SargeRX8

Hey all, Also got a set of Tein HR coilovers to sell. Never had an issue with these. Never really used the backs either, I took them off and put something softer on as they were too firm for my liking. Fronts work just fine, they weren't soft or mushy, no noises. They look a little dirty as they came off the car not long ago after being on there for a couple years. Will not separate. Located in Sydney so prefer a local buyer. They also fit the R34 GT I believe, so long they have the eyelets and not the U bracket fitting. Asking $450 and I am quite firm on the price. They have a preload adjustment which can alter height, but I wouldn't fiddle with it. Doesn't sit too low but definitely lower than stock. Gives about a inch and a half of space between the top of the 17" tyre with 45 profile. PM me with questions or leave a reply in here.

I am flexible with pricing but please don't low ball.

Why install a new fuel pump? A new pump will raise pressure and if your narrowband is old and gritty it may not do a great job at leaning out the new mix. Get your self a bleed valve and a tuneable ecu.

Sounds like its coming from the 4/5/6 region of the motor. Is it definitely a mechanical sound(caused by a gasket) because that video sure does a good job of making it sound like electrical noise.

Hey all, Keen to sell the following parts. All the parts are currently still installed in the car, looking to sell them to fund a new path with engine management. I have the following: * Power FC suited to the R33 GTST. Will suit series 1 and series 2 manual cars. Car has a tune but I can wipe it off for the buyer. * Genuine Z32 AFM. Perfect working order. I can't remember if it has the meshes but I think it did. I can check. I can include the wiring but the cable is a little short. It has had the cover popped off as I thought the solder joints went dry, turns out I had a vac leak. * Power FC hand controller * FC logit or what ever you call it, the black box you plug into the PFC to tune it. Comes with CD's and serial to usb adapter. Power FC + hand controller $1000, Power FC has original box and these papers in japanese. Power FC alone $900 Hand Controller $200 Z32 $180 FC Edit black box thing + cd + adapter $250 Located in Sydney. Will prefer to do a exchange but will post via registered or express post, you choose. I will not accept paypal. Bank transfer or cash only. I also have a Greddy Profec B spec 2 Boost controller I'd want to sell so if anyone is interested let me know. I will do little deal if you buy the whole lot, and why not, everything you need to run the PFC plus do your own tuning. Pm me. Cheers

If hs turbo seals were completely blown he could get water and oil in the pipe work.

Internally gated on stock low mount.

It was with a mushi actuator. Check my original dyno sheet its in this thread. Should be linked on page 1.

These truly are the turbos built perfectly for our motors. I usually run 14psi all day every dsy with my ss2. Yesterday I wanted to test if the knock occurs on high boost and if it occurs earlier. I cracked out 18psi. My god this thing is brutal and it was on a slight uphill road. I remember after jez tuned my car we drove around on low boost which felt nice and strong plus better than my old tune. We kicked it into high boost and shit went off. Ive been in a r33 with a gt3582r and I can tell you that the ss2 dominates in every which way. Response, power delivery and driveability. You also dont need to run such high boost to achievr this. My old tune was 10psi and was making 244rwkw. Not many turbos will push that out of an rb.

Do it warm and with another comp tester. Good even results but a wee bit low. I wouldn't fret snd I certainly would not rebuild.

Hey guys im getting a clicking noise when accelerating. I suspect the rear cv joints. Whats the go with these? Replace? Rebuild? Could I keep driving it like this or is it gonna give. Its gotten a little worse over year and abit. it happens when taking off from lights no matter how slow or fast and also when releasing the accelerator then jumping back into it.

I use a greddy profec b spec 2. Pain to setup but I old boost quite well.

20psi going through mine. Are these the plenum to runners? Are yours metal?

I got a set of brand new oem foe $400. They work just fine with 20psi.

They should mix just fine in the tank. Id put the ethanol in the tank then the ulp ontop. I ran 100E10 from united. I got better fuel economy amd my knock which was randomly present in the upper rpm was gone. I will be filling up with that fuel when ever I pass the station.

I replace all gaskets with OEM.

Sounds like a fat exhaust leak. Check for obvious visual signs. You should see black carbon deposits n shit from where the leak is. Since you said you aren't making boost, I'd check for the obvious signs around the manifold to turbo gasket. Then check turbo to dump pipe. Mine made that exact same sound. The metal gasket between the turbo and dump was split from reuse. Don't get those paper kind of gaskets, those two shiny things on the black shit. They are shit, piss weak and don't last. Get the proper metal gasket. I don't think a failing turbo would emit that sound. My car when I got it had surprisingly loose mani to head nuts. I tightened those up quick fast.

Or if you decide to put a larger pump in there, say a 040, rage even harder because you can't find the groove the thing slides into and when you finally do, the pump hits the bottom too far and you gotta take it out again and adjust. Probably the ugliest job Ive done on my car. Those texta markings won't be from factory, but at the same time not necessarily from the wreckers but it probably is the most plausible event. Something tells me a child wasn't locked in the boot. Be warned, you might need a new gasket when putting it back in. A tip I read on here is to throw the old seal into the freezer to prevent it from expanding. If it expands its pretty hard to fit back in without kinking and if it kinks, prepare for a strong smell of fuel in the cabin and potentially a leaky fuel tank when you fill to the brim.

Yeah you've gotta double check that the globe is working properly. Swap the halogen globe with say the handbrake globe and pull the brake up and ensure the light turns on.

Good to know. Would have thought the sensor would have been used rather than two independent components.

Oil pressure seems low. Could be a bad reading. What I'd suggest is try a thicker oil. The rpm hunts because of many reasons but more commonly vacuum leaks or a dirty aac valve. There is a guide here on cleaning the aac. Try change the led back to the normal bulb and see if the light turns off. If it stays on then the fuel level sender might be stuck. You could get your hands in the tank and see if its stuck or try bash it from the outside. 305km to half a tank is amazing. I get almost that from full tank.

And this is the route I shall be following soon. Its absolute perfection.

Why would you need to keep E85 at your house if you have a fuel composition sensor installed? Nothing wrong with a fuel composition sensor in a family car, pretty sure a shit ton of new cars capable of running flex fuel have them.

That oil in the front of the housing is normal, its from the oil breather lines. That shaft play is probably not 2mm. I don't think your turbo is a problem, I think you've still got a leak somewhere. If you damaged the wheel or suspected you popped your wheel, you would be here with severe engine problems because that wheel would have been eaten by your engine.

I installed one on a mates car when he was learning to drive and set it at about 4krpm in his car. He didnt have a tachometer so it was beneficial as an aid. It was ripped out about a month later.