SargeRX8

Doesn't make any sense ive got my boost controller after the throttle body between the intercooler and turbo and I get vacuum. If there is no vacuum the you are suggesting that if I seal the pod filter in an air tight container that it will run fine. This isnt the case. The engine is sucking in air all the time when it is not on boost and air like water will take the path of least resistance so if he has a leak anywhere after his intake valves air will come in. my boost controller reads -96. No idea what that means in terms of vacuum but thats greddys display.

Get a can of start ya bastard and then go around the joints and spray them. Where there is a boost leak, could potentially be a vacuum leak and if thats the case, the spray will get sucked into the engine and it will alter the sound and RPM. I think you can use WD40 but DO NOT HOLD ME TO THAT. Others use butane torches and just piss gas on the joints, same principle, gas goes in alters sound indicates leak. Its gonna be from one of your silicone connectors. If you've got a pod filter you can quickly jig up a PVC or other material with a tyre valve in it then drop down to the local petrol station, remove the pod and AFM and fit in your jig. Connect the tyre inflator to your valve on the jig and set the machine to a couple PSI then fill it up and listen for leaks. If you don't understand what I mean, basically you want to go to bunnings pickup a 3" diameter PVC end cap or a PVC end cap which will fit in the 3" silicone connector and be air tight when clamped down. Then you want to go to a tyre shop and pick up a tyre valve for a couple of dollars. Drill a hole in the end cap big enough to let the valve slip in and boom away you go. Hell you don't even have to go to the petrol station, you can technically use a bike pump. Just get air into an air tight system and if theres a leak, you'll know about it. Unless you accidentally installed a supercharger.

Pedders lol. They're dodgy as f**k. You walk in there, you will almost ALWAYS walk out with a bill. They quoted me $1300 for some shit on my old car and the exact same number on my current car which has been fine for 2 years since they've checked it. Funny enough all the stuff they pick on is pretty cheap parts wise but always labour intensive, so you know they're making the most money out of you. Its not like paying 1k for suspension set plus install where they make a hundred out of you, this is about 300 in parts and 1k in labour.

Accidentally a supercharger.

Alright lets begin. I can suggest a couple of tuners for you to consider. CRD, Toshi, JEM, JC Racing, DVS JEZ. My main concern for you is that you will be paying for a tune which will potentially not fix the problem you are having. Actually unless there is a problem with your ECU, a power FC will not fix it. Basic stuff, did you gap the spark plugs down? Have you pressure tested the intake? Have you tried running off wastegate pressure(remove connect the wastegate on the turbo directly to a nipple, don't go through anything)? Have you made sure the spark plugs are nice and tight? Now someone above suggested fuel pump. A fuel pump issue will definitely cause issues when coming onto boost, you simply will not be able to climb through the revs, it just hits a wall and lean pops its ass off. My fuel pump failed on me right after I got it tuned(it was also a pretty new 040). Symptoms were excessive lean popping, hard to start and could not ramp the revs up and make power. Straight away without question, I got another fuel pump and fitted it in and the problem subsided, except I now had a tune which was very rich but thats another story. On a car as lightly modded as yours it shouldn't be hard to find the cause of the problem. It should just work. Did you put the spitfires in or did they come with the car? Did you put them in to try fix the miss? Are you absolutely sure they work? Do you know how to tell the difference between a miss and lean pop? Try this, free rev your car in neutral, hold it at say 4krpm. Is it a smooth purr or is the engine dropping revs and popping? If it sounds fine, raise the RPM up to 5k and hold. If it sounds smooth I MIGHT say your fuel pump is alright, my car would not hold a smooth idle. Skylines I have found are very fussy. If my car is not running 13.8 afr on idle, it lean pops. If I could hear the car in the flesh I could tell you if its a miss or if its leaning. If you can come to the conclusion it is leaning, don't drive it and get your self a new fuel pump. Then again I'd consider a new fuel pump anyway. These cars are old and a fuel pump failure could potentially cost you an engine if it goes at the wrong time. A faulty CAS could cause a miss. Damaged coil pack loom could cause a miss. Could be something very small but like I said try confirm its a miss and not a lean. I wouldn't suggest installing the ECU. You don't want to get onto boost with a base map PFC but at the same time, if you have the hand controller, it could provide some diagnostics such as AFR voltages(you could check for drops and sags which may indicate an issue with the AFM), you could check the injector duty cycle. What I'd try to do is find someone with a stock R33 gtst ecu and try it out in your car, eliminate the ECU as a potential cause.

They're really loud. Mine can be heard from 3 streets away. Its tested at 5000rpm or 5500rpm. I was gonna get a mid muffler installed but couldn't bring my self to get that exhaust hacked up so now I swap between a nismo and the hks.

Surely you don't have that much free play to suspect bushes. I have a sound which is just like yours a sequence of ting ting tings. Its my exhaust hitting my tailshaft when going over bumps or fast around turns. I can't see the bushings causing these kinds of noise especially if you don't have other symptoms. Get under there check the bushings out, you should be able to see such damage. Also check the clearances between your exhaust and the body/tailshaft. Also another common cause, depending on your exhaust, it could be the exhaust bumping on the diff housing. My old HKS did this, I glued a chunk of rubber to the exhaust in the exact point of contact. Shaking your exhaust generally wont recreate it, its kind of a trial and error diagnosis. You could just take your car to a suspension shop get them to inspect the whole subframe and bushes see if they have excess play or are cracked etc.

I run that same exhaust. It won't pass its 106db at the counted RPM. Its quiet on idle and cruising but all hell breaks loose when you give it any stick lol. Such an orgasmic sound. Far from hi power silent lol.

Fuel pressure regulator. This is the best and most accurate point to get the signal from as its the closest available before combustion. I also tee of this for my boost gauge but not boost controller.

Another aem uego. Works just fine with the power fc too. Installed in the standard location and still strong and accurate.

Stao quick question. Its really pointless but thought I'd ask. The green XR6T known as toxic has a bent exhaust wheel fin. It produces a sound like a supercharger. Video here. Guy claims it doesn't affect performance. Can you do this on one of your turbo's and achieve this sound or was his by sheer luck lol. I don't care what anyone says but it sounds awesome.

Since my last post here the cost has gone up about 20 cents across the board. Payed 176 per litre at the Caltex on pitt street. Woolworths and Coles should both be removed from the game. I feel this has more to do with their scams at offering 20 cents off fuel when you spend $100 in their stores. Coincidentally that's how much fuel has risen.

f**k that shit is dangerous. See after reading that info about the engineering, I can't understand how exhausts get passed, I can't understand how BOV's get passed, ext wastegates, and once you go bigger turbo and a greater flowing cat, there go emissions when using 98 fuel. Then after all that you can still wind up with a defect.

Well thats pretty f**ken dangerous.

Yeah dont open your turbo. As for shaft play minimal. My old highflow had about if not less than 1mm side to side. Cant recall up and down. You can just cleab out the oil which might be in the front of the turbo induction wheel as it has a tendency to collect there. Just grab new gaskets and slip it back on.

Its almost impossible to have it legal. I promise you they will find something to pick you up on. You can get an exhaust or air filter enclosure or what ever you like engineered but at the end of the day you can be picked on for it. Gonna be tough to keep your Rb26 under 90db, already illegal lol. As said above, you want legal, sell the car and buy a friendly commuter car. You want a tuner, you've already broken the first rule: IF CAR IS TUNER CAR IS DEFECT AND ILLEGAL f**k all the safety features like dual airbag, wide grip tyres, large brakes, well built and designed chassis, improved suspension, strut brace to improve rigid state etc Its funny you can buy a fresh import from overseas, get it complianced for use in Australia, get it registered and then put on the road, drive out your drive way and be fined. Kid you not the stock exhaust on most skylines does not pass the sound test. To make your engine swap legal, you're gonna need to do your brakes. Not sure if the S15 brakes are suitable for an RB26. I remember when in the market, the amount of skylines I saw which were "engineered and 100% legal". Saw one with an external wastegate and atmo bov. Another which exhaust was heard far and beyond. What a piece of paper says and what their rules say conflict.

Is it too late to order anymore? Damn I just saw this, would have picked up a set for my 33.

Man if you're gonna drop the motor into it and drive it til you potentially get caught, I'd take those wheels off. They're just asking for trouble. Even still if you got it engineered, there are numerous other parts which will get you done. If I was in your position, I'd get the job done, make it look as least conspicuous as possible and like you said, drive it around until you do or never get caught. Just don't drive it like you stole it.

Yeah thats fine. Youll run wastegate pressure which is either same or less than your boost controller.

The sound of a timing belt related issue is not metallic.

How do you check something like alignment is there a method of measuring in the engine bay? My hks has massive clearance and the stock exhaust clears fine its just this fat nismo. Wish I could hear how it would sound with the mid muffler removed and a straight pipe welded in place. That would sort the rattling issue. Its been almost 3 years since the clutch was done if the engine was misaligned something should have broken. I feel the reason for contact is the extra vibration passed through the chassis by the coilovers. I also dont know if the lowered height of the car could be affecting it.

Yeah pretty silly thinking its the engine. Symptoms of a misaligned engine are pretty severe. I'm gonna try the local exhaust shop, but they like to talk alot of shit. I go there say xyz they tell me abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvw and miss everything I say. Then the other local exhaust shop will tell me to come back in two weeks coz he is too busy. Maybe I'll get a higher flowing mid muffler and have it welded in a shifted location. This exhaust does feel like abit of a restriction compared to the hks piece. I was suggested by someone to wrap the muffler with a rubber tape just to dampen the sound.

Thats interesting. The speed of the sound does not seem to change with the speed of the engine. Ive also had a few leaky gaskets and none of which ever sounded like that. If you take all the belts off and take it once up the road and back then switch it off you should be fine. Or if you want to be safe you can try find a small belt to run the water pump but thats not gonna happen since you cant tension the belt from the pump. The fact that it does not happen in free rev though tells me its probably not the belt. A squeaky belt which I have had squeaks at idle and in gear. From the sounds I heard I am sure its not speeding up with the engine. Can you confirm this? Gaskets are hit and miss. Where the turbo sits there are potentially 4 gaskers it could be. Mani to gead. Turbo to mani turbo to exhaust or exhaust elbow to rest of the exhaust. Usually a gasket leak will produce the noise when there is only load on the engine but often if the gasket is far gone free revving the car and you can possibly hear the gasket vibrating. Look for obvious visual signs like carbon buildup any where around the exhaust side of things. Then check the intake. To me though it sounds more like a scraping sound. At first I thought maybe your recirculation valve was going haywire.

I don't understand. Is this rule strictly going to permit new lower powered turbo charged vehicles or is this rule going to permit ANY turbo charged vehicle with the power to rate ratio being followed. Stupid rule. It isn't hard to get a VW gold to produce more power. What are the police going to do now, have portable dyno's to check all the P platers cars? Or have them all carry dyno slips. Or make it compulsory to get your car dyno'd at every registration. If these kids are still killing them selves on the roads, as the stats show, giving them vehicles with turbos which do have big capabilities for harnessing power seems silly. They can already drive the R32 VW golf legally and that thing is a 0 - 100 in 5.6 second machine.

My car rarely starts first time. Well it starts then dies. Then starts just fine. Happened when stock and now when modified. I think my issue might be water temo sensor. It happens only when very cold.