jjman

often yes. but iv always found that Shannons are A1. When my car was stolen (see my thread here for that one) they took 2.5 weeks to declare it written off, settled and money in my account without any mucking around. They are truly awesome. Good luck with yours though mate. n regardless of a good payout is that they have destroyed the think we loved and spent so many hours learning about, working on, and enjoying. N they just go n f**k it up. Lowest of the low.

samurai sword had always been my favourite. 'it was just an ornament iv had for years, it was the first thing I saw n just grabbed it'

Ah, then yes, I feel your sentiment of not wanting it back... Insured I hope.? Hahaha, when my car was stolen n the cops werent taking it seriously I told them they should take it seriously cos they will have f**k all chance of catching it if its in the right hands. Hopefully this teaches them...

that is text book coil-pack troubles. From the symptoms of power loss at those revs to also being occurring at normal operating temps. Also if you've had trouble with the coils before then id say tape is a temporary fix. Yellow jackets don't have the best reputation. Id also be inclined to check your earthing as if the coils were pretty new then you might not be earthing correctly forcing the spark to do weird things. Beyond this, potentially AFM (clean the wire as well as check the internal solders for a dry solder). But id put good money on coil pack issue.

you can tell that from your keyboard sitting there that they aren't that bad, and also that what you have run before was worse? cmon. tho im not saying that isn't the only fix required. or perhaps even a fin grind n balance. but to assume it and whack them back on a nice RB26 is just silly.

wait till you get it back and assess its condition before you think along those lines. You never know how easy they have taken it until that point to avoid attention and what made them call it a day n dump it. Otherwise, even if they have given it some berries often they just chew the clutch out in 5 mins and that's it. compression test, gearbox check, and otherwise condition of the car. otherwise all else are replaceable consumables.

do it. I was similarly thinking of such measures but didn't get around to it. My car was stolen in Oct and still MIA... Also security systems and immobilisers mean FA these days as the crims know it is on there. There are always stolen via the actual keys getting stolen.

just because it feels fine doesn't mean it is fine... get it checked out thoroughly mate. No point in going for the cheap option just to have more headaches and costs down the road.

if ur compressor wheel is that chewed then im thinking she has had a rough life n otherwise the imbalance from all this will have worn the bearings etc. Probably time to start fresh with a new core... (garrett don't do bearing kits for their turbos anymore from memory)

yep. and the silly thing is we do it knowing this. I wont be doing it again after last year seeing a car come off its jacks. thankfully nobody underneath and wheels were still on too, so no harm done. just a good lesson.

yeah I should have qualified my above statement with don't be getting underneath it with those jacks, nor letting kids around it. I honestly swear I have never gotten under the car with just jacks....

unless its old and rusty and also that you have not jacked it up crooked then it will be fine. Just don't lean on the car or bang it with those little jacks as they can bend at the feet n the jack collapse bringing the whole car come down...

even though you replaced the ball joints there is a stack of other bushes that could be worn and knocking and in my experience is the cause of knocking 95% of the time. check on this diagram and you can see how many bushes may be the culprit... http://www.nolathane.com.au/do_segue.php?make=NISSAN&model=SKYLINE&model_final=SKYLINE+R33+GTS%2C+GTS-T+RWD&vehicle=1%2F93-12%2F98

yeah def check heater hoses or even the turbo coolant feed line. I had that split one time and I had to have a real search for it. Also, if it is that, have fun changing it. it can be a doozy..

ill believe this when I see it. IME air con work costs a shitload. on the plus side. you will have a fresh aircon system that has a warranty. Something that most of us in S1 R33's would give our firstborn for... (I live in WA)

has anybody been to them recently since they moved to obsbourne park? im wondering if he has more staff and support now as well as better premises. the Welshpool one was like a dogs breakfast both in the office as well as the workshop...

inside the AFM or actually on top of it? also, no vacuum hose connects the afm to the manifold...

I remember that I tried to use a series 2 reo on my series1 and there were differences enough not to use it. tho I had a custom front bar too...

fair enough. I hear you just be careful with a stock turbo as there is the small chance that if it lets go (highly likely if u keep it on there very long or run it a boost) that when it lets go its will smash the compressor wheel and send it into the motor. Obviously requiring a rebuild...

aren't the reinforcement bars different tho? and so don't you need the correct series reinforcement bar to support the given bumper?

how come they are fork type? aren't 34 gtt a flat top the same as 33 gtst?

bottom line is they are old turbos and the kind of flow a 30 is going to give it I see a turbo failure in its very near future. decide on your turbo setup and shell the $ for it and do it all at once. no point in scrimping at this stage. (but on that note, why go this far and also go for stock rods and pistons?). otherwise, im sure hypergear can sort you with a suitable turbo for the application at a damned good price. GL

its an oil line that is 15-20 yrs old, and with the restrictors they have in them they will undoubtedly gather deposits and block over such a period of time. you are sorted for boost and tune now

this. damn, so close. my mate did this and he reckoned it was about 10-15 seconds before the belt came off lunching the valves with the pistons and ending the otherwise healthy motor's life. be careful mate.

I thought they were around the +20 mark...? regardless, 10" is pretty big for the front of a gtst and will need some thought work and appropriate tyre sizing.