R32GTS4NZ

Hi guys since last week have replaced blow off valve, intercooler hose clamps checked over everytrhing to make sure a hose hasn't come off. Pulled of the dump pipes to check turbo play etc and make sure the exhaust wheels were still intact and i still have the problem! using a manual bleed valve was able to get the boost gauge to read 12-13psi Anyone have any ideas on where to check next? Cheers

Have used searches and haven't been able to find the issue

Hi guys i have an rb26 and currently it has stopped making it's maximum boost. At wastegate pressure its only making about 5psi istead of about 7.5 at 10psi only making about 8 and 12.2 only making about 10psi also the boost is comming on late, any ideas of what the problem could be? Other than this car appears to run fine. Using a hks electronic boost controller and factory ecu. Wastegates have adjustable threads on them.

Sorry forgot to mention I do have tein adjustable coilovers, could possibly but very minimal, guards do not appear to be rolled. Here are wheel alignment results Front castor left and right are both 4 degrees 24 minutes camber left is negative 2 degrees right is negative 1 degree 54 minutes toe is all 0 Rear Camber left wheel is 2 degrees 24 minutes right wheel is 2 degrees 48 minutes both to is 0.01" SAI left is 16 degrees 35 minutes and right is 16 degrees 16 minutes

R33 Gtr block engine been rebuilt, believe it to be r33 head still unsure of kms and internal modifications Factory r33 turbos Pod filters Exhaust from front pipe back Stock ecu Electronic boost controller hks Walbro pump everything else stock 7.5psi - 205rwkw 10 psi - 235rwkw 12.2psi 261.3 rwkw Rather happy with results more to gain with an aftermarket ecu and so on

I have a R32 gts4 and one of the front wheels is closer to the wheel arch causing it to rub over bumps. According to my alignment report both wheels have exactly the same castor however one wheel is definately closer to the side. I can fit two fingers behind the front left tyre between the tyre and the guard however only one and about a half fingers behind the front right wheel and the guard. This is the problem. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks in advance!

Ok thank you for that, I should be looking at it soon. What else is good to look for? bearing in mind it is no longer in the car.

hey there everyone, I am looking at purchasing an rb26dett for my gts4. The compression test on the one i am looking at is as follows. 1:165 2:171 3:171 4:169 5:165 6:166. Does this appear to be a healthy engine? Anyones opinion is greatly appreciated. Cheers

Issue solved, alarm immobilizer fried

Hey all The other day I managed to set part of my engine wiring loom on fire right next to the turbo and fuse a few of the wires together. silly mistake however now I have no power when the key is in the on position so no power windows aircon or dash lights. I cannot hear the fuel pump prime or anything however the turbo timer does light up. when i turn to the starter the relay clicks under the dash and the power is being drained (clock dims) yet the starter motor does not turn over. The alarm works fine as does the stereo in acc. I have pulled apart the melted bit of the loom (right next to turbo) and pulled the individual wires apart to where they are not melted then taped around the copper. Any ideas on what the problem could be and how to get my car started? I have replaced all the blown fuses and they have not blown again. Car is a manual r32 gts4 Cheers