SargeRX8

I had this. I put up it until my car got written off. When I took the engine out the rubber mount on one side was cracked. Im certain it was the mount on the engine because the gearbox had a brand new mount and the ones on the diff and subframe were pretty solid when o got them checked.

If you hear air gushing out of the exhaust you know you have an exhaust valve issue, if you hear air gushing out of the pod filter you have an intake valve leak, if you hear air gushing out through your dip stick or it pops out, then the seals or piston are at fault as air is getting past them and pushing the dipstick out. If the air is leaking from a leak down test where is it going? Where ever the problem is, that is where the air will be coming out from. Its pretty simple.

Turn it about 2 to 3 times and it will line up. Won't line up every time around. I think. I did it during my timing belt took a few turns to line it all up.

I think his question is, with the information hes been told, should he run a restrictor if the CHRA already has a restrictor built in which if there are two restrictors in place could choke the turbo of oil and if there is no restrictor in the CHRA then he could flood it with oil. I don't think rebuilding a turbo requires a change of the CHRA, usually bearings, wheels and shaft. If that is the case, continue using it as you were before.

Maybe you could be hopeful, somewhat, and hope for a slightly damaged head gasket in cylinder 6. Before pulling it apart you could do a leak down test. That will tell you if its the head or your piston and if it is the head, is it the intake or exhaust valve.

Hey all, Since I bought the car this light was not lighting up. Then, out of no where, it started working. Now its stopped. Ive fiddled around and can't seem to find what is stopping it from working. Anybody else have this light not working? Is it a simple system to diagnose? I'm assuming its just a switch in the seatbelt buckle connected to the dash. No time to pull apart the seat now but always good to see if this is a common fault with a common solution.

You aren't wrong with that statement. Are all the EGT's the same? My main concern about putting it in the collector is if the thing ever snapped and my turbo had to eat it. Another concern which I thought of, and read on this site I think, is that the material the dump is made of(mine is a stock dump so cast iron) and the material of the heat probe have different expansion properties and this guy said that when his car heated up, the probe was coming loose. What should be the upper limit temps to be seeing? From what Ive read 850c is generally the good limit to stay at or below.

If money and time are tight, do as I suggested. Drive the car without boosting until money and time aren't a constraint. I did this. Avoid doing things inbetween like buying that aem ecu. A power FC for the R33 with injectors will cost you about 1200 at most, you could probably get it a little less too. If you bought that AEM thing you're still gonna need to tune it up and chances are its gonna cost you more for the tune than that unit. Save up, drive it lightly, then do it once and do it right. At the same time I don't know anything about that AEM unit so don't hold me to the info above. If you go brand new injectors say 555cc or 740cc nissan injectors its gonna cost about 400 - 700 for the injectors. If you can get a flow tested second hand set. I don't know what turbo you have but you MIGHT be able to get away with stock injectors if you buy a PFC and get a tune done. The stock injectors could be good for about 220rwkw but you would want to keep an eagle eye on the injector duty and make sure they're not maxing out.

I'd be interested to see how your ignition table comes out. I think tuning the AFR to your targets is far simpler than tuning the ignition table. Ive got WARI installed(I don't have the ECU, just playing with the software) and the base map for an R33 looks a little heavy on the retard side. I'm deciding either between the adaptronic select or a haltech platinum pro. It would be awesome if I could tune it my self but the things that can go wrong if the ignition table isn't setup right isn't appealing. Even on cruise, Ive read if the ignition table is too retard you increase combustion temps. I think for any home tuner its probably worth while to get a EGT sensor installed. I read someone here done back to back installs with a EGT sensor inside the collector housing of the mani and another one post turbo and the temperature change was 40 - 50 degrees less. Its a change but if you set a good upper limit and stay about 100 degrees under that, it should be safe. Guilt toy what are your target AFR's on standard 98 fuel? What are your tips for a novice home tuner on working with the ignition table. Would you start with the standard base tune and work around that? If you have another tune, from a PFC for example, could you use that as a reference for the ignition map?

I really wouldn't suggest you go anywhere in the boost range. I drove my car for about a month with a larger turbo. Its not hard. Get a proper tune. 10psi on your larger turbo could effectively be double the air flow of the stock turbo. Sure you can drive in r and r but its gonna drive like shit and the extra fuel and retarded timing will wear out your cat a little quicker. Use it to get from point a to b until you can get injectors and a tune.

Is it leaking fluids? Ask them to show you the comp test results. I don't think a sitting engine for a few weeks coild cause it to seize. Have you looked for oil in water or water in oil? A comp test is a pretty solid test but id ask for results or watch them redo the test.

I had a thread about this. Still nees to buy the gasket kit. Should I go genuine or aftermarket? Very easy job to do imo.

The way you've explained wasted spark is exactly right. It fires two coils with one signal/driver. The cylinders are at exact opposite position to each other. Its interesting that your spark wasn't happy. It shouldn't be the case. Technically, on paper, this system should work, the only difference is the "wasted" spark is called wasted simply because it is just that, a waste. Its an extra fire of the coil which is absolutely not necessary. So after a drive, if you've done 100000 sparks on each individual cylinder in a sequential setup, an equiv wasted spark would have done 100000 sparks with an extra 100000 wasted sparks. What would be really interesting is the cause of your problem. If you've tried another select ECU and the problem is still evident, I'd wanna figure it out just for the sake of it. Maybe, as you said, the wiring is too old and can't deliver a strong enough spark through the old wiring. Maybe the wires are corroded, maybe damaged, who knows. But a split signal or interference from an outside source could be enough to cause the signal to fire the spark plugs to be lost and a misfire occurs. All the ECU does is send a signal to two coils instead of one. Is that signal reaching its destination? Is there enough voltage in the car to be firing two coils at the same time? There seems to be a loss in power(electric). If the signal is being received(can potentially be verified with a timing light on each coil) then something tells me the car is failing to produce enough volts; provide high enough current; transfer enough current/volts to fire off the spark. If the ECU is not at fault, the signal will be sent to fire will be sent. I think my understanding is correct and this would be something I'd be interested in testing out and I think Jez is more than capable of cracking this one. Keep up posted and glad to hear the problem is gone. Edit: The fact that it occurs under load leads me to believe that both sparks are receiving the correct signal but the spark it self is simply not strong enough to stay on. If you guys are bothered to tinker around, maybe hook up a second battery to up the current. Maybe, is possible, give direct power to the coils and see if it can deliver a strong spark. A timing light hooked up to the coil, load up the boost and see if the timing light is picking up the signal.

Is that a faulty ECU? Was was it the plug in or a wire in ECU?

Could you elaborate? What's the issue? What were you expecting and what are you lacking?

The screw driver to the ear is a really good method at pinpointing sound.

I think I'm gonna buy this ECU. This ECU has everything I need that the PFC is too old for. Ive read some quality information about VE tuning and it seems the go. The flex fuel support is awesome too.

As others have said the clicking sounds like a spark arcing where it shouldn't be. You can pull out spark plugs while the engine hunts to see which spark plug has no effect to the hunting. It could be a damaged coil which the spark is leaking from. Are you sure you're not hearing the injectors pulsing? If the engine hunts, from another cause, the rpm slows down and so does the injector cycle which what you *may* be hearing is your injectors opening and shutting. Again though, seems you've narrowed it down to cylinder 1 and 2 so what I'd do is swap cylinder 1 and 2 coils to 5 and 6 and see if the clicking moves to the back. Inspect the plugs, change if necessary and go from there. Hmm also read how you said its worse when its cold. Usually if its a coil related issue the problem is more prominent when the engine is warm.

Hi frank can you pm me your mobile number? I call shotgun on the airbox can pickup.

Whack the stock BOV on, pipe it up, then blank it off. Gonna be some effort to fit the stock airbox in with that turbo. I'm gonna assume its got a big intake pipe with a pod on the end. I'd say just make a box out of metal and paint it black. The stock airbox is probably the last concern on any modified skyline drivers mind.

Sounds like you had air in the system.

I recall an older oil referred to as smurfs blood because it was blue. No idea which oil that was but it was in my car prior to my first oil change. It was good shit but couldn't find it so I went with the VMX stuff from castrol and it does pretty well. The shop I get my juice from doesn't have very many options. You could go with a really premium oil and see how it goes. The Nulon additive should have helped.

I suppose you could. Its a track car so go for it. Also remove the bulb from the cluster or it will keep displaying the airbag warning. Unplug it see how it responds, then pull it out. Weight reduction!

I'd say start with the easy stuff. You've did the fluid change, what I would also do it get some nulon gearbox additive in there two. I think two tubes suits the RB box. I'd then do the bleeding of the clutch system and if I were you, Id get a braided line from the master to the slave and bypass the crap in between. Makes bleeding alot easier and you eliminate the other unnecessary components(don't hold me to this but I believe they're not needed). After you've done all this and if everything is still the same, I'd say its out of your hands. Unless your master or slave are faulty and not throwing the clutch out far enough. My car is abit tough to get into first and reverse at times but definitely not what you are experiencing. Two things you can do, drive it until it gives up or get it pulled apart and rebuilt. I really wouldn't rebuild it, whats happening sounds like a nuisance but wouldn't be enough for me to justify a build.

As above its airbags cm.