SargeRX8

What if you connect the exhaust back to your intake on the na car with the z32. Effectively the engine is a turbo as it compresses stuff and the exhaust gasses are pressurised so if he did this hes running boost.l and will need the z32.

My car was hard to start then impossible to start. Hows your fuel pump? I can pull off a vac line and my car will still start. Start ya bastard wont help if theres a vac leak but will help if your car is struggling to get fuel.

Buy a cheap ass shift light kit. Install it behind the dash then run a length of wires to the cluster to power the led after you've drilled and fitted one in.

When my car used.to hit r n r the power loss was obvious but the sound did not change. Sounds like a gasket leak.

This interests me as my car sometimes needs a couple of goes to get into reverse. It feels like its in but its not. I know my master is probably the problem but often if a problem isnt enough of a problem, im a lazy lazy man.

Decat on my first skyline and in my new one an assortment of shit tools in the boot and some random wires under the passenger seat. Also found out from a mate who was drivig behind me that I had the skyline on the rear of the r33 lighting up which was cool. Also found out I had an awesome set of front and rear speakers.

Also I haven't tries high boost in quite.

Not necessarily after a hot run. I had the car parkes for about 30 mins after a 15 min drive. Gave it a squirt and the flashing light took away from the fun. E85 or flex fueol is where im heading. Wmi is just another thing that could potentially go wrong. Introducing another independant system would scare me lol. I think the flex fuel is the way to go. I tried that octane 100 with 5 or 10% ethanol content and it gave me a slightly better fuel consumption rate and I recall not a single ping event on that fuel. Get ready jez ill be heading up your way soon.

Dash lights flash 3 times and when I see that happen thats when I remember to check the hand controller when I park at home. Usually the number is between 85 - 99. Never had a chance to pickup knock in the datalogit.

Damn, all the easily changeable fuel lines in my have been changed. How much effort it is to change both lines to/from the tank to/from the engine? We accidentally ran E10 fuel in our old boat and I kid you not after a few hours use, the engine stalled. The amount of black shit caught in the carbies was awesome.

Its got some throttle enrichment in there and when I do quick stabs at the throttle the afr richen up abit. Its not the stabs which cause the det, seems I can push the car from 2000 - 6000rpm but it gets into a danger zone at around 6400 rpm. Yeah Ive been speaking to him, about it. I intend on selling off the current ECU and setup and going with an adaptronic or Haltech plugin. It does seem silly trying to induce knocking especially when its just for logging sake and I know I can't do anything to try fix it. On a side note, anyone interested in a Z32, PFC, hand controller, greddy profec b sii and the fc edit Can't afford the new ecu and tune otherwise.

Can't hear anything from the engine bay over the exhaust, the windows up doesn't help. Another thing that doesn't help is the fact that I cant make it happen every time. I can go to the same stretch of road where Ive pinged before, use the same gear, same start speed, same throttle and then no pinging. Its also hard to keep an eye on the AFR but on boost it goes down to about 12 and into the 11's. Ive tried to log it with the laptop but when I put the laptop down in the passenger seat and I drive over a bump in the road the USB cable comes jiggles and I lose connection. Really need someone in the passenger seat and a private stretch of road so I can test it out. Ive watched videos describing what ping would sound like. Some people say its the sound of metal chains dragging behind the car while some would bang a hammer on a piston and say that is what you will hear. Not sure what to make of it. Its not the easiest thing to fang second to redline and listen for ping in a skyline lol.

Yeah it does look abit weird hence why I went to jez to touch it up and thats the best we could do in a short time. You should see the previous tune which cost me too much. Fuel pressure im not sure of. Its got a 1 year old 040 in there running off standard regulator. It does look high especially for 19 psi high boost. Thats why I was interested to see this guy running high timing with no issues.

Yeah I thought so, Ive read plenty of people using these injectors with ethanol fuel. Just when you hear the bad shit, it sticks much better and I gotta clarify. You think 740's are big enough for flex fuel? Whats this black rail? Link me. Just checked out those injectors, hell I think I could sell the nismos, buy those and have change.

I pulled about 3 to 4 degrees out of everything above 5krpm mid to high load, I thought I creased it out as it didn't ping for about a week but today it reared its head again. I'll upload a dump of the original tune here so you can glance over it.

I need to get my car looked at, its pinging at the end of the rev table around 6500 - 7000rpm. Its on actuator pressure to, about 14 - 15.5 psi. Has me stumped. I can't check what part of the ignition table it pings at because it doesn't always do it. I guesstimate between the 6400 rpm to 7000 rpm @ 6500 - 8678 load in the pfc. Sits on about 20 - 21 degrees in those rows. High boost is brutal power but I can't risk ever using it incase the pinging becomes dangerous. Really need to get my tune redone but before this I need to decide if my ECU is gonna change or not. Power FC to Adaptronic Select? Still want to unleash the potential 300kw the ss2 has.

Hey all I found some info on some american nissan website and there are a few posts which say ethanol will cause nismo injectors or any pintle style injector to fail rapidly. This was the only website which turned such result. Whats the go behind this? I intended to run a new ecu with flex fuel in my car down the track but this is information which could delay this.

Didn't the factory item have a oil warmer there? Ive got a 25det r33 and it looks nothing like that.

You can just remove and replace but if you are at tdc you will know exactly where you are and if something moved you will know exactly where you should be. I really wouldn't do it if you arent at tdc. Think about it if you turn your cam gear even 1 degree how are you going to know? Head off you can turn the cam freely. Head on just turn it back or forward to the dot not all the way around.

Everything is keyed to fit in only one way. If all the marks are lined up on the cams and your crank is lined up then everything will be lined up. If the head is already off just line it up before you slap it back on. I cant really understand what you are trying to say in regard to the clockwise anti clockwise but if you took the belt off and fudged a cam by turning it, you can't turn that cam all the way around to line it up. I'd say it should be fine just to dial it back a couple mm which ever way you need to go. Dont hold me to this but I think its right.

An rb25 and 26 and the jz motors are probably then only motors that do justice to a cannon. Ive seen more lancers where I live with cannon exhausts than skylines. They also have jdm stickers. Ive noticed little to no difference between my hks exhaust and my nismo big oval muffler exhaust. But the sound of the hks is truly something to lo and behold. I think the worst cars to have a cannon are your hondas. They sound like absolute shit. I honestly put my windows up when driving near one.

Let me know how you go with the procedure

2nd hand engine. Much cheaper and so long you don't find a dud you'll be sweet.

I did. One of my sensors was ALWAYS reading knock between 0 - 20 non stop never a flat line. Pulled off the wire, trimmed it and reattached it and the problem went. I warn you though, it is an absolute flamin mongrel of a f**k to reach. I kid you not, Ive done my clutch, Ive done my timing belt, Ive done my turbo and the worst out of everything was trying to get to the sensor and unplug the wire. If its a code error you might have a faulty sensor. I suggest if you recently did your belt, pull it apart and ensure everything is lined up. One tooth won't cause engine damage, usually, but it will hinder performance terribly. Valves will not be truly sealed when it should be. I hope your sensor isn't damaged. You could simplify the task greatly if you pull out the plenum and runners. Its a shit job. From what I know, you CAN run on one sensor. Try unplug one, again good luck, and see how it goes. You gotta squeeze the connector and pull out.

Awesome guys cheers for the input. I'll pull out the seat tomorrow and have a look around. The problem is definitely under the seat. Wasn't working today so I stuck my hands under had a fiddle around and it worked then went out again. Does the passenger seat have an input or only driver?