jjman

had similar issues. Was the radiator blocking up. They are almost bound to be full of crap if it is the stock radiator after all these years.

exactly. One persons low is another person's stilts. Worth clarifying in people's minds before they get in and assume a give rim/offset/tyre will fit...

i would say that is just the perspective of the photo as i was trying to get a pic of how the new rubber sat etc. as such it makes the car look quite high as you are looking up into the arches see my garage pics for normal perspective http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=garage&do=view_image&id=3397 basically you can get your pinky finger in between the top of the tyre n the wheel arch- just nonethless, horses for courses. I get alot of people commenting how low my car is. To other people its only low if the rims are up under the guards... (i.e. see my other garage pics with the series 1 spoiler n drift suspension)

agreed. I think alot of people make this mistake. But a sticky & fat tyre... that is my new 275/35/18 Toyo Proxes4 on a 9.5" rim (+36). Minimum camber and lowered a fair bit (bodykit is 14mm at lowest points on the front lip and side skirts). See heaps of room left in the guards but sitting pretty flush

depeneding on how much camber you are running and how low you are id say you will still be able to get 255's on those in the rear... iv got 18x9.5 +36 with 275's. As little camber as the standard arms offer + pretty low n there is heaps of room. only just needing to roll the guards...

they are 120 delivered with the upgrade kit from ebay by a reputable ebay seller mate...

school holidays are early this year... http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=13&R=9929282&keywords=&trecs=15&__sid=12E5DB8946EE&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=true&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&seot=1&__N=1216 1282 4294962861 4294962110 904 1527&silo=1011

now you are asking a very tricky and technical question that i think you are dreaming if you are 1-even going to find an answer. 2- find an answer that is correct as oppposed to speculative... Otherwise, id say the bottom line is that these sway bars and this 'swap over mod' would have very little impact, especially when we usually are throwing all sorts of other things into the equation like coilovers (stiffness, damping, ride height), strut braces, engine dampers, different size rims and low profile tyres, different width tyres. Se where im coming from?

ah yeah, iv heard of that with the ATTESSA. Not about width differences tho. Having said that it is easy to changing said rolling diameters by unknown quantities as as 225/35/18 is not going ot have the same rolling diameter as a 275/35/18 right?....

yeah i did the GTST to GTR sway bar upgrade on my 33 GTST. Made it stiffer with less roll. Iv also got ciolovers in (8kgF, 6kgR) so i do find it harder to get the power down. To compensate i just threw on some sticky 275's. Best of both worlds now

ah yeah, staggered offset is different results in a GTR... does it stuff the handlind on them? i know the staggered rims on a GTST helps it something sweet. Not so with a GTR?

either way id say its an easy repair. That is not a load bearing part of the spoiler. If it is plastic then plastic weld (get down to your local motorcycle repair shop- that is their main skill) or even araldite is a good fix on plastic breaks like that. Tho if you are doing a home job id brace it with a metal rod in the middle or a metal strip/tongue underneath... if it is fibreglass then go nuts with it with a fibreglass repair kit (though id still brace it as mentioned above)

rda slotted rotors are sweet and great value for money. Only thing is that the zinc coating is crap n mine started to get that rusty colour pretty quick. Iv since removed them all again and paointed them all up with caliper paint on those sections (now also matches wheels n body colour) so if you get the RDA ones make sure u do this unless you like the 'rugged rusty look'.

u wont need a plastic repair kit if it is only the paint that is cracked... Otherwise looks the goods. Mask the bumper with tape n news paper and get a nice straight line on the lip with no overspray (if you take the bumper off- reccomended...)

those sizes n offsets look spot on for GTR's. You will be able to get full size tyres for those rims n not have to camber them either.

go for some staggered fitment. common staggered fitment is 8s n 9's or 8.5 n 9.5 iv got the latter with 235 n 275. Loves it and the handling is epic with a little lower, little stiffer (8kg-F, 6kg-R) little camber n adjustable damper. Put the power down real nice with 225kwatw...

go the 265's. iv got 265's on my 18x9.5's and they are only just 'flush witht he rims'. So on a 10 inch rim they will me starting to go towards stretched, let along a 245 etc. Im actually about to throw a 275 on as a replacement this weekend. Ill let you know how that goes on a 9.5..

I wouldnt assume it is running rich just beacuse you can smell fuel (u might have a decat pipe or knackered cat convertor). Also you will most likely be smelling exhaust at idle which is only indicative of your idle settings and perhaps health of your air flow meter and O2 sensor. Nonethelses, it is worth getting the tune checked... Will id say you would be lucky to get into a Power FC, installation and tune (yes they do need to be tuned) for under 2k. While a retune on your SAFC would be a few hundred bucks... If i were you id go for the retune and see if you can stay happy with that at the max power it will give you. otherwise. Or, if you have the money, go for a nistune or Power FC n 12-14psi (270-300hp). Though dont expect your turbo to last forever at this level so factor in that...

ahhh, you should see some better numbers then as you missed the key ingredient in your parts line up. You bet the Apexi safc will make a difference. Id say you should see at least 220hp (if it was indeed tuned to 8psi). That is why it pulls hard in the upper revs. Most stock ecu R33's, n particularly S1's, really fall over in the upper revs... So i now backtrack on my last comment ans say DO NOT WIND THE BOOST UP!!! the SAFC is a unit that needs tuning and so will have been tuned in to a certain boost level- hopefully 8psi if that is what the controller is set at. Any more boost and it is possible you will ping the motor n even kill it. Do not ever f*k with the SAFC or the boost controller. I would reccomend you find the place that did the SAFC install and confirm what they did n to what boost (get an power graph and AFR's). If you cant find them and get this info then find a reputable SAFC tuner and go in for a retune. People have blown up motors self tuning, driving with a bad tune or upping the boost on SAFC's. Otherwise if you are chasing more power just pull the safc and get a Power FC or Nistune etc done n go for more boost (read up on the implications of this tho). Pretty easy to get his 200's hp on 12+psi tuned. enjoy mate

hahhaha, be very careful about 'knowing what the problem is'. Yeah it is probably the cause 80% of the time but to assume it is is dangerous territory... anyways, let us know how you go. interested now

seeing as its running on the standard ECU and the series 1 ecu at that i wouldnt expect much. if it seems to run well and pull right throughout the rev range id say 190-200hp atw, if it does the standard ecu thing and goes really flat after about 5000rpm due to your mods n boost then i would expect less... my feeling is that mods like exhaust and FMIC dont do much to skylines unless you have a happy ecu which i have only ever seen ahppen in a series 2 motor. good luck n tell us what you get... Or, even better, put it on there at 7psi (stock boost) n then do another run and try throwing 10 or 12psi into it n see if it actually makes a difference. AFR chart would be awesome too... Nice looking 33 btw

what does fit nice involve? can you see the rims when looking from the back down the line of the body (as in are they sticking out form the arches mexican style?) n hows the camber wear and traction too?

u seem to be going about all this in an intersting way. why would you go for the commy coils n mod when you are trying to sort out a problem. You dont know if you have failed to solve a problem or just traded one for another. stock DET coils are a dime a dozen now, shit buy your mate a 6 pack and borrow his for a day n test them in yours to see if thats your problem. Chasing your tail is not a good way to troubleshoot/ solve problems...

id bring this back to the key issues people so often overlook- tyres n suspension yeah with stock tyres n suspension id agree with those sad times for both de & DET. throw some decent rims n tyres at em and even suspension (my 33 DE had this) n it is considerably quicker. Go to the drags, its all about getting that power down quickly.

id pitch it even harder. I say 2dr skylines are good for 4 adults- i do it all the time (R33 GTST). Just as long as the people in the rear seats arent bigger than 6ft (a pretty decent allowance). so ticking all those poxes is going to be hard. Im not sure how quick a new 4dr porsche or aston martin is but im guessing they still wouldnt beat a GTR straight or curvy... (let alone the money debate) you have this debate won. roll with it.