jjman

damn i feel for you guys over east with all that roadworthy certs n limits on the mods you can do. Sounds like a great way to spoil your skyline party. might be easier to drive it to WA, get it registered over here n then drive it back!

dang. that sux. A friend of mine got his R33 stickered n they were giving him shit about his suspension height just like you but after a while they chilled on it and said it would pass with that height. (about the same as yours i think). From memory my mate also let the time lapse from it being a yellow sticker to unregistered so im not sure if that made a difference. Or they just thought they would focus on the important things- like the massive high-mount HKS turbo or or the blow off valve that at 20 odd pounds of boost sounded like darth vader in a reallly bad mood... tho just to check, even tho ur body kit is 150mm, there isnt a part of your exhaust that is lower than that n picking on is it? but yeah, cant really give any further advice on how to get past this height problem. prob take it to another place...

for the suspension either get it engineered or find a way to have it pass. I thought that it was just 100mm from ur lowest point under fully load (full tank of fuel and 3 passengers) but maybe im wrong. There is often the general rule (e.g. 100mm) but then subrules they can stick you with- 1/3 of the height otherwise get ready to spend a little bit of money n time in getting some standard suspension and putting it in, passing the pits n then changing it all back over. R33 suspension is pretty dead easy to swap in n out. But its still a pain in the ass...

Iv got a feeling you have a yellow sticker that 'looks like its been put on with little care'- i.e. it isnt straight or sitting neatly in a corner of your windsheild. THis is code from the cop who gave you the yellow sticker to the dept of transport guys at the pits that he didnt like you n wants your life to be made dificult in getting it over the pits. certainly sounds like that is what is going on. Or youve got faults on your car that u didnt realise were faults for whatever reason... "Good luck"

dont need to spend heaps on getting a bracket made up. Just go to bunnings and get that aluminium bracketing with fixing holes already drilled. After removing the stock airbox there is usually a spare screw hole around where ur pod sits. fix the bracket to there and to where the pod is bolted to the adaptor bracket. -all done. Too easy

thats alright.

definately power delivery. You wouldnt believe how different it makes things feel, and even betray the actual reality. a 'peaky' 'powerband' delivery will make things feel so much faster, when in reality they are not. Best example of this i can give of this going in my mates Corvette C6 ZO6 (one of only 2 in WA from knowlege). You know that mental one with the 505hp 7 litre V8, which on topgear clarkson was able to take off from the line in 4th gear and go right to 170mph or so in that one gear!. Well being a car capable of 0-100 in 3.8 and high 11's 1/4 mile i thought that i would be getting utterly slammed back in my seat and that the acceleration would feel insane. The fact is that it didnt. Dont get me wrong it was mental acceleration but i thought it would feel like more. The reason it didnt was the power delivery. The 7 litre V8 delivered such liner power with so much torgue down low that just kept building as the revs increased. And because there wasnt any noticable powerband it never gave you that shocking smash of power as it hit its powerband. It was all powerband... I rememeber him hammering redline in first gear n then 1/2 way thru second gear i thought- feels like we are doing just over a hundred now. I look across and see the speedo smashing past 155 to get to nearly 170 in second gear- all of which took roughly 6-7 seconds. Its all about power delivery. Peaky power and having a powerband that noticably kicks in makes a car feel alot faster than it is...

Have put in the new NGK O2 sensor, sealed up the filler cap leak so now have an airtight seal on the petrol tank, also put on a turbo-back exhaust and done a further tune and now down to 12.5L per 100km for brisk city driving. Stoked. Ill flush with injector cleaner and do a final tune and hopefully under 12L...

Definately leave room for error!. My cousin wrote off his Celica GT4 turbo by not leaving any room for said error. Oh, n watch out for black ice in winter!. I took a trip there in winter one time and had lined up getting laid with an American chick on holidays there. I just had to go and pick up my gear from a mates house n then meet her at the hotel. Lets just say i was driving 'briskly' and came into an intersection to take a right hand turn , i then hit black ice. A couple of 360's later and a venture onto the grass (luckily, not trees) i was back on my way with a uniquely tasmanian lesson learned- im from WA, 'black what?'. Epic shag though, would have been worth wrapping a car for it

Cant make exact sense of the situation you are trying to describe but i think it is 1 of 2 possible things. 1 -and this is normal and not anything to worry about- R33 skylines will idle higher than the base 650rpm idle speed until the car does in fact come to a dead stop. (possibly to generate enough power in the hydraulic systems to work everything such as brakes n power steering even if you are n neutral and the engine is only using idle speed but you are coasting at 100kmph). So yes, it uses the speed sensor to tell the engine to idle higher (usually between 900-1100rpm) until the car reaches a dead stop. Also- R33's will idle high due to autochoke remaining on until the the first time you come to a complete stop after the car has reached desired operating temp. Even if this is 30 minutes driving later that you first come to a stop. So again the ecu will monitor the speed sensor and only tell the autochoke to turn off at a time that the car has come to a complete stop. 2-this is a problem, but solved by simple maintenence the idle/choke mechanism is sticking and isnt working right because it has become dirty due to the age of these cars and can cause a variety of interesting idling characteristics from high idle to overly low idle. Iv had it before that my car would idle at over 1600rpm on autochoke and the autochoke would not turn itself off. I would have to turn the car off once it was warm and then restart it- and because the car was warm it would not engage the autochoke and so it would now idle at the normal rpm. if it is this you need to have the mechanism removed and cleaned out. good luck.

unable to get any extensive comment from peeps, only that it isnt used for drift due to its wheel-base n weight, especially when there were so many other cars out there that are better and cheaper for drifting purposes- eg. sr20det line-up

at a genuine 155k then there is heaps left in it if it has not been modified, boosted as well as thrashed and undermaintained. Definately get a compression/leakdown test tho to be sure (as well as a thorough prepurchase inspection by a garage that knows skylines well). The compression test is expensive on skylines cos of the intercooler piping and coilpacks needing to be removed but its the only way to be sure. (otherwise you can get a diagnostic computer to electronically check for the variance between cylinders. A cheaper and faster but less certain way.) Otherwise the gearbox should be throw easily n not synchr- clunk from 1-2nd, 2nd to 3rd in the usual/most abused sections of the box. Make sure maintenence records are somewhat decent and that the water pump n timing belt have been down around 100k kms. Check to see for excessive corrosion in the radiator/cooling system (common on skylines). If you dare on a test drive, give her a slide through a corner and make sure the LSD is still hooking up. otherwise the usual checks on: discs/pads. plugs n coilpacks. bushes n joints. syspension n steering are a must to avoid any nasty post-purchase surprises. Good luck. purchasing and owning a good Skyline is an utter pleasure.

Damn good question. Ill send this Q on to some friends of mine in Japan n see if they can comment. Id go for saying that they were like the Monaro in Aus. In most peoples eyes damn good, damn popular, commonish but still make people look, and of course there is always the bigger badder GTS that gets the bragging rights- just like the GTR-GTST

Hell yeah, get down to tassie. There is a reason they have the Targa Tasmania there. Iv been lucky enough to drive those roads many times, unlucky enough never to do it in a sports car- closest was as a passenger in my cousins 300kwatw HSV. There's f*k all cops out there too... Just be careful. Lots of shit to catch you out on those roads and lots of trees to make you pay for it. N it can be a long time till anybody will find you if it goes pear shaped..

if youve already put that much money into it and are selling it for that id go for sourcing a 2nd hand quite exhaust n BOV n induction and see if you like it with a bit more manners. Also swap out for some more chilled suspension. Did that for mine and love it. I get the best of both worlds now and am content

id go for fuel pump. They can throw up an array of symptoms but seem ok with prelim testing like you did. Otherwise vacuum leak...

anybody? or does anybody have any meaningful info on the typical things that go wrong with the A/C system on skylines so i can check those as likely causes?

after getting the new tuned ecu in and boost controller retuned I found that i was in the 20L/100km bracket for 'very spirited' driving. New O2 sensor goes in this week... Laid waste to an EVO so it was all worth it also girlfriend screaming real loud and grabbing the jesus bar and the roof under full acceleration. LMFAO

right you are. having said that, and even though I drive hard. Im still going to replace the O2 sensor on my r33 turbo. I just plain NEED better fuel economy than this!!!

yeah, hence not being fussed about replacing the O2 sensor. I just have that feeling that I should be getting a bit better efficiency from a 2.5 litre 6... But maybe im just getting more and more upset at the increasing cost ($) to do said 100km- aka fuel prices

Iv got an R33 GTST series1. This is the second series 1 iv owned and this one seems to have really poor air flow pressure even on full 4 bars of fan speed. The thing is that is if i put it onto 'auto' on the climate control it has heaps of air pressure on the same 4 bars of fan speed. Any idea why this might be and how to fix? Also the A/C seems to bounce around on how much cool air it delivers. Its had a new compressor put in but sometime it feels like it isnt putting any cold air into the system, other times it feels like it is working fine. Not sure if these 2 issues are related (I have a feeling they are) but if anybody has any ideas that would be great.... cheers Justin

yeah iv got one. I get about 12L to 100km. Fairly brisk city driving mostly. Not sure of the condition of the O2 sensor or the plugs. Im sure it could be better...

what sort of cat does it have in it?

He's going to be farking sore in the neck tomorrow. He obviously hit something right at his door which would have wrenched his neck big time. Never tried to drive really hard and/or show off in a mid-mounted engine car but im sure once the start spinning up its really easy for them to get well out of shape (doesnt detract from the fact the guy is a douche for crashing, and doing it in a busy area with kids etc around). good work on the pics and vid for our entertainment:p

Hey mate, very similar problem to what i had in my Honda years ago except my honda wouldnt stall. It just wouldnt start first try. It was the fuel pump.