SargeRX8

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17526&cat=&page=1 Why do you need a remover? For broken studs or you don't know how to get them out. If you've gotta remove the studs and they're not broken get two nuts, screw them onto the bolt and tighten them onto each other then undo the stud closest to the head. I'd make sure to spray down the studs liberally with anti seize. If you need to remove broken studs, any store, like repco or super cheap and the alike will have them. From what I know, its a shit job.

All you have to do is set your injectors and granny drive to the tuner. You dont need and do not want someone elses tune. You have all the software. Get a usb out there and find the injector settings off the site or google or from the manufacturer. Also why the decent mods on a stock turbo? If you are going bigger later you'll be paying for two tunes.

Trust me you dont want to do this. Around 700cc injectors. If they are running 700cc injectors what if their latency is different and other variables? What if their turbo comes later than yours, you can pop your engine if the timing is too high. If you have a wideband go do a quick tune your self. Set the taget afrs let the car auto tune the afr for you and just use some safe timing. Doesnt seem you know anything about the mods in your car. Dont risk killing your car. It will cost you more than a tune to fix.

Sorry for the bump but just to update. I have refitted the exhaust with all hangers mounted. It really feels like the whole exhaust is pulling to the right side of the car, you can see the hangers aren't hanging, they're being pulled. Since Ive recently fitted tighter suspension on the car, now moderate bumps are causing contact. There is about half a cm of clearance between the top of the muffler and the tailshaft. I can go to an exhaust shop but at the same time I don't think its meant to be sitting like that. Where can I take the car to check if the whole engine is aligned correctly? I did the clutch on my car and to remove the gearbox I had to loosen the engine mounts so if there is even 1 or 2 mm of difference at the front, it will really show at the back. I don't think its meant to pull against the rubber mounts as it is. Its an aftermarket turbo, didn't require a spacer with a 3" dump and a 5" body venom cat. I think the problem can be fixed if I can get the angle of the exhaust inlet and cat outlet changed but this might be a bandaid fix. Are there symptoms to a misaligned engine/gearbox? The car doesn't vibrate at all, but I don't feel I should have to apply force to the exhaust tip to have it sit straighter.

If you're gonna do it I'd consider a new ecu path. Ive got a pfc and im trying to ditch it to go either haltech platinum or adaptronic with the zeitronix sensor.

If you have an air compressor feed some air directly to the wastegate and set your compressor to push 5 7 10 12 psi in increments and just check each level of pressure make sure the wastegate actuator is opening correctly. Unless its internally seizing up it should still open at stock levels. Also I doubt your split dump is helping. I had a split dump for about a week. It was overboosting. When I tested my actuator you could hear the flap hitting the dump on the inside. It looks fine before you bolt it on but I found it was my issue.

Prior to my post this was my thought hahaha

Get the bore diameter, the stroke length(BDC to TDC) then apply bore x bore x stroke x 0.7854.

So then what was the point of using the nismo slave?

Ive got a little issue. Ive noticed a strange ting ting ting sound from underneath the vehicle when taking a turn with more than usual speed(not speeding just a fast turn). The exhaust is moving just 2mm, enough to ting and touch the tailshaft. It took a while to pinpoint the issue. First it sounded like some shit hanging down from the car being dragged behind me, like a sheet of metal scraping on concrete. Then it changed to a hollow sound of a screw driver tapping the exhaust. I looked for anything loose, I looked for contact anywhere and nothing. Finally I pulled off the exhaust and threw on my HKS and took the same turns with the same speed and there is no contact. The noise is gone. Does anyone else have this kind of issue? I am using all hangers for the exhaust bar one because its a f**king pain in the ass to get back in and I'm lazy but if need be I'll do it. Would it be stupid to bash the resonator/muffler where it makes contact with the tailshaft? My HKS was having a similar issue where it would ting and bump the diff housing. I fixed this by wrapping rubber around the exhaust to dampen the sound and impact. I can't do that here because the tailshaft is spinning and it will probably just tear off what ever I put on the muffler. Its not the exhaust piping bumping, rather the big muffler in the middle of the Nismo exhaust. Any ideas on how to proceed with this?

140 151 158 This is for the 7/11 on Parramatta Road at Granville. Filled my 98 there as on the night it was 8c cheaper than BP near my work.

Bump all parts still here, negotiable.

Datalogit is still up for sale.

Have you tried going a little richer?

ECU works for both manual Series 1 and Series 2

Ive got my aem mounted in the stock location. Its been there for about 1.5 years now.

I hit 125 knock the other day full load 4500rpm. I wont induce knock. Ill get it fixed properly. I suggest you do too. Inducing knock is never suggested.

Bump $900 for ECU + HC.

Will throw in a set of bilsteins for free. Fronts arent good rears work just fine.

I don't think its cut, I think the design of the wheel is just different to what you were expecting. My wheel looks like a pyramid shape. Its got some tiny dents on the fins from no idea what went into it. I was going to send it back to Tao to get it fixed and he said he would shave about a mm or what necessary to remove the imperfections. When asked what this would do to performance, he said there might be tiny gains up top.

f**k sounds like a PITA of a job. I can imagine bruised knuckles would come into play here too.

Is that the gasket from runners to head? Shouldn't be hard. I think the rb25 plenum to runners is probably the ugliest job to do. I did it without a guide but there should be something readily available. Google change rb26 plenum gasket or intake gasket.

A brand new genuine starter is expensive isnt it?

This thread has been open since 2011. I'll buy your bootlid with spoiler off you and give you mine to put on your car. We will swap boot latches. Ive got it in white with the stock R33 spoiler, wouldn't mind that one.

You may want to adjust your pricing. A brand new SGS3 is worth between 350 - 500 and second hand sits between 300 - 400. The SGS3 screen is worth more than a damaged SGS. Also a friend of mine had a SGS3 with a faulty screen but responding buttons. The screen was fine, there was a damaged bit of circuitry in the phones display module. New motherboard needed which outweighs the worthiness of repairing the phone.