jjman

do a search. there is heaps of info out there on cluster issues like this and the possible problems and solutions.

this is true. if you are still running the stock OEM R32 GTR injectors then id say you would be very wise to upgrade to some new and or bigger ones + tune. bad injectors are as quick a way to kill a motor as a bad fuel pump- well almost...

good work. makes sure that foam doesn't end up looking like an excuse for a bored cop to defect tho...

yeah I got this too (the clackety clanging, not the shaking) when I go away n then come back n go to restart the car. so now when i go to restart my car I crank it until it almost fires n then shut it off. I do this 3-5 times which pumps oil around the motor without it coming up to any serious revs and so that when I do let it fire it doesn't make the clackety clunk routine. Having said this it was on my GTST and was most likely the hydraulic lifters needing some oil in them. Nonetheless, It still may fix what your issue is too in some way as the motor would be getting pretty dry after 4-8 weeks. But if it doesn't, maybe look for some more extreme elements of wear in the motor... Beyond this, it sounds like your car is struggling to get fuel or spark to a cylinder for a bit hence the shaking (sounds like a misfire).

both look decent, but doesn't necessarily mean it will on a skyline. e.g. you don't have as much wheel arch on a skyline as a 350Z. You haven't even talked about offset either...

id say look at the AFM (do a search on faulty afm's)- though off the top of my head I cant remember if the AFM has an influence at idle. Otherwise, you might find that you have put the CAS back on out of alignment and so the timing is retarded and not burning the fuel properly. Also do a search on correct checking of the timing with a light (e.g. from plug 1, not the signal wire which can be a bit incorrect).

yes that hose should go into the pipe the MAF is on. it is the cam cover breather hose. that ticking noise could well be the common R33 timing belt cover resonance sound. very common to get it and for it then to disappear when the cover is off. nonetheless, it would be worth making sure it isn't the cam belt or any other belt rubbing on something or a bearing on its way out. Finally, it doesn't sound like your BOV is working correctly as it shouldn't be building pressure and dosing that easily from my recollection. stock turbo and stock BOV? from here you need to plug in with a consult and computer and make sure that the ECU is seeing correct temps (75-80deg when warm) and correct airflow figures as well as you are sure you don't have any boost leaks. often a leak between the turbo and the manifold will cause excessive rich running as its losing air from the system so their is too much fuel for the air that the engine ends up with... = black smoke and running rich.

iv always used the Castrol edge titanium 10w40 in W.A. summers and seemed to do the trick just fine. Not sure about your built engine tolerances tho so the recommendation to check with the builder is a good one. Nonetheless, as the motor was recommended stock to run 7.5W30, I think 10w40 is a good number for these older motors and warmer conditions. Also a fully syn is far beyond the requirements the guidelines note.

nice work

e.g.

I did a similar thing with mine. I got the Perspex from bunnings (u can cut with a grinder or anything really) and the rubber edging from clark rubber which I glued onto the Perspex with sikaflex. cut the Perspex to the required shape to make an airbox that basically seals against the bonnet (1-2cm of clearance) and then use the rubber edging to complete the seal. Bottom line is you are never going to get a perfect seal so a good job will do 99% of the effect desired. The main intent is to block the air from the engine bay and make the easiest air for it to breathe from the cold air entry.

yes doing the 'compression check' check via switching off cylinders and the the program monitoring the cranking differences in voltage can give an idea if there is anything serious going on. I did with mine before purchase (indicated less than 2% variance between the cylinders overall) and think it was a worthwhile check. I think you need the full nistune license program for this. Also don't be turning up to inspect a car as your first time trying to connect to a skyline ecu via a consult cable. most people have a lot of comport and troubleshooting issues to get the connection working right the first time. (took me 3 hours of troubleshooting before I got it to work).

yeah, similarly mine made it to 207rwkw. but then at 220rwkw it was sucking shut intermittently. Bitch of a thing not knowing when ur going to get power or if the power is going to nose over above 4500rpm... just the replacement alloy intake pipe alone freed up another 8rwhp.

for spirited street driving and the occasional track and strip day is it really worth doing? To do both must be serious $$ Im looking at getting a 33 GTR soon and all things being equal I don't mind tail happy and thoroughly enjoyed my GTST in this. However is the way these aged GTR diffs/transfer cases operate unpredictable? Like a LSD's often are in GTST's where sometimes they hook up other times they don't... I had a friend who had an older GTR and they said it was a bit unpredictable how the AWD was going to kick in and that does not sound like a good time...

people have done the external gate thing before on 2535's. I think there is a bit to be gained but prob not worth the fking about unless you can do it urself. Its a small turbo which is going to struggle to flow much more air from that compressor wheel methinks... A good EBC and actuator gets the most out of the 2535 (had one myself. good little turbo )

Basically yes. Some people get away with it, most don't at those kinds of power levels (they warp/ or suck shut). Beyond that is that you will get better flow/power with an intake pipe.

what was the difference you noticed between an old case and a new rebuilt one? (did you have it rebuilt to stock spec or modified?)

any word on its condition mate?

To me this reeks of head gasket and iv even had exactly these symptoms in a car I had years ago that did the head gasket. If you let the car idle long enough to heat up does it still keep putting fluid out the pipe? If so, quite likely HG...

look forward to it

haha, I need to see a video of this bad boy in action. Post one up mate, we need to hear it in all its glory

if the guy at the shop is any good then get him to evaluate whether is can be modified to not hit and stick on the dumb (bit of grinding etc). Otherwise just get a big bell mouth dump that's tried and tested on skylines.

doubt it. carsales link says not available anymore and the price on that ad was 16,500 (without wheels I think). So probably sold for 16,500 id say- lot of car for that money :S

I like where ur head is at.

we are assuming that you installed it yourself by the OP, in which case this is normal. but if you do indeed mean you had it installed and it had an oily sheen on it upon first inspection and smoked then just keep an eye on it and make sure that the oil lines have been done up correctly by the installer and aren't leaking onto the turbo continuously.