jjman

change the oil before starting it. when starting it crank it a few times n then shut it off before it fires. do this a few times to get some oil pmped around before letting it fire n at idle rpm. id drain the fuel but a lot of people say it can stay pretty good in that period. particularly if the tank was full and therefore minimal air in there to interact with. if it hasn't been rolled every 3 weeks then itl need new tyres as they will be flat spotted. otherwise id take it very easy for about 50km/30 mins until it warms up nicely and every little nook n cranny has fluid.

$500!? Done Id probably pay up to 2K for it if it was a reasonably trouble free mod. But that's also the other part of it that worries me is how trouble/worry free the mod would be.

no but iv driven one (25/30) a bit that was fully built, very well tuned and putting down 500hpatw. I couldn't complain about the torque curve at all... now thinking back I cannot remember if it did or did not have the VCT. maybe it did... but this is a slightly different equation. as the OP was regarding GTRs with VCT. For a 25 head and the fact it was already there I would indeed put the effort in to retain it, even in a 2530 build. For GTR's /26 head, and the cost of getting it in and working, no I would not. Hence saying I would spend the money on some other aspects of the car.

I can think of a million better things to spend 7k on than a VCT kit.

meh, who needs vct when you have 3L! esp a built 3L with E85 n a sweet turbo on it!

Any sort of warranty come with the motor?

also true. once you try an RB30 you know what you need.

As sweet as it sounds in theory, in reality I bet it would be an overly expensive mod that would make tuning more difficult as well as bring up problems and gremlins. If it was me id spend the money on really good turbos that best suit the desired outcome, other supporting mods (good actuators, ebc, pipes etc) as well as really good tuning.

armourall or mothers dash and trim. it is good but if the dash is old you will perhaps need to do it weekly for a month or 2 to really bring it up. it doesn't dry it out but if your dash is that old and element damaged it might seem this way. Try not to put it on extra extra thick as this will mean it will dry with some sheeny or chalky looking spots. It wipes away but you might be confusing this with dried out. I brought up the dash on my 75 celica back to perfection as easily as multiple applications of this stuff.

what makes you think it has a 2000model rb25det? and also, in other words u think they have used the block n pistons from the 2000 but slapped the head and ignitor system on from your 1993 model??

based on the 'post-burnout feedback' iv got 2 guesses to what happened... 1- didn't make it. 2- went boom.

got any research to back this up? iv never heard of this factor...

when I was doing my research on thermofans it was said that straight blades are better, just noisier. (sblades have less surface area at the tips where the most velocity is and air moving potential). Can you clarify this?

So, how was the burnout?

get an imperial ring spanner on it. it will 'almost fit'. make it fit by hammering it onto the nut. then use the aforementioned leverage/breakerbar techniques.

ill buy you a new set of stockie rims and tyres if you take it this far http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unwujSVpZwA

yeah power fc flashes a light. so at least its something. also it logs the knock levels/events from memory have a look on some other threads on the nistune stuff as its a can of worms and a complex issue so don't want to hijack this thread with it. it also of course depends on whether you use a z32 (incompatibility issues) or r32 (no vct etc) ecu for the purpose. I hope you have some cheap chinese tyres for the skids so they squeal nice n loud n also don't last too long. be nice to get several skidz out of the R33

haha, have you or anybody you know actually got a tune to work properly with nistune + knock detection on an r33? often it is pitched as having the same benefits as a stock ecu + systems but it is one of its many faults and problems... heat shield off + bonnet off wont cook wiring unless the wiring that is running thru there is loose. I certainly wouldn't recommend it for permanent use + bonnet on.

if it has the stock dump pipe off the turbo its going to go boom. also likely if it has a stock cat (just because it has a connon doesn't mean the rest of the exhaust was upgraded). if it has any of this do it a huge favour and get a 3" dump pipe for the even and remove the rest of the exhaust. Also remove the bonnet and heat shield off the turbo if possible. if it is running the stock computer you might find she will take it without too much trouble as its a pretty soft 'tune' and has knock and temp protection. if its a tuned vehicle, particularly nistune (no knock detection/protection), then it is going to get hurt more. As for in the skid, try not to just have it bouncing off the limiter. 4-6k in second gear is the sweet spot for an Rb25 burnout Do take video. everyone loves a skid whether they will admit it or not. And kudos to you for doing it in a legal and responsible place. Go hard mate.

yeah it takes some practice to get good n refine ur techniques. also that ur planes being levelled up plays a huge factor. when u get to this point it is really engaging.

which level are you playing at now that it has shifted to the narrower tier system?

bit of a thread resurrection but any of you still playing warthunder and how have you found the updates? think we are up to 1.37 now. a couple of updates have been a bitch but otherwise im still loving it.

win. put up a pic when ur done of how it turns out. also you might have a few new rattles or noises from the box. nothing to be freaked about, sikaflex works a charm.

18x9.5+15 is way too much for GTST guards without major work plus camber n stretch etc etc. 17x9+22 will work but need some mods to get to fit n will prob rub the fronts.

yeah id say sand it to a smooth texture if possible n then spray. even then, iv heard that the test most cops like to try is the grab n pull. if they do this n shit moves or breaks off they are likely to give the defect. You think it will stand up to that?