jjman

Im wondering what would be the largest width tyre i could fit on the 9.5 inch wide rims i have on the rear of my GTST. The guards have been cut out completely. At the moment I have 265's on there and there is heaps of room between the tyre and the arch. Not sure about on the inner side near the suspension etc. anybody know the answer to this? -and i want sizes that will get in there without rubbing on anything at any suspension travel point. (had tyres that rubbed on my old car and it shat me to tears...) cheers J

Nissan factory 'drift lip'- that little drift lip that sits under the standard spoiler (see pic) Nismo clutch (sure its not that rare but everybody seems to have exeedy etc these days)

def sikaflex -you ever tried getting out the tail-lights on an R33? feels like they are held in by about 4 massive bolts when u know there are no bolts left holding it in- thats sikaflex take the skirt off first and clean as much of the old shit off as possible for the best stick and look of the job.

its a music video clip but still counts i think. Im not up on my retro knowlege of what car this is but is sweet. -The Black thing out of spiderbait's 'black betty' vid clip.

gotta get in with this. cant beleive it hasnt been put up yet. If i won lotto i would get this car. (dont worry id also have some insane forced induction sub 10 second car too...)

+1 for sticking in 12psi. Why bother with engine management if you arent going to stick in some proper boost and make the most of it. here's where it got me. 277atw http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...79#entry5379379

Nah mine was like this bog standard too. Is yours series 1 or 2? where abouts you located? Toshis is in Sydney and can sort this stuff really well.

I didnt realise that the symptoms were that bad-yeah definately sounds like a shock. My GTST had a blown shock when i got it and did that sort of shit to.. just jack it up and have a look at the shocks. If one looks really oily that is your problem. Also with a f*kd shock you should not be able to get any power down cornering as the wheel with the buggered shock will just spin up... BC coilovers are pretty sweet replacements and an awesome price. Sorry to rob this guy's '2psi' thread...

The feeling that you are getting that you think might be hicas would be from your suspension (it is aftermarket in your GTST?) as well as different rims/tyres. HICAS operates based on throttle % in relation to steering angle (more of both in combination = more rear wheel steer from HICAS). I have both an NA R33 and a GTST R33. I can feel the HICAS so much more in the NA because the throttle input is that much more because of the lower amount of power the NA makes (therefore requiring a far greater throttle application for the same power while cornering). Iv got to say i barely feel the HICAS in my GTST. I think you are confusing it with that twitchy feeling that comes from bumps when in a car with stiffer suspension and different wheels... Otherwise, check your bushes and bearings, it could be something more sinister at work

R33 GTST S1 split dump turbo-back exhaust with hi-flow stainless steel cat. Kakimoto racing muffler (very quiet) splitfires, cold spark plugs. FMIC Greddy Profec Spec B- 12psi Remapped ECU chip by Toshi Pod filter. 277hp -207KW

I like the way you think Jez. I think that is the best place to start. quote name='DVS32R' date='29 Jul 2010, 04:02 PM' post='5373149'] i have seen rust causing wheel shudder and brake shudder. but i see your point on no brake shudder, i think you should just get the wheels onto a balncer for $35 it will tell you whether your problem is that or the brakes. takes the guess work out of it. and while the wheels are getting balnced pull the brakes off and clean the rust. WIN WIN

OK will see if i can check that too. A further point to mention is that the brakes work fine. No shudder under braking like if a disc was warped. Which would also mean that it is unlikely to be somethin on the hub surface as this would also misalign the rotors rotation and forcing a shudder under braking too? Or would a slight bit of rust/dirt be enough to cause balance shudder at high speeds but not enough to cause a shudder under braking?

cheers people, ill start with the rust on the hubs. its a possibility. Ill make sure all the balance weights are there and sitting right too. yeah iv got the hub centric rings (spigots). wheels and tyres are brand now so dont need rotating. And were on the car for 2000km before doing the rotors and there was zero shudder then. rotors shouldnt need machining as they are brand new yeah? n the supplier said that they are balanced before being sold... Hopefully is the rust/dirt on the hubs as i sooo dont want to have to go down the route of claiming faulty rotors and proving it and then wating with the car on blocks for however long it takes to get replacements... thats why you buy brand new to avoid this shit yeah? :s

I would say to be cautious with mucking around with the exhaust chasing a given sound. Odds are you will end up with 'not quite what youre after' and louder than u want. Quiet is better id say, and im in WA where you can do whatever the f*k you want My old R33 was loud as. Good for 10% of the time, annoying for the rest. The current R33 makes twice the power but is quiet as. I love it. Then again i have a pod so it is dead quiet when chilling and an angry tornado under gas. Best of both worlds. Maybe look at that mod to make turbo induction noise. I think it is a way sweeter noise than exhaust (as good as an RB can sound at the tailpipe) noted by another post above. I turn way more heads with all induction noise on this one than all exhaust noise on the last one.... And yeah, Vic sounds very cop-strict so a loud exhaust is going to give you nightmares me-thinks. Goodluck mate

All good then.

Hey people, Iv found that after changing all 4 rotors and pads i now have that wheel balance shudder through the steering wheel at 100kmh+. Prior to the new rotors i didnt have this problem and have brand new rims and tyres. I have had a 4 wheel alignment done but that didnt make any difference. Any suggestions what it might be? Iv checked and it doesnt look like iv knocked off a balance weight doing the rotor change. Perhaps incorrectly balanced rotors? (RDA's) cheers Justin

you mention GTS4 n RB25 so im assuming you mean non-turbo and awd. In which case, i think they would be fine. That is if you are on a budget. Otherwise always spend more n get better. But if it is a price range thing and also going on a non-turbo i think you will be plenty satisfied. They hung on just fine in my R33 N/A. N even though not massive outright grip they are very predictable. Which is worth its weight in gold if you ask me(i come from a biking background)

yeah mine does exactly this too. doesnt sound like the aforementioned "Mine made that incredible whining noise" and then blew up scenario. Its like a barely noticable sound that sounds like a brake pad squeek just for a moment at a certainrpmand pressure combo. But only under a changing condition. Iv tried to get the sound to stay on by driving it in the condition but cant, which means it must be under a changing condition. Very weird. Iv given up trying to sort what it might be as its always done it and nothing has ever changed or happened... interested to know what it might be tho. And a fix if it is out there... in case any of these things could be similar between our cars i have- pod intake, FMIC, turboback exhaust, EBC @ 10psi, splitfires....

yeah had them on the rear of my R33 N/A (235/17's) were really quite good in the dry but seemed to slide really easy in the wet (but predictable n controllable). not sure if i would have liked them on a 200hpatw+ GTST... Depends what size you are going for too i guess. If you are going for a 255 or 265 then the grip is going to be better for the turbo application... Good budget tyre. I emphasize the word budget tho. U get what you pay for.

hahaha, yeah the witty answers made me laugh and made the humilitation worthwhile. n i was thinking that too about the guy who picked out the window glare. Sharp

yeah was probably a pretty retarded question just appeared like a place that wouldnt have a buidling next to it for some reason. Then again iv had 4 hours sleep in 2 days so alot of things arent as they appear right now :s

i drove from parkwood to carousel n then to Bentley n didnt see anything like this. Look at all those rashers. just brings a shiver up your spine. good pic btw. how on earth did you take it? looks like you are up about 50m?

on that note, does anybody know what the going price would be in Japan (translated to Aussie dollars) for a R33 S2 in very good nick and say 80k on the clock?. or a similar 96odd GTR?

Been here and done this several times. Sadly that sweet glossy black plastic that is underneath really only shows up like that on the bits where the trimming has degraded n fallen off naturally. Otherwise when you start rubbing the rest off it has a different look and isnt consistent. I had the same thought as you... As such eventually you will need to spray it to get it to look schmick again. I found mine (1993) was able to be rubbed off by hand but as you said ends up caning your hand. I used those extra thick heavy duty dishwashing gloves and it worked a treat. If the trim is a bit stubborn use hot water on it at the same time. Or even eucalyptus oil. Otherwise if too stubborn just get something plastic that is hard enough to use as a scraped but not hard enough to damage the plastic underneath. N dont try to do this job with the dash panels still in the car, not worth the trouble. U pulled the dash panels off before? N when you do go to respray it make sure you use a good primer n even plastic primer as paint does not like to stick to that bare plastic. "have fun"

i had this problem. Bought a bog stock R33 series 1 which was flat as above 3500rpm. And i mean really flat. (it did have a cat back exhaust but wateva) Put on turbo back exhaust, FMIC, pod, new plugs n splitfires. Still EXACTLY the same power. I was getting worried that there might have been injector trouble or something cos it sucked so hard. I think my stock R33 N/A would have been going harder, honestly. Got an ecu tune by toshi (is on the forums here). Pulls like a f*kn freight train now right thru to redline. and i mean real hard making the most of 12psi with a AFR of 12. It was all just that shitty standard ecu. From my homework it seems that series 1's suffer alot more from this. Im also preferable to tuning/chipping the standard ecu as you arent putting in a stand-alone ecu with all the installation and tuning associated. This way it also looks completely bog standard as the chip goes in the existing ecu box. Cops and/or insurance companies cant tell youve had a tune done.