SargeRX8

Wow nothing good came of that. I hope it was insured. I get paranoid about parking my car on the road. If I ever get eyed out or think someone was following me, I park it in the garage. Crims want our cars, cops hate our cars, majority of other people hate our cars. Theres only a small portion of us yet everyone has a problem with us. Its great. Someone took a photo of my car because I revved the engine for some kids. Had I known earlier I would have made them delete the photo but only found out days after.

Doesn't sound right at all with your ebc. Ive got the same thing and I hold 19psi just fine on a 15psi actuator. Are you sure its not faulty? I see a problem with running only on wastegate and that's from heatsoak. When the actuator gets hot how well will it still behave? Would the spring soften up at all and open prematurely? I don't know if they're affected but I know I'd want a boost controller there so I can have full control of what I want my curve to do. Also thats alot of boost you're running untuned.

Why does an emissions test concern you when you won't pass the noise test first.

Kb clutch engineering. Had this in my car for ages. Supports big torque and power single plate carbotic clutch.

Gonna be tough to find mine came with my valve. Check around on ebay and gumtree find someone selling that bov and if they have the adapter to sell it to you. Or if you know anyone who can weld ask them to make you one. Shouldnt be hard at all.

Or you can buy the blitz return add on and turn that one I to a plumb back. I had the fitting for it when I had that bov.

Hey all, Just a quick question, its not an easy one to answer but if anyone has a rough idea that would be great. I want to change most, if not all the bushings in the rear of my R33 GTST. Been hearing a clunk everytime I take the car for a drive and drive over the first bump. It will only do it once and the its fine. Also Ive put the metal pineapple things between the subframe to compensate but I feel with the tramping from the rear that something is still up with it. Is this a DIY job or would it be nearly impossible to press out some of these bushes. I really want to do the diff, subframe and control arms on the rear as well as get my half shafts redone since I think the CV joints on the back are shaggered now, they sound like they crack everytime I take off or move into reverse. Nothing looks broken but it doesn't feel too right. I was thinking maybe buying a subframe and doing all the bushes then replacing my subframe since its out of the car and I can take it to a shop while I still use my car. Anyone have any inputs or suggestions? Should I go solid at in any points? What brand and can someone tell me where to source the parts locally rather than eBay or what not. I don't want to sacrifice what little comfort I have left but do not care about noise travel(leaning towards solid diff bushes, if they are not harmful). Cheers all.

Chemweld is rubbish. Don't use that shit. As both above have suggested water is getting in from somewhere not the headgasket which is either A a cracked head or B the oil warmer/cooler below the oil filter.

You didn't look hard enough. There's an awesome tutorial full of pictures and even for the same car. Its in the tutorial section or google skyline cleaning aac valve. Your ignition system won't be the cause of hunting.

Elaborate in a pm please. The only way I have found to get 300 off is if I change ownership of the car into my mums name.

Hey I want one of those on my SS2 rear housing but I think if you give the flexibility of being able to weld the pipe in anywhere we like and just build ports into the housings would be great.

Sorry to hear about your losses. Ive gotta add to this though. Sure none of them were driving v8s or turbos but believe you me there is a huge difference in driving a slow car at high speed vs driving a proper fast car. If you just got onto your ps and I gave you a manual excel told you to floor it down a one way length of roas. Youll be fine. If I gave you my skyline and told you to do the same thing you would potentially lost it before you got into second. I let a mate of mine drive my car. Hes never driven turbo and hes on his fulls. I told him to give it some and the moment from 1 to 2nd broke out he panicked and slammed on the brakes. This isnt experience you gain from a piece of plastic. You gotta learn fo crawl before you walk the figure out walking before you start running or youll fall down and hurt your self. What if your mates were daily drivers of big v8 cars. Do you think as a young p plater they would respect the car or is it just a bigger faster louder toy.

As GTSboy said. Sell and buy a turbo.

Absolute bullshit. No accidents at fault, no demerit points and my CTP has gone up again this year. What a load of BS. I even changed the post codes around put a north sydney post code and a new model car. Seems the only affecting factor now is age and I could have sworn when you pass the age of 25 your costs were meant to drop. Gonna cost more than 1k this year just to get on the road. Does anyone know of any other comprehensive car companies apart from Just Car who will do my R33?

I get some heat around the passenger footwell but thats because of the dump pipe which could also contribute to your heat. I also get alot of heat around the handbrake and gear shift region.

If anyone else has a Nismo exhaust on their R33 can you check if this is how your clearances look? I'm trying to determine if its the exhaust moving and hitting the tailshaft or if its the tailshaft hitting the exhaust and honestly I don't know now. The exhaust has very little up and down movement but has side to side. The tailshaft, around the middle support thing what ever its called, has some play in it, in all directions. If I give the exhaust a really good shake I can make it hit the tail shaft but I really can't see that type of force applied by bumps on the road. In the third pic you can see the point of contact that dark patch is a clean patch where the tailshaft is hitting the muffler. Does anyone know where I can buy the HKS hi power exhaust mid muffler section? Ive checked online and most are in the UK.

Could these sensors pickup the heat of the cooler piping it self? After a long drive almost any metal in and around the engine is untouchable.

What about the turbo? Its a highflow but what type and highflowed by who and is that what you're happy with?

Doesn't sound good man. A note whenever the engine is running hotter than usual is to switch on your heater to max heat max speed. Ill keep an eye on this thread. I suspect the head may have been exposed to too much heat for too long and potentially warped which is a common effect of overheating. I just dont know how you diagnose this.

Or make your own smoke tester!

What do you mean? This isnt a warranty issue. He got shafted. He did not get the parts he wanted or expected. How much knock as a number? It should show you the reading as a digita bar display and as a peak number. I dont think its a great idea shoving a 3071 core into a 21u. Its like putting a lion on a leash.

Mmm yeah when you dyno tune you just can't get to the really light loads. Its not the tuners fault as alot of tuners believe the dyno is the be all end all. My car was tuned in dyno for a good 4hrs. On very very light throttle the car does cannot gain rpm. The mix is too lean it just coughs and splutters. Abit of throttle enrichment should do the trick. What id do is tell the tuner to grab his laptop and jump in the car while you drive and have him adjust the cells and throttle enrichment. Shouldn't take long at all with a savvy tuner.

Yeah but thats no gtx. Again though the receipt says stealth gtx. I think what you might have is a high flowed turbo with 3071 core. It can be done but the housing is small and 250rwkw is on par with a highflow. Yes its very likely a 3071 highflow which he could say is what he gave you when he says stealth. You must say to him that no matter what he says a gtx3071 jammed into a 21u housing is not a true gtx3071 which is what you asked for. How much knock are you reading on the power fc?

Can you get some photos up. Will be very easy to determine what has and hasnt happened. Now I also question if he put your fuel pump in.

Knocking is thanks to a shit tune. If it looks like a stocker its not a garrett unless he fitted a high flow if thats what you asked for. This guy sounds dodgey and I'd be going back there maybe with a mate or two and dont ask. You tell. You ask and they will put it over you. You go in there say mate got some problems first things first this is a stock turbo I payed you for an aftermarket and a tune and what you gave me was stock and the engine is pinging. But things is if you asked for a garrett turbo did you pay for a new dump? Garretts have a different bolt pattern. What you can do is pull the intake pipe and look into the turbo. You should be able to tell if its stock or a highflow. if you so happen to have an r33 feel the comp wheel and it should feel like plastic if its a stocker.