jjman

my money is on the coilpacks. CHange the plugs while you are in there yeah...

this is not mine but my best mate's effort- and what an effort it was... In his excessively dumped (reallllly lowered) vt commonwhore he decides to hitch up the trailer n go down to bunnings and pick up a shitload of gyprock sheets n corrugated tin sheets for the house reno's. He just piles all of these sheets in the trailer, straps it down n off he goes. Now i remember mentioning to him about trailer towing physics n also the extra problem of towing with his dumped car, does he listen? Noooo. So of course the sheets are too long for the trailer n are sticking out the back of the trailer further increasing the weight point on the trailer backwards. So he hits the highway and at 100km/h he gets the mother of all trailer swerves going on. He was lucky it was 3 lanes wide n nobody in the lanes near him cos that shit was all over the place jacknifing and everything. Well at this point the extreme forces the swinging wieght of the load just bends the sides of the trailer out like a peeled banana. N now the straps also give way. I dont know what speed he was still doing be all these sheets of gyprock n tin shit starts flying off into the air, catching the wind and getting like 10-20m of air. Gyprock and tin is literally errupting from his trailer like a volcano letting go big time. There were even bits of tin that speared into the ground next to the highway and buried themselves in there a few feet like javelins- n you can just imagine what the gyprock sheets were doing as they came down on the road at 70-80kmh. WHADAf*kNMESSSSSS!!!! All this means he shuts down this major hwy in perth for 15 minutes while he runs the 200m strip that is covered in debri and pulls it off the roads while every motorist heckles the shit out of him. f*kn gold. I swear i laughed so f*kn hard i cried when i saw his trailer bent to shit with the edges like a peeled banana n the axles or hubs or some shit bent out so it looked like a cartoon trailer with the wheels pointing outwards with about 10 degrees of 'opposite camber'....

there is a thread somewhere on what goes wrong with these and how to fix them (easy solder job). If this setup ever gives out do a search n maybe go for the repain option.

you will need to throw up the width of the rims, offset and the tyres you plan to run on them to get any meaningful responses mate. also whether the car is lowered is an issue...

ahhh, yeah if u dont screw anything up then having the ac fan turn on earlier could be a bit of a smart mod (you know it turns on regardless at a given temperature yeah? so u are only going to be able to drop the temp point of that turn on point) yeah templates of the CAI/box vary as everybody's intake pipe, pod intercooler setup can vary so its a DIY. Doesnt need to be airtight, just direct the best air possible... any thoughts on why u are sticking with the smic? when going fmic that hole it opens up is great for CAI...

yeah i decided against it. Deciding piece was I saw a guy rock up to buy a part off me n he had 18x10+22 on his gtst which sat real mexican n realised its not my thing (especially when thowing in the cop bait factor). cheers for all the info and perspectives people. just need a GTR now so i can get those epic rims....

yeah an unsheilded pod sucks some serious heat into the charge. Its pretty easy to make a home-job shield. Otherwise there are plenty to be bought or have fabricated for the 1-200 mark. I run a thermofan (16") and it is awesome. Car runs smoother, with more power and pick-up. It also runs cooler!! Tho this might also be because i had the radiator cores cleaned (30% blocked it turns out). N i think this is the major issues with skylines. They are older and have plenty of gunk n corrosion thru the system n radiator. Nonetheless, cooler. Id say it shifts way more air than the standard clutch fan at idle/low rpm n then if ur revs are higher its cos ur driving and the air-force is the main cooling force then so makes the fan less relevant. Iv also got a big FMIC and 225kwatw so its not like this is only working on a stocker... bit of a job to hook up tho...

the true test will be- drive the R35 and compare it to your M3. Proof will be in the pudding. Dependig on the sweet talk you could even get the R35 for a day n really find out the truth... not sure on purchase prices but which ever is cheaper consider spending the additional money on mods n see where the equation gets you... my 2c. P.S. M3's rule. Still hanging for my 2002 M5 'daily'

Right you were, normal behaviour. Anyways iv since done the 'block the pcv hose' mod and catch-caning the breathers. Not a fan of any sort of oily vapours going into the plenum or in front of the turbo. Sorted

yeah im using redline shockproof. Bottom line is that the RB25 are good but older boxes now so you really need to look after them. So why use anything less than the best?. My R33 with 225kwatw has a box that feels like brand new and i plan to keep it that way. Fully synthetic and changed every10-20,000 kms and i absolutely baby it when cold and then i still only do i hard shift if im murdering someone Otherwise i give it a nice gentle change every time so it goes in with no resistance and doesnt stress the synchros. I used to have a Suzuki Swift GTi and the synchros went on that big time n i just ended up hating driving it. rrrrrrmmm, chkkkk, clunk, rrrrmmmm= NOT FUN OR COOL. Good thing i rolled it, would have been impossible to sell like that.... Sorry to say Josh but that kind of behaviour from the box is not normal at all and sounds like the synchros are getting pretty f*kd. Change the oil to a really good fully synth (do you even know the lst time it was changed??). otherwise perhaps things like a selector for or some shit might be the issue, but i doubt it based on the whole 'when it is cold' thing- which is textbook synchros...

hahahaha. amen to that. My mate bought a C5 corvette callaway full bodykit for his C4 corvette. Sooooo much work. A full kit is like a rebuild. Lots of time n money...

what would these actually fit on? It would have to be a full widebody kit on anything to get these puppies in there right?

i would say you have one of the gay R33 ecu's. I doubt that you would not be able to tell that your clutch is slipping. anyway its an easy test to find out if your clutch is shot, do it. Otherwise, as i was saying, you have one of those conservative ecu's that go really rich above a certain airflow. Mine would rev to about4.5- 5000rpm n then it would not make any more power. I cant remember what ecu thread this was covered in but i wouldnt waste your dyno time just to find out that the ecu has its thumb in its arse... With all the stage 1 mods iv gone from about 150hp at the wheels to 300hpatw just from a tune. Stock ecu's are f*kd and god knows what they get up to when you throw on an exhaust, front mount n boost on the stock ecu. they seem very variable how they handle it. Some go alright, others just see the extra flow n throw a hissy. Good luck...

bit of an update. I was away over the chrissy period and took the parcel shelf out and put it in my tin shed to 'set and cure' in the perth heat (as the foggy residue occurred when the car was left in heat) i then washed it upon return to try are rid any further residue off the surface. i then put it back in and though it is better i had the car in the sun the last few days and she fogged right back up again. SO basically i now assume that whatever is going on is going to continue to happen seeing as it is about 6 months now including baking the thing... Soooo, basically im thinking of aborting the whole thing, putting a normal parcel shelf back in and throwing some petrol on this f*kker and lighting something smokeable off its smoldering carcass. All that work, just to have it turn keeping my windows into a nightmare... Lesson- Kwik Grip in large amounts produces a fume that fogs up your windows. thankful- that i did all this before putting tinting in as im sure this whole process would have f*kd up tint had i had it in the car...

the damper just helps in the equation. Not totally taking the punishment. Also because it is a shock absorbing unit it is taking force not simply resisting the movement and therefor transferring more force to the engine mounts. All of the physics of it im not sure about, but rationally reducing that overall movement and force on the engine mounts has to be good. As for how much it does and in comparison to big engine builds i couldnt say. Id say in the process of doing a decent build the engine mounts would be replaced and/or upgraded. This, therefore doing a similar job for the engine movement and corresponding transfer of force into the driveline as the engine damper in my case. It is noted that if you make it all too stiff (such as through upgrading engine mounts to stiffer ones) it means your get more vibration into the car as a trade off for the stiffness and reduced torquing of the motor. I noticed this effect myself in that at idle more of the engine vibration is going into the car, however iv also noticed that the accelaration force/driveline is also smoother. The vibration increase is barely noticable and im happy with the improvement so a good mod outcome in my books... anybody else had experience with engine dampers to either answer my initial question about the mounted tension of my unit or these changed characteristics from it?

they brace the engine to reduce the force of the engine 'torquing' when the accelerator is pressed (ever watched a motor when someone revs it in neutral?- how it rocks from side to side) so this braces the motor to reduce that thereby reducing stress on the engine mounts and components and also then delivering more of the drive into the transmission and more smoothly...

So I put my engine damper in on the weekend. I am wondering if i have installed it correctly based on the tension that it is at. (of course i have mounted it correctly etc) Due to the limited adjustment in the thing I would say that there is a reasonable amount of tension/pressure already in it, and therefore on the motor, as i mounted it and did it up- essentially it is pushing on the motor a bit just sitting there. Is this fine or is it meant to be sitting there with little or no static pressure on the engine? Not too keen on hurting the engine mounts if this is what might happen based on this scenario...

how do you mean 'not able to'? and this is pretty extreme in variation to your mates commenting that it is behaving in a way that is 'nothing out of the ordinary'.... also auto or manual? i cant imagine it being an auto with these symptoms but then again i wouldnt be caught with a skyline auto so wouldnt know... Anyway, sounds like it could be one of 2 things in the simple side of things. 1- yes you do need to change the oil in the gearbox. I do every 20-40,000km and with the best stuff available. Iv also found that skylines love fresh good grearbox oil and work alot better with this. 2- your synchros are f*kd. Iv noticed that the RB25 gearbox can easily get bad synchros due to their age and the abuse they may have experienced in their life (use and mainentence wise.) Also i know alot of skyline owners who think this is normal RB25 box behaviour when in fact their synchos are not in the best of nick. But alot or Rb's have this issue and so many think it is normal behaviour (it isnt...)

pity your not in perth. Id do swapsies with my GSXR 750 for that thing... good luck with the sale mate. Nice dirty 30 sleeper

depends on your colour and the depth of the dents. black is a bitch (just ask me). White is waaaay easy and silver also not too bad. Honestly you cant go past a good dent popped and detailing job performed by a professional. Especially if the dents are as strong as you have indicated and also you have rust begining. I just had a monster 50c piece sized dent popped professionally. Cant even see any trace of it anymore and that is on a black car n the dent was on a very visible section. Good luck

on this note. Shall we develop this thread into- do you have 3 or more vehicles and why? (+ any commentary on the running costs we are living with) anybody doing this and have any comment they want to share?

dont underestimate what full stage one mods for over 200rwkw will cost.... (+fitting and tuning) FMIC, turbo back exhaust, boost controller, prob coilpacks, computer, tune... -and again, nobody wants that kind of fruit on an auto. you will not recoup the costs... do the trendy thing and get a daily (which you already have) and then a skyline that is purpose built for those weekend smiles.

got any pics of it Roy? urs is the closest iv got to what im doing. By maxxed camber you mean heaps of camber yeah?

good point. cheers again mate.

mmm, cheers for that alex. you mean heaps of room after cutting/rolling the guard lip? also what camber do you run. iv considered the whole lifting it up aspect cos iv got adjustable. Definately something id prefer to do before throwing camber at it and consequently wrecking good tyres as well as my ability to get the power down...