fattox33

Price Drop - $200. Quoted price from Japan Autos in Clontarf, $200 for full loom

So Millennium Motorsport does do Links, I only need a 2wd dyno but I hear good things about them.

Hey all, Just wondering who you go to in QLD for your tuning, and what your opinion of them is? I've (almost) got a Link G4 Plug-In, and was wondering where to go to get the best tune? I need a tune for the moment (just a basic fairly standard motor tune) but will need a retune once the build-up for 500rwhp is done. Suggestions? I'd prefer someone who knows what they're doing obviously, and knowledge of Link tuning is a preferred thing.

still up for questions here, see previous!

Have a full ECU wiring loom up for sale, with engine bay fusebox and a few other bits attached Located in Bundaberg, QLD until the 19th, coming home to Toowoomba with me from then on. PM on here or text 0413475969 if you're interested, will not part it out. $300ono posted, offers welcome.

where's the pic?? lol

bump bump bump show me what ya got

QUOTE (KiwiRS4T @ 9 Jul 2010, 03:53 AM) * Intank Bosch is 040. Shouldn't need fpr or new fuel rail (unless you're getting some odd-ball injectors). it's going from side feed standard injectors to top feed 750cc's so i thought i'd need a rail? would a TR44 wheel from that mob in brissy be even worth looking at out of curiosity? and i'd rather the 0.86, ill talk to a friend down here who made 472rwhp with the gt3582 and see what housing he had.. i don't want an overly large lag, like i understand im gonna have to expect some going from a highflowed standard turbo being on full by around 2000rpm lol... i'd honestly be happy with 480rwhp (360rwkw), it's still a pretty decent power figure, in the end of the day like i said, will be tuned for daily driving, the dyno sheet will basically just be a wank sheet when i do sell it (trust me, I will eventually!) another thing i'm curious about is cam timing, i know i have got some form of cam replacing the standard but i have no clue what size, like i said the engine has been replaced and it came as is, the mechanic who built it doesn't know the timing as the cams were done with tuning, im guessing 256deg... i was thinking of up-rating the entire valvetrain anyway, tomei all through so valve spring seat shims, solid lifters and a big lift/big duration cam (270deg).. would 270 degrees be too long on the exhaust timing as well as intake timing?

it's going from side feed standard injectors to top feed 750cc's so i thought i'd need a rail? would a TR44 wheel from that mob in brissy be even worth looking at out of curiosity? and i'd rather the 0.86, ill talk to a friend down here who made 472rwhp with the gt3582 and see what housing he had.. i don't want an overly large lag, like i understand im gonna have to expect some going from a highflowed standard turbo being on full by around 2000rpm lol... i'd honestly be happy with 480rwhp (360rwkw), it's still a pretty decent power figure, in the end of the day like i said, will be tuned for daily driving, the dyno sheet will basically just be a wank sheet when i do sell it (trust me, I will eventually!)

what size?

chasing a 3 inch diff-back section to bolt straight up to an R33 setup would prefer a HKS Super Drager as it's what was there, centre is rusted out on mine. anything HKS/Kakimoto/Apexi etc. jap brands preferred. don't want to spend overly much, say $200 plus freight? PM or reply here. Thanks

NB: current parts list, edit and add others if you see the need or if i've missed something =D Garrett GT3582 - 0.82 rear Wastegate - Tial Sport 38mm Turbo Manifold (high mount) Plazmaman intake manifold kit (piping/plenum/silicone/bigger tb) Fuel System Upgrade - Bosch 044/750CC injectors/Sard rail/Malpassi FPR) APEXI AVC-R boost controller Link G4 Plug-In ECU Spool Conrods ARP Rod Bolts I figure if I go with forged conrods it probably means I can crank maximum recommended boost out of that turbo and aim for over 500rwhp, as I said it'll be getting down-tuned for street duties (cops are arseholes in Toowoomba/i'm a poor uni student and need something reliable-ish) All help is immensely appreciated

thanks for all the help guys, sorry I did actualy get the A/R wrong on the rear I had a different turbo in mind (or had a fk up, either or it's my bad!) I was talking to a mate, and for the sake of an extra $1500-$2000 it may well be worth looking into getting some decent forged I-beams and fitting them up, a friend in town is a qualified mechanic who's doing weekend cashies, has built an RB25 and a 25/30 from the ground up with pretty high power so I figure i'll talk to him to get some forged rods and ARP rod bolts, all the bearings are ACL bearings, the motor is pretty well nearly built for that sort of power as it is, the only weak link would be the rods and possibly it would be worth looking into flowing the head a bit better, i mean im spending close to $10k as it is on just parts and tuning so why not spend a few hundred extra for some head goodies while the head is off? i figure with an AVC-R and a decent cam duration it wouldn't have too much trouble building boost, especially when i get bored and turn on antilag =P

Hey all, Will be building up my RB25 R33 for approx. 500rwhp around April 2011, and need to know a few things before I start.. Background - the motor currently has stage 1 HKS cams and exhaust cam gear (adjustable), however I am unsure of the timing as the motor was bought secondhand.. i assume around 262-264 possibly? also has ACL forged standard bore pistons, and race bearings all round. running on standard conrods at the moment. New parts - Will be upgrading with the following: Garrett GT3582R .67 rear (700hp capable), 750CC injectors, Sard fuel rail, Malpassi rising rate FPR, walbro intank pump, high mount manifold, plazmaman front facing plenum, and Link G4 plug-in ECU. I'm shooting for 500hp, so using the rate of approximately 20% loss through a manual drivetrain that puts engine/flywheel power at 600hp... I want to know if anyone here has ever run an RB25 on this sort of power, I assume it'll need to be running between 22-30 psi of boost, but this will only be for a dyno run to prove capability, the engine will be down-tuned to around 300rwkw or approx. 400rwhp for daily use. Also if anyone knows, what is the approximate breaking/failure point of standard Nissan conrods in an RB25? I know I'll probably need to upgrade them in the near future anyway, but I understand that dyno-runs at 500hp and daily driving at 400hp exert different stresses on the motor (dyno offers a lot less friction so bigger numbers are easier to obtain without overly much damage to the motor). TL:DR; will 500hp dynoed and 400hp daily tune kill my standard RB25 rods? pistons are forged.

EDIT - I MEANT 10.5's on the rear, they don't make the CE28's in a 10 inch wide

Hey all, just curious as to whether anyone has fitted a set of 18x10 rears on a 33 gtst without problems? Looking for a set of Rays CE28's and not sure what rear offset to use for the car quite yet... Any help appreciated

IMO - Link ECU from Link Automotive, they do quite a good RB25 plug-in model (looks factory but is fully adjustable and has heaps of features), will set you back $1675 from a dealer up in townsville and probably the rest to tune it

search yahoo auctions if your after r34 front lights you can pick up a set for around $800 imported