused the shit out of the traction engineers/scientists for a while

because most RB25 turbo's have the plastic compressor wheel which can also shit itself pretty easily at the same time the ceramic wheel lets go, hence the big fear. And as this plastic wheel is on the intake side it can suck the plastic bits into the motor n require a rebuild. Iv got the alloy wheeled S1 turbo n have that bad boy wound up to 15psi (for 1 yr n had it at 12psi for a year before that). No problems at all. Nonetheless, from what i can gather it is still possible (but far far less) to fracture the compressor wheel if the turbo failure is bad enough (shearing the shaft which then means the compressor wheel gets really loose or pops off n does indeed break off bits of the blades on the compressor housing). As far as how it would spin on a 20 i cant comment. But your arguement sounds reasonable. Tho it would be a bit rough of us to tell this guy in the states to wind up this turbo 'as you shouldnt have any trouble' only to indeed have it shit itself and do some damage to his motor...

yeah, still got that ceramic exhaust wheel... up to you. Id say keep it below 12psi n work pretty quickly towards getting it highflowed or upgrading.