jjman

yeah from my knowledge the very final series of turbo's to go on the RB25 Neos were a Garrett unit instead of the nissan ones that have the 45v4 etc on em. From what i can gather this means this was prob the best stock turbo to grace an RB25... Also has an alloy compressor wheel, which = Less chance of the compressor wheel falling to bits in going into the intake... lucky guess- is it this unit in the pic? http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5622698 also check the bottom of this page. http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry1279551

was it the original ecu for the car or a replacement one you bought? if so it might be for a series 1 auto or something a bit different that is pissing it off...

ive heard Hayabusa turbo's are pretty safe. i mean they only lift the front wheel from the power until about 280km/h n then its pretty stable... http://www.youtube.c...FC7ADCDEBC9CF8E

those buttons are actually really easy to fix (did it on mine). otherwise its impossible to say how long those cogs/buttons will last. Tho if your buttons are already mashed then that a good indication on how much work the vent cogs have had... good luck on the cost and 'soft hand' a mechanic will use on it. Id say keep at it yourself... also search through the maintenence section as im sure this has happened to somebody else before...

cheers mate. will give him a buzz.

no but id say a really high proportion of skylines get around with a couple of broken manifold studs with no problems at all. hence the question whether i can just continue with this status quo. I dont think many skylines, or cars, get around with a broken wheel stud. anybody could realise that this is likely to fail due to the obvious forces put on it and that when failure occurs its going to be ugly. Both conditions that arent present in the head stud issue. Interesting analogy though.....

yep. so basically keep digging deeper into the system till you find the cause. Id say it has something to do with the electric system that swaps the blowers from body to feet etc. Often these systems get the skyline 'click click' going on which is the gearing wearing out but it sounds like yours has gone to the next level...

probably had 215/19 Nexens stretched on chromed, mexican 10 inch rims with 5 degrees of camber (and telling all his mates he crashed cos of 'that f*kn HICAS')

bingo. if they are genuine brand new JECS why would they need flow testing by him? Plus, any place with a half good manufacturing procedure wouldnt mark their goods in the testing phase. I bet he just says 'marks from the flow testing' any time he is queried n people always just accept it or suck it up.

God bless mirrabooka....

where i got mine. http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?cid=74&scid=13 pricey but worth it being the genuine article and also being in australia means following up with issues is more straight forward and possible + spending $ in Australia = win.

exactly, stock Rb injectors are JECS injectors. and the Nismo and HKS injectors etc are simply rebranded JECS injectors albeit the higher cc ones. however that doesnt detract from the fact that these internet 'JECS' injectors are a highflow on 2nd-hand stock JECS job, instead of specifically designed, brand new injectors at 550, 750cc etc that JECS engineered and manufactured themselves.

brand new injectors shouldnt have tool marks on them because the procedure they would use would avoid this at the factory during the flow testing procedure. Otherwise check his nozzle compared to the genuine ones on mine. Completely different...

yeah 90%+ of the JECS injectors out there are high-flowed 2nd hand stock injectors.... the pics iv uploaded are of my JECS 550's which as you can see are brand new and 12 hole sweet-hearts. Thats why you pay in the vicinity of $1000 for these kind of units... you should be able to pursue this sale for refund as its misleading/incorrect info on the sale site in saying they are brand new. Take it up with the seller/ebay/paypal. Also take some photos now to show the condition 'as they arrived'. Again, a little bit of research on the SAU site would have uncovered this common scenario for you before you sent money to 'the land of rising debt' instead of 'the land of the rising sun'. Common mistake though...

IMO unless you do this then you are either limiter bashing or not getting peak HP. otherwise if you are just cruising around then why would one need anything other than just a general feel. Doesnt really matter if it goes to 2800rpm or 3500rpm at 1/3 throttle really does it...? But thats not really the scenario for this quesiton is it?

yeah starting to get sweaty palms now...

ok cheers for that people. Will definately do it then... just to confirm based on my recent research- RB25DET studs arent too bad to get out yeah? basically you can get the manifold off and counter lock 2 nuts on the end of the broken stud and extract that way?. Or weld a nut on the end to grab onto? Its just that i went to a mechanic about this a while back (non import mechanic) n he was saying it is highly possible that it might require the stud being drilled out and a thread rebored into the block. Which as you can imagine = $$$$$$$$$$$$$ any indication of whether this ever ends up being the scenario?

So yeah, R33 with RB25DET. Standard fare of broken exhaust manifold studs- 2 of them, 1st n last ones, pretty generic The thing is i dont have any problems with the seal of the manifold. Though Im about to put another turbo on (HKS 2535) and wondering if this is a job that should be done prior to installing the turbo, or is it something that is likely not to really give me any trouble?. Obviously it would be a bitch of a thing to install the turbo n then have to pull it all off again to do studs cos i got a manifold leak.... Honestly im busy enough at so that rules out doing it myself (ill be doing the turbo install n thats my time budget blown). N its a pretty riduclous cost to have a mechanic do it- n i then might as well get him to do the turbo install at the same time = much more money again. thoughts n experience people?? cheers

im pretty sure that was me. U can see my car in my profile pic n garage if u look it up. Let me know if that was me or not. happy to disclose mods if u think it was me...

HKS it is- 2535 iv always liked the damn hot girls so i might as well apply my rule here too

any of the major shops Xspeed, hyperdrive, allstar garage etc. not sure what they would charge but it cant be too hard. Why dont you get onto the immobiliser install guy and take it up with him? usually u shouldnt f*k with any other of a cars systems if you are doig a job right so get him to hook it back up again...

thanks heeeeaaaps for that guys. This is the piece of the puzzle i think i was missing in making sense of all the contrary opinions on how these would perform- the whole t2x t3x housing and how it affects the flow based on what the turbine was setup to do. I always thought that it was really just to do with the flange design to the manifold and otherwise it was the size that counts (oh yeah, i went there). Turns out its more technical then... hahahaha, this makes more sense for the GTRS then. It really is like an ultra hot chick that performs in every sense but will only come to the party if you blow copious amounts of money on her. You can spend less but you wont be getting the same... hmmm, back to the drawing board then. Unless, stao. Can you theorise how either of these 2871r turbo's with .64 or .84 t3 rears would perform? will it still go pretty well or is it just going to be an ugly turbo combination that will dissapoint? which I guess is a pretty redundant question based on the above statement on the GTRS- which is a .64 rear housing... otherwise, the HKS 2535 might be a good bet?. One is up for sale on here second hand so maybe that is the best option right now (no matter what im not spending money for a HKS GTRS)

yeah did my homework before i did this. I have the series 1 turbo with the alloy compressor wheel which I could not find any evidence of it letting go. I only found evidence of the plastic/composite Series 2 compressor wheels letting go in the fashion you highlight and destroying motors. the ceramic exhaust wheel is another matter of course but doesnt end up in the motor requiring a rebuild.

yeah i gotta say that what you are doing is pretty strong behaviour that will yeild some rage or greif at some point im thinking. Of course the guy who knocked off your mirror is a prick but it is likely you will nearly (or actually) take a bike out doing that, and that aint worth it. Pretty surprised hearing that from a biker. Have a think about it mate...

Digging up an old thread here but im searching my balls off here for the last few months and even touching base with turbo technicians and builders n still cant seem to nut this one out. Essentially im still trying to decide on this .64 v .86 issue as well as the overall turbo. Basically i want as good a turbo response as possible on my RB25DET (R33)- while room for a bit more up top. Iv currently got the stock turbo maxxed at 1bar (14.7psi) which of course drops to 12psi at redline. It is pushed hard and has 300hp atw and is a dream to drive. Obviosuly it wont last forever (or long for that matter, but its been over 12 months now n no probs) so im sorting the upgrade before the turbo lets go, also id like to back the tune off a bit as its pushed pretty hard to go like it does right now. At the moment im looking at the Garrett GT2871R with a .64 rear housing (in a 6 bolt t3 so it goes straight in housing-wise to my R33). From all i can ascertain this is the turbo that is the basis for the RB25 HKS GTRS This would include either a 50mm compressor with 48trim, or 54mm compressor wheel with 56trim (tho this will perhaps be a bit laggy and run into surge?) In theory this should retain near stock responsiveness and deliver another 5-10% power up top (perhaps see 15psi to redline). anybody care to give me some info on this as every builder/tuner seems to have their own niche that they dont want to think out of. e.g. several that wont think anything less than GT30 tho ive driven these and for the street is not my cup of tea. im not fussed about the boost dropping off in the higher revs. I just want great response for a great street car (without shelling out massive $ for a HKS GTRS or 2535) comments from people who know and even better from people who have done it??...