jjman

going to have to put this in because I keep on getting stiffer and stiffer if you know what i mean SHANNONS!!!! 1) I pay roughly $500 a year to comprehensively insure my mildy modded 207rwkw R33 GTST for 15k. excess is 250 or 350 or something. 2) Punk kid reversed into the front of my car a while back. No excess as wasnt my fault n they came out within days to assess n confirm a quote (no haggling on a generous quote). 3) Was thinking of upping the ante on the car with some more mods to get 250-300rwkw. I called them to discuss- "we dont care what modifications you do, just as long as they are legal". Well im in WA and legal is a very broad term over here and mods can be engineered easily enough anyway. I you Shannons. You just need to pass the 'interview' peeps....

hahhaha, iv had so many hysterical laughs over this whole 300zx engine out joke. Its awesome and i just got a couple more- "you have to order a new car direct from nissan. shame you dont drive a 300ZX, woulda been a simple matter of engine out." "fallen behind in pop culture? engine out" and to the fella above who is wondering what it is all about- 300zx's have such a cramped engine bay due to the ultra shoe-horned tt 3.0 V6 they have in there that almost no matter what problem occurs with the motor you need to pull the engine out to get at it (and problems do occur on 300zxs...) now that you get this go back to the thread that brought about the 'engine out' renaissance. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30...tr-t341222.html check post 6 for a pic of the engine bay in question....

Cool. cheers for that. u sure about the acetone? not going to damage tint or anything else? I cleaned them up with window cleaner last night then applied anti-fogging product (de-natured alcohol). Hoping that will keep it under wraps until the vapours chill out... Otherwise will have to have a go at the acetone... thinking i might leave the door cards out of the car for a while when i do them otherwise im not going to be able to see out the windows 5 mins after cleaning them... on that note, anybody know of a better product than quick-grip for this sort of job that wont create fogging from the vapours?

yeah ill take some tonight n post. Alas i wish it were that easy. My job is immaculate and there is no excess to clean off. It would appear to just be the fumes coming off the job as it is... I remember my old vinyl dash on my 70's celica was doing the same to the windscreen but after i gave it some heavy treatments with armour-all it stopped doing it. Im hoping armour-all leather will do the same for this when i apply it...

Hey all, just did a job with selleys quik-grip that was gluing a leather piece over my rear parcel shelf to cover up that shite felty board. Iv left the air circulation vents in the piece, i just covered the other parts. Basically the car now gets this foggy look on the windows very quickly, especially on the rear window above where the aforementined modified parcel shelf is. Does anybody know is quik-grip would be the culprit here, and if so how to fix it? cheers Justin

I like your thought patterns Eps. I found myself several months back thinking exactly the same thing (well not as specific as silver, but def the whole dented rear on the V35's). I work at Curtin Uni and there are quite a few of them here as they seem to be pretty popular with the international students. Seeing them here in particular got me thinking about the dinged back bumper. And why would you spend that kind of money on a car, ding it and not get it repaired!? random.

the problem is that this involves commenting on a desired outcome that is highly variable depending on the person. For example- Im busy, imfastidious, iv got money, i know my car very well and im smart (so i can tell if you arent playing fair or havent dont the job right). Based on that Im happy to pay a premium dollar for work on my car as long as: -the job is done right the first time (i havent got time to come back, nor should i have to if i am paying a premuim) -i know if something has been done half assed so please make sure that it isnt, if the apprentice is working on my car- manage that process please. Im not paying a premium to have the apprentice do a shit job on my car. -i DO understand things seldom go to plan, and there are cost and time blowouts, im alright with that. Just dont make that the equation with the result be a job that is not quite right. -mechanics as a demographic arent natural communicators, particularly under stress or in conflict situations which can often be the case in their work it seems. Im not expecting you to be a good communicator, just do the mechanical work right. (tho i do know that alot of people do want the good communicator, and it is a bonus, but im not going to fool myself into thinking it is required nor essential.) I know other people want to have their work done as fast and cheaply as possible and based on that they might be happy to tinker with the job afterwards to get it just right. Other people just wanted to be walked n talked through the process so they feel at ease with parting with serious cash for work they perhaps know nothing about. Even if they really will still have no idea if it was done right or not... As i said, its a very variable equation. Im still looking for the right mechanic for my R33, and iv been disappointed many times so far in my search. Iv found that special meachanic for my bikes n my other cars that arent as unique as an R33. But the turbo import mechanic- im still waiting for you...

AFM could be involved in that equation but otherwise, from my experience, it would be the nature of your ECU. Some seem to deal with more airflow n boost better than others... My R33 couldnt even deal with standard boost before it richened things up for an epic flat spot up in the rev range!. Ecu tune sorted it completely. Not to say this is the case in your car but iv driven alot of R33's n they all seemed to be different and handle boosting differently... (or even standard boost in my case...)

Hey, tried searching the threads and asking mechanics for an answer to the issue here but no luck... Basically it seems that my PCV valve is making a hissing sound at idle and it didnt use to. Im pretty sure its the PCV as iv replaced the gromet and the hose that connects it to the plenum with genuine items (so its not a hose leak). Also the noise goes away if you hold that hose to the plenum shut with your fingers (so no air can flow thru that pipe and the PCV). It also stops hissing when you rev it a bit, closing the PCV valve as it would normally under throttle i assume. The problem is i stuck another second hand PCV valve in there today and the same hissing sound is still present... Do PCV valves make a hissing sound when they are knackered and perhaps this second hand PCV valve was also finished or is there perhaps something else at play here trying to flow more air than normal thru the PCV and resulting in the hissing? Is there meant to be a restrictor in any of the hoses of the rocker covers that might be missing? Just trying to get to the bottom of it before i order an $80+ new PCV from japan that will take 3 weeks if it isnt the issue.... And knowledge or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Justin

In definate agreement there. 300zx + Engine out= same price as buying a 32 gtr anyway. Both expensive for alot of work

depends on your skills, tools and the type of front mount. If it is a return flow suited for an R33 then it should be pretty easy. Otherwise if it is a straight flow you are going to need to cut a hole for the piping to come back through the other side of the engine bay. Also whether you have a pressure hose bung already on it or are going to need to install one... Also what type of front bumper you have and how much modding (cutting) of the front bar is also needed... good luck. If in doubt get a professional to do it yeah...

by level of importance -make sure the pod filter is totally contained and separated from the air in the engine bay. then route an air feed from the very front of the car to the contained 'air box'. -wrap the intake/intercooler piping in heat insulating 'bandage'. getting silly now -wrap the exhaust manifold and dump pipe in heat insulating bandage to further reduce the air temps (and where that temp can go) in the engine bay -set up a water spray for your intercooler to provide evaporative cooling of the intercooler

an rb20et will be such an abortion. if it really comes down to doing something different then go for a rb25/30det (then hold the f$%k on). otherwise an rb25det with a different turbo (e.g. hks gtrs) is also different and awesome. u can also throw a screamer pipe on there to really scare off the kids in south london oh, im not sure what model specifically you have but being an NA R33 im also going to throw you a 'good luck with the brakes, diff n suspension'...

I went for ultimate auto trim in my R33 GTST. http://www.ultimateautotrim.com/ professional service. and the product has been great (been in over a year now, no problems). I paid $900 (delivered to WA) for the full car option. front and rear seats, black and ivory colour combination, gear boot, handbrake, centre console cover, door panels, and rear speaker panel. For the seats its essentially a perfectly fitted cover (matched to the R33 seat) that you then stitch onto the seat (easy job, just pulling about 8-12 cords through the seat to secure the cover)

def new O2 sensor and plugs. Also make sure your pod filter is separated from the rest of the engine bay. otherwise it will just be sucking hot air from your engine bay and that is one of the easiest ways to hurt your fuel consumption. otherwise throw a bottle of wynns injector cleaner through it just to cover all bases. All of those things and mine went from 350 to 450+ overnight. Oh Joy.

Id say even a 5.7 is going to disappoint. It did for me. and the price still being asked for them is a bit much... it took 6 litres before i even thought it was comparable to the grunt of my R33. and they are still asking 30k+ for em! Id say for your price indication you cant go past an R33 (if you actually like them, they seem to have polarising effect- love or hate). I found that the s14's and 180sx's are a bit too thrashed now but the R33 holds up better over the years due to the higher price and the bigger 6 cyl not needing to be revved to the sky to get moving as in the sr20det's. Also looks wise the s14 n 180 are getting a bit dated, also smaller. good luck

great fix it seems but anybody ever thought more through it and considered that there might be a problem with the airbag? wouldnt want it not working in case you end up needing it.. or even having it go off when you dont need it-

look at the number on the stamp on the front of the ECU. It will have, for example, MEC -52723 If it is MEC-5*** it is a series 1 ecu If it is MEC-6*** it is a series 1.5 ecu If it is MEC-7*** it is a series 2 ecu as aforementioned, they are actually able to be interchanged between the different series anyway. Not really sure on the effects of this though. just be aware of the auto/manual bit though as detailed above. Iv heard this can influence idle and a range of other things. good luck.

whats with the love of the 4 door option? (apart from a bit of ease of use) considered 2 doors?

Good to hear mate. and to make the commetn that they looked after you and pricing was reasonable for all that work must mean it was good. Most of the time you have to die a little inside and pack away the credit card for a couple of months as you pay those kind of bills...

I agree. Between the wheels n suspension the thing looks like it is 'mini-tubbed' for the drags. Or is it actually mini-tubbed?

yeah i think it will happily take more width and improve performance of both straight line as its fatter, n corners cos it definately wont ballon at 275 or 285 methinks. perhaps this is a better topic header -does anybody know the biggest tyre for best best performance on a 9.5 inch rim...

yeah i think the prior post is a little out. as per this guys post on a 255 on a 8-9 inch. at the moment with the 265 (which was the recommended standard fitment from the supplier) the tyre sits pretty much flush with the rim. Perhaps curves in a bit (stretched). So def room for wider without ballooning.

for the sake of it. Traction. Looks. bit of everything really. the rim certainly has room for a wider tyre so it isnt sacrificing function over form..

good question. Ill try to find that out