benjiman74

We should respect the xr6 turbo being a 4 door sedan with grunt but performance? - bang for your buck the skyline gtr r33, which is in the same price bracket simply hoses them!

To all - ask Famous who the underwriter (insurance Co) is - its an unlicensensed offshore insurer. Good luck if you are involved in a third party prang with a Merc ie: limited funds in Aus to pay claims. For the extra $ go with an Aus based Co that have a door you can approach should you have a dispute.

well done meshmesh! got to love the 2530's but i'm not convinced that your peak gain was a true 50rwkw. I notice that the 270 on bens dyno was not in shootout mode and his dyno figures are notoriously low. the 320 at Mk automotive was in shootout mode. take the usually 10% off and you are closer to 290. it would be intersting to see the results from the same dyno in the same mode.

"Mine (turbo timer) runs off the injector duty cycle and calculates the time I have driven harder then runs the car down while I get my stuff together." So what happens when you go for a 30 min drive, pushing it hard for the first twenty minutes then cruise the last ten. Your calculator will determine that your injector duty cycle has been running at near its max for 2/3 the time but because you cruised the last 1/3 in reality your temps are down. Your turbo timer may think it needs a lengthy cooldown in this situation. Your own brain is a better real world calculator of what has transpired. While you're 'getting your stuff together' you can let the car cool then simply turn the key off when you leave the vehicle.

i'll buy the centre rear and drivers front if they're in top nick.

didn't ben have his dyno recalibrated two weeks ago? you may be making the same power but the dyno is reading different. What did ben say?

scarface pulp fiction heat drugstore cowboy two hands

skylinegeoff - I agree with your comments, but i wasn't advocating drifting into your driveway on 20psi then shutting the car down immediately. IMO 10 - 20 secs cooldown is more than enough - hardly justifies the need for a turbo timer however some people just love gadgets, each to their own.

Zagan - turbo timers are a waste of time/money when fitted to a car such as the skyline thats turbo chargers are both oil and water cooled. Letting the car idle for two minutes is simply a waste of fuel but your mates might think its cool that you can lock your car and walk away with the engine still running. To add insult to injury the first thing a would be car thief will look for is a turbo timer, it gives them easy access to the engines direct power feed. turbo timers should be sold in a kit with monster tachos, alloy pedal covers and those nice windscreen squirters with integrated lights.

Waiting on a pic of the exhaust mate. If you dont have one i can view in person as im in melb. thanks ben

Sold - PM sent

same.

I agree with Steve, Nissan put it there for a reason. Last year my mate put a one piece in his warm VL thinking it would eliminate the need for the centre bearing etc. The tailshaft was quite thick in the wall and it was balanced. Lasted around 6 months then let go at 210kmh, made a mess of the floor, stuffed the gearbox output shaft and also the diffs pinion gear. $3,000 later for floor and mechanical repairs. I know its a different car but the same principals apply, i remember touring car commodores raced with the centre bearing still in place.

Duncan - i believe the re55s comes in two compounds Sydney - the spring rates are in excess of 700lb fr / 500lb rear. How does this tie in with "the whiteline philosophy", ie dont use greater than 250lb rears even on a race car

Sounds nice, whats the difference in specs between the bcnr34n1's and the nur's?

the r33 gtr pump is not compatible with the drive on the earlier r32 rb26 crank.

Heres another one for the against. I haven't heard of an rb26 having a head gasket failure. From what I understand the pistons will usually fail before the head gasket lets go in an rb26. A mate of mine whos just built a tough FJ sought advice from Ray Hall regarding o-ringing and was strongly advised against it. His suggestion was ensure both the head and block are true and use the original nissan head gasket and you wont have a problem. He is running a gt35 @ 2 bar. hope this helps to your decision making.

Anyone after a cheap turbo upgrade?

edr34 - The n1's I'm selling are the turbochargers fiited to a r34 gtr N1.

Sorry guys - sold, I still have a pair of r34 n1's and some Tien Coilovers if anyones interested

wreckedhead - the r32 box doesn't even have the upgraded synchros that came with r33 series 2 & 3 boxes

still 4 sale

A genuine stud and nut is around $5. Remove your wheel, caliper then disk. Knock whats remaining of the old stud through and replace with the new stud. Tighten the wheel nut to pull the stud through on its spline till its home then remove nut and reassemble. Should take about 15mins. Hope that helps.

bump - detailed pic is to large to post but will send to email address if req'd