jjman

best to trouble shoot and solve yourself before getting to the tune/dyno as if it isnt they will be charging you top dollar to trouble shoot your car, as well as to fix the problem that you could have easily done so from home...

so it was having blowby issues before and during putting the G3 and tune on? If so the motor was already troubled before chasing power?

haha. i hear you on that. I got to that point of finally everything sorted n then my HKS turbo let go on the dyno. Mechanic installed the wrong oil feed on it. Guess who bore the cost of that little incident tho? u can bet no grease monkey put up his hand...

hahaha, the trials and tribulations of import ownership...

i feel ur paranoia. INterested too see what this ends up being...

epic looking 10/10 champange colour (with matching rims) R34 GTR in mt lawley across from the Queens at about 6pm. giggety.

id say if it is leaking then fix it. Gotta rule out the obvious to be sure of narrowing down a problem... sorry to be the bearer of bad news but its likely that its the rubber hose that attaches to that braided line. prick of a job (unless you have some decent tools).

dang, fustrated yet? heater core?

does it really need to be off the FMIC piping? there are plenty of other feeds on an RB...

hey, yeah while ill agree that thats an adequate way to do it iv found it not to be consistent as well as quick (if u have 2 jacks/hydraulic jacks) and foolproof, as iv found this method. The RB25 is notoriously hard to get all the air out of,even with the bleed screw. Twice iv had my car come back from the mechanics (import specialists) with air still in the cooling system (and coolant mess around the bleed screw) Iv found this way the only sure way to do it first time every time. Which is the reason i always recommend it to people who are troubleshooting their cooling system because ruling out an air lock in the cooling system as a symptom of a problem (one of the easier things to do alongside radiator cap) is the best place to start. And the amount of people iv seen bleed an RB the standard way and still have air in the system and still left scratching their heads and going back to the drawing board when this was thier only problem or at the least it still prevented them from being able to see the true problem.

For less than $10 replace that radiator cap and go from there. Its the cause of many symptoms like this for skyline owners and is such an easy and cheap 1st option for troubleshooting. Especially as you ahve the symptom of the top hose not getting super hard at normal operating temp... That and follow this description on fully and confidently bleeding a skyline's infamous cooling system of air (10th post down) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406363-coolant-reservoir-problem-or-not/page__p__6476678__hl__cut%20bottle__fromsearch__1#entry6476678

that video is not for the type of coilovers you have for a R34 GTT. Adjusting damping is dead simple on your coilovers, just follow the directions in the manual that came with the coilovers. On this note, often its found that setting them to the softest setting on damping doesnt give the softest ride, a few clicks off totally soft in the back and a few more in the front is usually the best. As for the spring preload, by all means go for the softest possible. To do this basically have the preload as wound out as far as possible and then adjust your ride height by screwing in the mounting cyclinder at the bottom of the coilover. But beyond all this most of your ride comfort is going to be dictated by your spring rates that are in the coilovers you have bought. Standard BC's for skylines are 8kg front and 6kg rear, which is fairly firm and possibly a bit firm for people used to soft ride as well as driving in areas that have bumpy roads. Iv got 8kg&6kg in my R33 with the damping up way more than that (recommended above) as well as upgraded swaybars, strut braces and nolothane bushes all around (+18's & low profile tyres). And all this isnt too stiff for me. But this is driven in perth where the roads are alot smoother, melbourne is much more bumpy in the metro area and would certainly be too stiff a car for those conditions...

FTW cheers

so a nissan OEM temp sensor is $110 and repco doesnt seem to have a part listing/dont stock it but i swear somebody on here said something about a replacement sensor from repco or something for about 60-80... anybody?

nope, not possible. different connectors to the different sensors. Cant be accidentally reversed either.

interesting theory. Do you know if it is possible? and if so what bits get swapped? Ill have a look myself tomorrow morning. (its quite possible as i removed and replaced the cam cover a while back and had to do some unplugging around there...)

there was a discussion about this a while back and many R33 owners came forward and noted that their car was like this. Seems to be something normal and unproblematic and not (necessarily) because or a kerb bash and subframe and alignment damage. Tho not to say that this isnt the case with your car or some examples of this one wheel sitting out furhter that the other...

ah. no havent seen one of those. Though not sure where i would be looking to see that. Will have a gander and see what i come up with.

didnt you check what clearance you had then when you had those rims on? that way you would easily be able to tell what ur working with. Also your wheel alignmentsetup is going to play a part so what might fit on one car will rub on another...

I can almost garuntee that it isnt a stock ecu if it is running different injectors. Stock ecu's cant do it. to be honest id get that car in for a tune soon and attention from somebody that knows because if you are changing the fuel pressure over the shop you could really run into some trouble and damage the motor. Be prepared to be throwing coilpacks and perhaps a z32 ecu and even some proper aftermarket injectors at it in order to get it running right, safe, and making some reasonable power if indeed it has an aftermarket turbo on it...

dtc?

if it is stock height that will fit no worries, even with full sized tyres to the rims. Tho it may rub on the plastic splash guards in the fronts when turning hard, but it isnt hard to do that anyway. Nor is it a problem. If you lower the car you will need to roll the rear arches.

yes im aware that might be the case but i am trying to see if anybody has any experience in case this isnt the problem and im doing a job for nothing... It just seems strange that it comes up to temp as per normal and even sits at the normal operating temp but then wont go any higher.? seems like a strange choice of behaviour for a 'fried' thermosensor...

sorry to say mate that description and pic doesnt do much to help us diagnose it. Your best bet is to get in there with degreaser and wash all the evident oil off and then hose it down (avoid getting water onto electrical components- i find a kettle of hot water best for this job as you can pour the water exxactly where u want it and avoids overspray onto electrics, and the hot water helps to move the oil residue with the degreaser) then keep an eye on it over the following days and try to pinpoint the leak from exactly where it is coming from. Another problem in trying to diagnose when the leak is already there is that the engine and undercarriage section gets alot of air turbulence so you would be suprised how far from the source n in strange directions it can carry the oil leak...

if it has different injectors and turbo it will also have a different computer. Be good to know what that is. otherwise, sounds like typical coilpack or maybe air flow meter (if the computer uses one)